High boost TVS guys in here please

c6zhombre

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Damn, that was a leap of faith to hog off that much material! The sensor does look in a much better spot. I'm still on the fence that you're going to see ~20 degree lower temps and see plunging temps on a hit....but I'm definitely subbing for results! Good luck with it.
 

SVT_Troy

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Guys if this doesn’t work and you did want to raise it back up all you would need to do is machine a spacer to raise it back up.

This is a good find and hope that it does yield more accurate readings. If so mine will be coming right off and I’ll Mill it down as well.


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c6zhombre

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Guys if this doesn’t work and you did want to raise it back up all you would need to do is machine a spacer to raise it back up.

This is a good find and hope that it does yield more accurate readings. If so mine will be coming right off and I’ll Mill it down as well.


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You can't really get the paste back into the tube once it's done.....I'm wondering about the structural rigidity that's lost taking that material off. The blowers are under a lot of stress and heat especially spinning them hard. Maybe it's a non factor, I don't know.

What would have been scenario A is somehow get a longer, extended sensor...but I guess that's out of the question.
 

mnetwork

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You can't really get the paste back into the tube once it's done.....I'm wondering about the structural rigidity that's lost taking that material off. The blowers are under a lot of stress and heat especially spinning them hard. Maybe it's a non factor, I don't know.

What would have been scenario A is somehow get a longer, extended sensor...but I guess that's out of the question.

There is no flex going on at this part of the motor, so I'm pretty sure the missing material is a non-issue. If this works I really don't think I want to pull the blower just for this. I'll be going the sensor modification method myself. If the blower was already off the car I would 100% bring it to a machine shop for this.
 

Soap

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You guys, there is ZERO risk in doing what I did. No structural loss or anything. All I did was remove the boss that the sensor sat on. The thickness of the mounting plate for the blower was untouched. It was not a risky move at all. If it works great, if not.....who cares. I do not have to put the sensor back where it was.

--Joe
 
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SVTdreamin04

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So, what is the verdict on this? I was hoping to hear some feedback on how this worked out.


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Soap

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Again sorry for the delay, I wanted to wait until I had a good comparison before posting any results. I went to the track today and it was unseasonably warm (74* today) so it was a good test. Even with the car fully heat soaked from sitting in the staging lanes, my IAT2's are only increasing 8-10* on a full pass (98*-108*) with no ice in the intercooler.

While remote tuning with the sensor in the OEM location my IAT2's were increasing 15-20* on a 60-100mph blast. After dropping the sensor down, the same short blast my IAT2 only went up 4*. I have probably a dozen datalogs like this so I am fairly confident with the results. This was all done on the same tune with no other changes to the car except the sensor location.

Attached is a datalog for a visual of the data from 0-135mph.
First pass.JPG


--Joe
 
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Four Door SVT

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Again sorry for the delay, I wanted to wait until I had a good comparison before posting any results. I went to the track today and it was unseasonably warm (74* today) so it was a good test. Even with the car fully heat soaked from sitting in the staging lanes, my IAT2's are only increasing 8-10* on a full pass (98*-108*) with no ice in the intercooler.

While remote tuning with the sensor in the OEM location my IAT2's were increasing 15-20* on a 60-100mph blast. After dropping the sensor down, the same short blast my IAT2 only went up 4*. I have probably a dozen datalogs like this so I am fairly confident with the results. This was all done on the same tune with no other changes to the car except the sensor location.

Attached is a datalog for a visual of the data from 0-135mph.
View attachment 1440042

--Joe

Very happy this was discovered prior to installing the TVS that’s on the bench. Looks flush with the bolt flange. I’m looking at having this done. Are you interested in me sending this one to you?
 

Soap

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By no means is this a must do modification, there is no harm in leaving the sensor in the OEM location. But if you have the blower off and want accurate readings it certainly is worth it IMO.

--Joe
 

Four Door SVT

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I think VMP should come up with a solution, recall service bulletin. Many people paid for a tune that could have been held back due to this oversight.
 

94slowbra1

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Good to see the results. Also I'm glad to see you i/c mods are working as advertised, I'm going to do Justin's kit soon too.
When I do his set up and I have the blower off I will probably mill the sensor location down like you so I can have a more accurate reading. Like you said it's not necessary but i like to know whats going on. Does piss me off a little that it was a known issue and was designed that way anyway.
Glad you got it all figured out. Thanks for spearheading this!
 

TheFleshRocket

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Is there any possibility that an IAT2 sensor from a different vehicle might have a longer tip so it sits farther into the air flow, so those of us who've already installed our TVSes don't have to pull them and have them milled? It's a long shot, I know..
 

Bdubbs

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Unless I'm missing something here, I have no reason to even worry if my iat2 is off by a few degrees. I run e85 99% of the time, and timing doesn't start getting pulled until 180*. And for the record the highest I've seen mine was 133-135.
 

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