How beneficial is an aftermarket K-member?

[NVR2L8]

Update on UPR K Member.

I contacted UPR today to clarify the difference between the standard K Member, and the "road racing" version that I mentioned in my earlier post.

I ordered and am preparing to install the UPR K Member on my '07 GT500. There is only one version of this K Member, the one that is shown on their web site.

In an earlier version of the UPR K Member, there were two different versions.

Sorry for the confusion on my part, but I have been assured by UPR that the new K Member will perform well in a road racing application.

 

[Sirl]

No problem.
I'm sure you will be fine with it.

 

[WutApex]

Nice!

I'm waiting for install on:

MM TA w/H&R Super Race rears
MM full length SFC (removing short Steeda SFC)
Solid steering shaft
Alum Rack bushings

After that, I'm done with the suspension.....at least for my current skill level.

I think I only have brake ducts and a better seat left to do.




oh yeah, and boxing the radiator, and extending air deflector, and oil separator and...

damn.:lol:

 

[03 DSG Snake]

yup, got a solid steering shaft in the garage as well:thumbsup: I'm telling you, I have WAY TOO MUCH money in this damn car now oke: But I just love the thing:beer:

I'm doing like you now. Waiting on K-Member, and forward offset delrin arms to go in. The rest is all MM. :bash:

 

[a1yola]

Nice!

I'm waiting for install on:

MM TA w/H&R Super Race rears
MM full length SFC (removing short Steeda SFC)
Solid steering shaft
Alum Rack bushings

After that, I'm done with the suspension.....at least for my current skill level.

I think I only have brake ducts and a better seat left to do.




oh yeah, and boxing the radiator, and extending air deflector, and oil separator and...

damn.:lol:

Damnit...you just had to go and remind me about brake ducts didn't you!:bash:

If you need ideas on an easy and cheap way of boxing your radiator let me know. I did this last season along with a larger air dam and it's worked/held up great!

 

[03 DSG Snake]

Damnit...you just had to go and remind me about brake ducts didn't you!:bash:

If you need ideas on an easy and cheap way of boxing your radiator let me know. I did this last season along with a larger air dam and it's worked/held up great!

I'm interested. :burnout:

 

[a1yola]

I'm interested. :burnout:

Check out my old posts....
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...52-best-ways-keep-98-cobra-engine-cool-3.html

 

[Sirl]

I gotta do that, been so lazy about it.

 

[gcassidy]

I just posted this somewhere else, but maybe it makes more sense here.
A friend posted this on FB, and I thought it was a good shot showing a boxed in radiator along with where to mount a tow hook and brake ducts.
Ignore that pimped-out car in the background.

 

[Sirl]

Homestead

Oh, and if you are in need of a tow hook, check these guys out I hear they are awesomely nice guys!

www.racecartowhook.com (selfish plug)

 

[a1yola]

Greg, that example is awesome but it's setup for a real race car. Looks like they chopped off the bumper and some other stuff to make that setup.

 

[WutApex]

I think I like a1yola's method...cheap, effective and removable, if need be. I am concerned about the bottom sheet metal though...I cringe at making holes in my car

 

[a1yola]

I think I like a1yola's method...cheap, effective and removable, if need be. I am concerned about the bottom sheet metal though...I cringe at making holes in my car

I didnt make any holes at the bottom. The rivets are there to hold the sheet metal together, but its connected to the radiator support by using the holes that were there for the stock air dam.

 

[gcassidy]

Greg, that example is awesome but it's setup for a real race car. Looks like they chopped off the bumper and some other stuff to make that setup.

Yeah, I know. But it could be done and keep the original bumper intact, but it would be a bunch of work.
I more thought it was a good shot showing the concepts out in the open.
If I had that car, I'd be entering AI at VIR next month.

 

[Sharad]

I'm wondering if you guys can shed some light on aftermarket k-members, ie: MM or Griggs. Aside from weight savings, how beneficial would it be to get a tubular K? I have MM offset front control arms to get better front end geometry and an MM k-member brace for extra strength. Would handling improve with an MM k-member? Pros/cons? Thanks!

anyone??? I'm sure someone may know the "real" benefits of an aftermarket K-member

"how beneficial" is a subjective question. As someone already mentioned, we're essentially talking about a tenth of a second here, and a tenth there. But to answer your questions, yes, handling would be improved. The k-members offer weight savings, increased clearance in the engine compartment, and in the case of the offset MM/Griggs setups, more weight on the rear tires.

The only "cons" I can think of are purchase price and the fact that some classes don't allow them.

any difference between the MM/griggs K-member and the UPR version?? Good/bad??

MM/Griggs are heavier because they have more material, and they are made with mild steel. UPR's k-member is tubular chrome-moly which is stronger and lighter than mild steel, given equal tubing diameter and wall thickness.

Griggs and MM have extra material made to handle the load of hard cornering.. UPR is pretty much just for drag racing

This is a common misconception, propagated primarily by the fact that more people drag race on UPR's k-member than those who roadrace on them. With regard to "the load of hard cornering", UPR has literally hundreds and hundreds of tubular k-members out there being drag raced, roadraced, and daily driven on the street. There has not been a single failure.

I respectfully disagree. I have a UPR K Member, the "road racing" version, which has some extra bracing. The UPR weighs 18 lbs., which is 26 lbs. less than the 44 lb. stock K member on the GT500. I am getting ready to install, so I will find out how it performs this spring.

The UPR K Member also can lower the motor (and roll center), and also provides more room for long tube headers.

:beer:

We need to switch gears for a moment here because you're talking about the S197 version, and I believe the OP is talking about the 79-04 k-member. However, you are correct in stating that UPR's S197 k-member is 26lbs lighter than stock, has quite a bit more engine clearance, and it can lower the engine 1/2" (with the supplied engine mounts).

Nothing against the UPR piece.
I've met with Jeremy over there, and for a small fee, they will weld in extra gussets or bracing. I was almost sold on it, but I ended up going with MM start to finish. Much prefer to go with a complete kit, as in the Grip Box.

This is true. Because they are welded and powder coated right here in South Florida (as opposed to overseas), UPR is able to alter a k-member and/or its color to suit an individual customer's needs.

Nothing at my fingertips, but I can take a pic and post it up in the next day or two.

One other UPR benefit is that by lowering the motor there is more room for a larger S/C under the hood.

:beer:

S197:

Fox:

I had a UPR K member on my Terminator that I ran in HPDE. I spoke with UPR before I purchased it and told them my intentions and concerns. They had no problem standing behind their product and I never had any issues. It is still on the car after tracking with it for 2 years.

Thanks for the positive review. And yes, UPR k-members are covered by a Lifetime Guarantee, regardless of their intended use.

Update on UPR K Member.

I contacted UPR today to clarify the difference between the standard K Member, and the "road racing" version that I mentioned in my earlier post.

I ordered and am preparing to install the UPR K Member on my '07 GT500. There is only one version of this K Member, the one that is shown on their web site.

In an earlier version of the UPR K Member, there were two different versions.

Sorry for the confusion on my part, but I have been assured by UPR that the new K Member will perform well in a road racing application.

It should be noted that UPR Products are continually track-tested, and are occasionally tweaked to improve them based on feedback from in-house testing and feedback from the end-users. I believe our Fox k-member is on its fourth design, and the S197 went through a couple of pre-production design phases.


FULL DISCLOSURE: I work for UPR Products, but I'm not here selling. I've been a long-time lurker here on SVTP, I just haven't posted very much. Someone requested our input on this thread, so we obliged.


Regarding Brake Ducts-

This is a very important part of the total package. (in HPDEs) I recently conducted some testing at Sebring International Raceway in my 2006 GT and I was blown away by how much the heat affected my braking, even with Hawk pads/rotors and Motul fluid. In my opinion, brake cooling ducts are essential for a car that will see regular use in HPDEs.



Regarding the Radiator Box-

This is another interesting topic. I just purchased a very high-dollar radiator/trans cooler setup from Fluidyne, and Gary Johnson was absolutely adamant that I MUST fabricate ducting to seal off the front end and direct all of the incoming air into the radiator in order to get the most cooling. This is on a high horsepower True Street car, but the same idea applies to HPDEs. The more air you direct over the radiator, the more efficiently it will operate.

 

[KILRSVT]

"how beneficial" is a subjective question. As someone already mentioned, we're essentially talking about a tenth of a second here, and a tenth there. But to answer your questions, yes, handling would be improved. The k-members offer weight savings, increased clearance in the engine compartment, and in the case of the offset MM/Griggs setups, more weight on the rear tires.

The only "cons" I can think of are purchase price and the fact that some classes don't allow them.




MM/Griggs are heavier because they have more material, and they are made with mild steel. UPR's k-member is tubular chrome-moly which is stronger and lighter than mild steel, given equal tubing diameter and wall thickness.




This is a common misconception, propagated primarily by the fact that more people drag race on UPR's k-member than those who roadrace on them. With regard to "the load of hard cornering", UPR has literally hundreds and hundreds of tubular k-members out there being drag raced, roadraced, and daily driven on the street. There has not been a single failure.




We need to switch gears for a moment here because you're talking about the S197 version, and I believe the OP is talking about the 79-04 k-member. However, you are correct in stating that UPR's S197 k-member is 26lbs lighter than stock, has quite a bit more engine clearance, and it can lower the engine 1/2" (with the supplied engine mounts).




This is true. Because they are welded and powder coated right here in South Florida (as opposed to overseas), UPR is able to alter a k-member and/or its color to suit an individual customer's needs.




S197:

Fox:

Thanks for the positive review. And yes, UPR k-members are covered by a Lifetime Guarantee, regardless of their intended use.




It should be noted that UPR Products are continually track-tested, and are occasionally tweaked to improve them based on feedback from in-house testing and feedback from the end-users. I believe our Fox k-member is on its fourth design, and the S197 went through a couple of pre-production design phases.


FULL DISCLOSURE: I work for UPR Products, but I'm not here selling. I've been a long-time lurker here on SVTP, I just haven't posted very much. Someone requested our input on this thread, so we obliged.


Regarding Brake Ducts-

This is a very important part of the total package. (in HPDEs) I recently conducted some testing at Sebring International Raceway in my 2006 GT and I was blown away by how much the heat affected my braking, even with Hawk pads/rotors and Motul fluid. In my opinion, brake cooling ducts are essential for a car that will see regular use in HPDEs.



Regarding the Radiator Box-

This is another interesting topic. I just purchased a very high-dollar radiator/trans cooler setup from Fluidyne, and Gary Johnson was absolutely adamant that I MUST fabricate ducting to seal off the front end and direct all of the incoming air into the radiator in order to get the most cooling. This is on a high horsepower True Street car, but the same idea applies to HPDEs. The more air you direct over the radiator, the more efficiently it will operate.

Does the k member for the sn95 mustang move the front end 3/4 forward ??also do need an oil filter relocation kit for the 4 valve motors ??