How many lbs of air in my drag radials?

Todd

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How many lbs of air should i put in my drag radials they are 275/50 and Should i burn them before hand in water or no water? Thanks.
 

SVT X 2

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I run mine 15 lbs. at the track and about 28 lbs. on the street.
Do a quick burnout in the waterbox and then stage, no dry hops.

P.S. I run Nitto's 275/40-17's
 

KS Cobra

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I run 17psi in my nitto's at the track and 32 on the street. I don't do a burn out in the water box. I do mine after the box, and let the tires get some smoke come out of them before I stage.

ps 275/40/17 nitto drags
 

Blue03Cobra

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I would avoid the waterbox if you are running tires with ANY tread grooves (i.e., other than true slicks). The rationale is that water can remain within the grooves (even after a "burnout") and can hurt traction off and down the line...
 

SVT X 2

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Originally posted by Blue98Cobra
I would avoid the waterbox if you are running tires with ANY tread grooves (i.e., other than true slicks). The rationale is that water can remain within the grooves (even after a "burnout") and can hurt traction off and down the line...

True... but I'd say it also depends on track conditions and how generous the track is (or isn't) with the VHT or other traction additive.
 

Cobrakid

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See if you believe this........it's true.

I run my 275/40/17s at 29 street & 17 at the track.

Back down near water and burn it in 2nd gear for about 4 secs.

I pull consistent 1.63-1.69 60fts and even pulled a 1.59 last year.

Granted I have the sway bar off, Jamex front springs, MAC boxed
control arms, poly bushings & 430 crank hp. 380 rear wheel hp.

I preload the clutch and ride it out super quick.

I am getting ready to order the 315/35s for this year, mainly for
the look.

Goodluck............

I have even pulled 1.7-1.8s on $60 bobo reg radials with other cars.
 

Cobrakid

prefers quick, over fast!
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You are actually preloading the clutch and the car.

When you get ready to leave, on the starting line,
ease up on the clutch pedal ever so slightly until you
feel the car/clutch tighten up. This is where you want to
start riding it.

This is easier on parts (rears, trannys etc) and it keeps
you from shocking the tires from the sudden release
of the driveline components. (takes up the slack)

This works good with slicks also, even if you sort of
pop the clutch off the line. It really smooths things out.

I have used this techniques for over 8 years and it works on
anything with a clutch. Motorcycles also benefit from this
type of starting line procedure.

You just have to get your vehicle to leave between a
burn & a bog, once you get the hang of it, it is almost like
second nature and it is real useful in street racing also.

On the street (or the track) it might not feel as awesome as
slamming the clutch at 4000, but when you get your car
smoothly out of the hole quicker with the other person
watching, they have a tendency to mat the gas and go
up in smoke.

I have beaten several cars that were actually quicker than mine
but can't get the power to the pavement.

Goodluck and give it a shot.....:burnout:
 

Cobrakid

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Yes, when you get ready on the line.....
ease your left foot up very very slowly until you feel the
car want to move, stop... You Are Now Preloaded.........
 

SVT X 2

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And when you get to that point, do you just snap the clutch out on launch?

On a side question... what do the new Hawks have for hp?
 

Cobrakid

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With slicks, you can sort of pop it.

With street tires, I just ride it out real quick.

The Firehawk comes factory rated at 345hp, 20+ than the WS6.

It is supposed to run 12.9s from the factory---automatic.

I raced a friend who runs 12.5s@107 on slicks.

He was on street tires, but he is a good driver, so I would say
he runs at least 13.0s on the street....at least.

I beat him by 2 full cars, 3 times in a row.

Then from a roll we were door handle to door handle.

He thought I would run at least 12.9s, so I am happy.

Later
 

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