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How to fix an un-level window (includes how to on removing trim)

Discussion in 'How-To' started by Finaltheorem47, Oct 4, 2008.

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  1. Finaltheorem47

    Finaltheorem47 I'm a Lead Farmer Established Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2008
    Location:
    Northern Virginia
    Hi guys, first how to, tried to include as much details and information as I could. Sorry about my camera, it doesn't like taking pictures of anything closer than 4ft, everything comes out blurry.

    Notice how my glass here is up too high and I’m having trouble closing it as it snags the roof. I’m surprised water hasn’t gotten in yet actually.
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    1. To fix this, you have to take off your Doors Trim Panel.
    First you will need some tools:
    - Socket Set
    - Phillips head screw driver
    - Flat head screw driver
    - Clean rag

    2. First remove your window regulator switch plate by pulling at the service notch at the top

    NOTE: If you are having trouble pulling at the service notch with your fingers, you can use a screw driver with a rag around it to protect the plastic from being scratched.

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    3. And then lift it out to release the clip at the rear edge

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    4. Remove the window regulator switch plate by removing the screws. The driver’s side will be different than what the passenger side (as pictured) will look like.

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    5. Remove the door latch release handle cup. I stuck my hand in the door as pictured and just popped it out.

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    6. Remove the Mach460 cover (if you have one) by just working it off one cover and pulling it off.

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    7. Remove the screw holding the speaker to the door.
    NOTE: Be careful not to put a finger through the tweeter speaker cover. It’s just cloth glued on.

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    8. Disconnect the electrical connector.

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    9. Remove the screws (Phillips), and push pin. The push pin was a bit difficult to get off, work it out slowly with force, but don’t rip it out, otherwise it will bend/break.

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    10. Lift the trim panel up first, and then pull it out towards you.



    11. Now you have your trim panel off. I didn’t know what was wrong with my window, so I slowly pealed the interior weather strip away from the door to see the window (slowly, don’t rip it otherwise you will need to buy another).

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    Last edited: Oct 4, 2008
  2. Finaltheorem47

    Finaltheorem47 I'm a Lead Farmer Established Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2008
    Location:
    Northern Virginia
    12. As you can see with my window, one of the clamps had loosened, and the reason why the rear of my window was up higher than it should have been, was because as the window moved upwards and hit the stop, it would stop the clamp, but the window wasn’t attached to it, so the other clamps attached to the window continued to push the window up.

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    13. To fix this, I simply super glued the window back into the clamp.

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    14. Soooo to be safe, I decided to wait a while to make sure the super glue had dried before I tried the window again… (bored)

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    15. I angled a heat gun at the clamp to try to speed things up.

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    16. I noticed when I pulled my window regulator switch out, the foam was messed up, so while I waited, I decided to fix it.

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    a. I used this headliner and carpet adhesive. Its contact cement in a can and its great stuff, use it almost like I use wd40 on everything.

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    b. Here is the foam, I took my flat head and scraped all the remaining foam off the plastic.

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    c. Here I found a nice piece of headliner foam to use as a replacement piece of foam. Its almost the exact size.

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    d. I took some tape and taped up the plastic to fit the size of the foam I just cut for it.

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    e. Sprayed both pieces and waited 3-5 minutes for them to dry.

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    f. Then stuck it on, and it’s already dry, so it’s ready to get put back in the car. Easy as that!

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  3. Finaltheorem47

    Finaltheorem47 I'm a Lead Farmer Established Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2008
    Location:
    Northern Virginia
    17. Alright, now that the glue is dry, let’s test the window out.

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    18. Yay, here it is all the way up! It worked!

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    19. Yep, another inspection with it down shows that the glue worked this time and the clamp is bonded once again securely to the window.

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    20. If this wasn’t your problem/didn’t work, you might just have to re-adjust the high adjustment stops. It’s pretty simple, just loosen (don’t remove) the two bolts pictured and raise the window to where you want, and then tighten the two bolts to 9 ft lbs.

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    21. Now we are ready to put the door back together. Really you can use any adhesive that provides a seal but can be pulled apart for the interior weather stripping. Here I used the contact cement again and stuck it together right after spraying it while it was still wet. RTV silicone also would work if you apply a thin layer.
    NOTE: Wait two minutes, then pat the interior weather stripping down again to make sure its bonded to the door.

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    22. Put the trim panel back in, reverse order. Shake it a bit to make sure all the hooks are attached. Put the push-pin and two screws back in.


    23. Speakers go in like so, there’s a pin in the back and the bottom of the speaker slides in the door like pictured. The Mach460 cover snaps over the speaker. Wiggle it also to make sure it’s completely on.

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    24. The screws for the window switch plate go back in like pictured, then pop the panel back in.

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    25. Okay, Finished!

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    Last edited: Oct 4, 2008
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