How-to for Kooks Header install?

[HawkMech]

So here I am getting ready to tackle the install of a new set of Kooks headers and matching mid-pipe next week, and I can't find a single how-to type write up for the job anywhere. Does anyone here know of anywhere that I can find a simple set of instructions for the job? If not, I'm doing the install anyways, just trying to get an idea of if there are any special tools, or anything like that, that could make the job easier. I'd very much appreciate advice that anyone could offer if they've done the job before, or helped, or just heard any useful information about it.

Lol just noticed I forgot to mention that they are for a 2011 GT with manual transmission.

 

[scotmach]

If they're the 1 7/8" good luck LOL.

 

[SILV03MustangGT]

I used the dyna tech header instal write up. was a good PDF format.

 

[Nuar]

The best how to I've found when I was looking around was this.

2011 Mustang GT 5.0 Recap & Stainless Works Long Tube Header Installation - LatemodelRestoration.com Blog

 

[HawkMech]

Well they are the 1 7/8" variety, don't really see how that would make a big difference versus a 1 3/4", but I'll press on nonetheless. Thanks to Nuar, and SILV03MustangGT for the info.

 

[SILV03MustangGT]

the biggest piece of advice I have is get a 15mm flex head gearwrench. Also when you put the steering shaft back on the bottom bolt slides in then threads. If you thread it first your steering will be sloppy.

 

[scotmach]

Well they are the 1 7/8" variety, don't really see how that would make a big difference versus a 1 3/4", but I'll press on nonetheless.

Oh you'll find out.:lol1:

Good luck though.

 

[Chuck@Evolution]

Oh you'll find out.:lol1:

Good luck though.

What was up with your 1 7/8 header install. I do them all the time with no issues.

To the OP, I did a quick write up for someone on how to do the header install a while ago over on s197. I copied and pasted it here for you. Let me know if you have any questions.


K frame removal.

Disconnect and remove the battery and tray.

Remove front wheels.

Unbolt the 15mm nuts on the motor mounts.

Remove the 2 under trays.

Remove tie rod bolts and tie rods from hub assembly. Using a torch on the hub where the tie rod goes helps alot, and during reassembly I put a little anti seize on the tie rod end.

Remove bolt and nut from ball joint. A little anti seize on the ball joint and bolt during reassembly will aid in disassembly in the future if you put some miles on the car.

Remove the 13 mm bolt from the steering shaft knuckle.

Remove the cross brace back by the bell housing.

Unclip the 2 electrical connectors at the steering rack.

Remove 2 of the 18mm bolts at the rear of the k frame.

Support the engine in your preferred manner. I use a pole jack with a block of wood under the oil pan.

Remove the 2 rear ward nuts at the front of the k frame.

Support the k frame.

Remove the last 2 bolts at the rear of the k frame.

Remove the final 2 nuts at the front of the k frame.

Carefully lower and set aside the k frame.

Remove starter and set aside.

Remove nut on passenger side motor mount bracket holding ground wire and nut holding tranny cooler lines if auto. Carefully pull ground wire and bracket out of the way.

Remove 4 bolts holding motor mount brackets on each side. Remember where studded bolts go for reassembly.

Remove 8 nuts on each side holding headers. Be careful of the top front most on the passenger side where it is behind the AC line. Using a ratcheting box end here is probably the best option. I have seen what happens when you try to pry the line back a little, and it is messy. (No, I didn't do it)

Depending on your header choice, it may be necessary to remove the manifold studs as well.

Install your headers. Contrary to popular belief, it is not necessary to install O2 extenders for the front O2s on the 5.0, and I strongly recommend against is, as I have not seen a single extender that works very well. For whatever reason, the connectors do not lock together very well, and I know of at least one instance where the extender has been blamed for a blown engine. If you release the plastic connector at the top of the bell housing where the wire harness crosses over the tranny, you will have enough slack in the harness to reach the drivers side O2 fine.

The rear O2s sometimes require extension, and if necessary, I will cut the harness side (not the O2 wires themselves, but the engine harness) and solder in wires to extend the harness enough. If you are running catless, then rear O2s are not even necessary and the bungs can be plugged.

Reinstall mount brackets, starter, and k frame in reverse order of disassembly. Reinstall battery. Flash car with new tune. ENJOY!
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[Ultrakla$$ic]

K frame removal.

This is all I need to know!!!!!! NO WAY for me!!! LOL!!!

 

[scotmach]

What was up with your 1 7/8 header install. I do them all the time with no issues.

With the Kooks or another manufacturer?

 

[Chuck@Evolution]

With DynaTech, American Racing Headers, and Stainless Works. We don't do Kooks here.

 

[scotmach]

With DynaTech, American Racing Headers, and Stainless Works. We don't do Kooks here.

Then that isn't an apples to apples comparison now is it? The Kooks with their mid length/equal length design can be a nightmare.

 

[B Square]

Kooks are a pita to install. You don't have to drop the k member although it may make install easier. My builder, who only works on modular Mustangs, said the Kooks install on the new 5.0 were the hardest he'd ever done

B

 

[SILV03MustangGT]

This is all I need to know!!!!!! NO WAY for me!!! LOL!!!

I did my LTs on my back with the car on jack stands. I didn't drop the K member I just jacked the motor up a little bit. It was time consuming but pretty simple.

 

[HawkMech]

Thanx for the help Chuck. It's much appreciated.

 

[NoSlo5oH]

I installed long tubes on my 2013 two weeks ago. It is time consuming, but the end result is worth it. Do yourself a favor and chase the bolt holes in the heads after you remove the factory studs. Also use antiseize on the bolts too. BTW, I have installed headers on a modular Stang in the past without removing the k-member and vowed to never do it that way again. It is a little extra work, but you'll be glad you did when you see how much access you have to everything with it out of the way.

Bassani headers

 

[Jedisalami]

is everyone using the stock studs and stock header gaskets?

 

[byeofcr]

Ok man i did mind without dropping the k member. Chucks write up is great i used a combo of all 3 direction from LRS, dynatech, and chuck.
A lift is great. Jackstands will work. A lottttt of patience my SW are 1 7/8.
Off the top of my head GOOD FREAKING LUCK with the stock h pipe catalytics. I torched mine off. Spray PB on them and let it work. Swivels and extensions in both 1/4 and 3/8.
A 13MM ratchet wrench is a good send, swivel head is preferred.
Jack the engine up (disconnect steering shaft, motor mounts, and starter) until bellhousing wont go up. I re used sll the stock gaskets and hardware.
Lastly the passenger side is a bitch, i had to have a buddy with a pry bar carefully push the engine towards the driver side to swing up and in.
Ur gunna only be able turn each nut a 1/4 at a time lol
I was a nervous wreck and didnt drop the k member it took 10 hours but i could do
it in 6-7 with having been thru n what to expect. If i had to do it again, id just drop the sub frame n make easy for myself.
Goodluck

 

[NoSlo5oH]

is everyone using the stock studs and stock header gaskets?

New factory gaskets and hardware supplied by Bassani for me.

 

[SILV03MustangGT]

I reused my stock hardware. Studs and nuts.