(I searched) Need torque specs for 4 IRS bolts

[jguerrero]

Searched everywhere and could find no answers, only found the specs for all the rest of the IRS in the tink TSB notice.

Anyone now what the specs are?
Is there a service book/DVD out for 03/04 Cobras yet?

Any help would be much appreciatd, going to get the car aligned tommorow and am going to have them make sure everything is up to spec.

 

[bassin247]

My search found this.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...hreadid=86032&highlight=IRS+bolt+torque+specs

You can get the book from helm and a service manual on dvd from ebay. I paid 140 bucks for my helm guide.

 

[JB]

Subframe-to-body bolts 76 lb-ft
Subframe-to-rear bracket bolts 76 lb-ft
Subframe rear bracket-to-body bolts 59 lb-ft

 

[jguerrero]

thanks guys, so basically all four IRS bolts(ones that hold it on are supposed to be torqued to 76 lb-ft

what is this Subframe rear bracket-to-body bolts 59 lb-ft? so many damn parts!

anyone got a diagram of the IRS they have scanned or found somewhere.

I really need to pick up that book.

 

[JB]

the rear brackets have a captive nut and can be left in place when you drop the IRS subframe, so yes, the only spec you need to do the job will be 76 lb-ft :thumbsup:

 

[Yuckfou]

Jesse, From the looks of it we over torqued the Subframe-to-body bolts and the Subframe-to-rear bracket bolts.

Can anyone tell us what problems or symptoms if any can arise from over tightening these bolts?

We will be lowering my '03 on Friday any help would be great.

Keith

 

[jguerrero]

I think its a lot of 'tinking' and 'creaking' :mj:

Ya, I think we tightened them way to much, thats what I feel all the sounds are coming from, that and that little stabilizer that took forever to tighten with the two wrenches together. I decided to go to the other alignment place that only does alignments, seems they have some experience with lowered cars. Costs a bit more, because it does not follow the factory specs.

I found this on modularfords, might prove useful for other people also:


Subframe-to-body bolts 76 lb-ft
Subframe-to-rear bracket bolts 76 lb-ft
Subframe rear bracket-to-body bolts 59 lb-ft
Shock absorber-to-lower arm and bushing bolts 98 lb-ft
Shock absorber-to-body nuts 30 lb-ft
Upper arm and bushing-to-subframe nuts 66 lb-ft
Upper arm bushing-to-knuckle nut 66 lb-ft
Lower arm and bushing-to-subframe bolts 184 lb-ft
Lower arm and bushing-to-knuckle nut 85 lb-ft
Toe link-to-subframe nut 35 lb-ft
Toe link-to-knuckle nut 35 lb-ft
Stabilizer bar bracket bolt 41 lb-ft
Stabilizer bar link nuts 35 lb-ft
Rear axle diff rear insulator-to-axle housing bolts 76 lb-ft
Rear brake disc dust sheild-to-knuckle bolts 89 lb-in
Brake line-to-rear brake caliper bolt 30 lb-ft
Parking brake cable bracket-to-lower arm bushing bolt 11 lb-ft
ABS sensor bolt 17 lb-ft
Axle shaft-to-hub retainer 240 lb-ft
Wheel nuts 95 lb-ft

 

[qmcobra]

Question on Yuckfou's diagram, could somebody lable that for me and point out where that 12mm bolt is. Thanks

 

[predator]

Originally posted by jguerrero
I think its a lot of 'tinking' and 'creaking' :mj:

Ya, I think we tightened them way to much, thats what I feel all the sounds are coming from, that and that little stabilizer that took forever to tighten with the two wrenches together. I decided to go to the other alignment place that only does alignments, seems they have some experience with lowered cars. Costs a bit more, because it does not follow the factory specs.

I found this on modularfords, might prove useful for other people also:


Subframe-to-body bolts 76 lb-ft
Subframe-to-rear bracket bolts 76 lb-ft
Subframe rear bracket-to-body bolts 59 lb-ft
Shock absorber-to-lower arm and bushing bolts 98 lb-ft
Shock absorber-to-body nuts 30 lb-ft
Upper arm and bushing-to-subframe nuts 66 lb-ft
Upper arm bushing-to-knuckle nut 66 lb-ft
Lower arm and bushing-to-subframe bolts 184 lb-ft
Lower arm and bushing-to-knuckle nut 85 lb-ft
Toe link-to-subframe nut 35 lb-ft
Toe link-to-knuckle nut 35 lb-ft
Stabilizer bar bracket bolt 41 lb-ft
Stabilizer bar link nuts 35 lb-ft
Rear axle diff rear insulator-to-axle housing bolts 76 lb-ft
Rear brake disc dust sheild-to-knuckle bolts 89 lb-in
Brake line-to-rear brake caliper bolt 30 lb-ft
Parking brake cable bracket-to-lower arm bushing bolt 11 lb-ft
ABS sensor bolt 17 lb-ft
Axle shaft-to-hub retainer 240 lb-ft
Wheel nuts 95 lb-ft

Glad you found the list. ;-) Sorry I did not notice your question earlier. Must have been lost in looking at the pics of your wheels.

Over torque of the bolts could cause the bushing to bind and make the noises you hear. Now that you have the bolts in just back them off and tighten to spec.

On the diagram the subframe bushings are circled in red.....lower control arm in blue and pinion in green. The pic was provided when we were just talking about doing bushing and bolt replacement awhile back. Since then some good aftermarket bushings have been made available for those areas and the upper control arms too. Rear steer, sway bar endlinks and rear diff bushings also. All of these have made a dramatic improvement in the handling characteristics of our cars.

To answer the question more directly....the 12mm bolt is in the front...or left in the picture....subframe bushing.

Hope this helps....... :beer:

 

[qmcobra]

thanks predator, that helps. So one uses the maximum motorsports polyurethane bushings on the subframe. I read where urethane is not good for the differential due to heat. I read that the kenny brown aluminum bushings do not fit right. Where and what should I use for diff bushings. Last question, do I need control arm bushings. This is a daily driver that I just want to take some hop out of her step
Thanks