Is the C&R a dual or triple pass HE?
If you live in a really hot climate like I do, you might want to invest into a killer chiller. Keeps my IAT2 temps about 10-15* above ambient when cruising and below ambient for short time into boost. Only downside is your cabin cooling performance will suffer. Guess you can't have it all.Yea I would say in and out of boost on the freeway. No lower then 110*. I did notice that my HE does the job because after being parked I saw really high temps and once I started driving it cooled way down quickly.
Just thought I would have cooler temps. Last year at 95*-100* I was heat soaked. I heard anything over 140* you pull timing and I'm already on a mild tune due to only having 91pump. Just not looking forward to being heat soaked this summer when I have invested in an aftermarket HE.
What over cooling mods are out there?
That doesn't really sound out of the ordinary. Run a couple data logs at WOT and see what your IAT2 values are while in boost. If they're staying around 110-120, that would be pretty normal in that type of heat.Yea I would say in and out of boost on the freeway. No lower then 110*. I did notice that my HE does the job because after being parked I saw really high temps and once I started driving it cooled way down quickly.
Just thought I would have cooler temps. Last year at 95*-100* I was heat soaked. I heard anything over 140* you pull timing and I'm already on a mild tune due to only having 91pump. Just not looking forward to being heat soaked this summer when I have invested in an aftermarket HE.
What over cooling mods are out there?
... The walls of the manifold are quite hot. The longer you drive the hotter it's going to get. ...
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What over cooling mods are out there?
My caveat about the Killer Chiller is two fold:
AC systems generate liquid water that rolls off the evaporator. Unless youre in a dry climate, this is an issue at the track. Leaving water on the track can at best cause guys to spin their wheels that run after you. At worse, it can cause a wreck. Even in a dry climate you can have water come off your evap.
There is apparently a drag race version that doesn't let the water drip. So youll have to empty out a reservoir for that it sounds like.
The second is the company itself. A few months ago, there was a thread about a KC standalone unit that, for lack of a better description, failed miserably. Svtp member got the short end of the stick and got excuse after excuse about where his agreed upon refund was. A shit show to say the least, and that was dealing with the owner if killer chiller.... I personally will never do business with a company that has business ethics like that. Others are certainly free to do as they please.
There are many that love the KC, and many that will look at better solutions from more reputable companies. At least now youve heard the other side.
I'll need to use my laser temp probe to see what I can read. I agree in theory, but lets look a little deeper. I've got a 170* thermostat too and my fans are set to keep the coolant at something just under 180* in the summer time, and it fluctuates around that number. But anytime I data log, I see my cylinder head temperatures range between 12* and 18* above that. Granted, I've not checked them to see how hot they get on the outside, but I doubt they're 20* cooler on the exterior. Hitting the cam covers and the timing cover will not yield accurate temperature readings as there are considerable air voids behind both of them.I don't know if that's entirely true. I like to check my temps after a drive every now and then just to see how my cooling system is performing. I have a 170* t-stat. I don't have anything to take any internal measurements, so I use a laser pointer and spot check different places on the engine. I left the engine running after a drive one time and checked the temps of the outside of the heads and the valley. Each one was plumb dead on 170*. I would imagine after a while the fluid and the metal reach equilibrium. So, whether you're reading the fluid or the metal it cools, the temps should read the same.
If hes not racing then theres no worry.
I still think Killer Chiller is a questionably reputable company. As i recall the member in question was told his stand alone system was ready to go. Either way, KC dropped the ball. All was eventually made right as was agreed but it should never have gone there.
Its up to consumers to decide if its worth the risk doing busoness with a company. They should know who they are getting invloved with though both good and bad.
Maybe a heat exchanger sprayer similar to the Subaru systems. Would help the HE shed a lot of heat quickly and would need nothing more than a modified washer bottle. Just an idea
The drag kit version of the killer chiller is just a electronic shutoff valve ($200) that stops refrigerant flow to the evaporator which stops condensation from the evaporator. Finding out that Kincaid is operating out of a U-storage looks very sketchy but the standard kit has been out for quite some time and is just a cooling block, assortment of fittings, and hose. But since the OP has a fanned triple pass already, I think only way to optimize performance is to remove as much under hood heat as possible.My caveat about the Killer Chiller is two fold:
AC systems generate liquid water that rolls off the evaporator. Unless youre in a dry climate, this is an issue at the track. Leaving water on the track can at best cause guys to spin their wheels that run after you. At worse, it can cause a wreck. Even in a dry climate you can have water come off your evap.
There is apparently a drag race version that doesn't let the water drip. So youll have to empty out a reservoir for that it sounds like.
The second is the company itself. A few months ago, there was a thread about a KC standalone unit that, for lack of a better description, failed miserably. Svtp member got the short end of the stick and got excuse after excuse about where his agreed upon refund was. A shit show to say the least, and that was dealing with the owner if killer chiller.... I personally will never do business with a company that has business ethics like that. Others are certainly free to do as they please.
There are many that love the KC, and many that will look at better solutions from more reputable companies. At least now youve heard the other side.
Hmmm - Interesting. Does the spray vaporize so it doesn't drop water on the street ?
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But rice isn't as hot as "real muscle"...The Subie guys have their actual Air to Air intercooler mounted on top of the engine and the hood scoop actually feeds the cooling process for the intercooler.
So on the same general conditions... without those fans on my setup (not apples to apples, I know) I have these numbers:Ambient temps were 68*, my IAT were 95* (this is at the MAF) and my IAT2s were up to 122* stopped at a traffic signal and 114* once I got moving again. ECT was 176* and cylinder head temps were in the 195* range. Obviously the car ingests underhood air at a stop. At an idle you're not changing out the air in the intake quite as quickly as twice that rpm, which could also account for the higher temperatures. I have the factory cold air heat shield with a factory hood. This was with an AFCO dual fan heat exchanger.
Mine is a 'vert... and co-pilot (wife) said "what's that new noise" when the key went to "ON" and the IC pump kicked on for the first timeSince half of the heat exchanger is obscured from airflow by the bumper, fans would probably help quite a bit. Now realize, I probably should be wearing hearing aids, but I don't hear the fans running except with the windows down in a semi-enclosed area (garage, bank drive-in). Standing outside of the car, they are fairly loud.
I actually started a project for this about a year ago... I have an Arduino I coded up with temp sensors, high amp relays, voltage controllers, basically everything I need to make the fans "smarter"... So - after I install them and see how loud they are (i.e. pass the wife test or not) - I can potentially make them "smart".Okay, I see the problem. My wife has cat ears too. After almost 40 years, I've worn here down. If there was a way to reduce the fan speed, they wouldn't be near as loud. I had a pair of electric fans on my F-150 that were controlled with a pretty sophisticated fan controller that varied the speeds of the fan. With the Ford Racing radiator I had, the fans were never on full tilt and weren't very noticeable standing in front of the grille. These were dual 16" versions of the same fans we have on these heat exchangers. You might just use one fan instead of two.