IC pump gone bad?

[99cobraUgotbit]

I recently posted a thread about lower trap speed. After finally hunting down a laptop I got some data logging finished. Seems my issue is my downstream temps are 30 above ambient at idol and 50 above at WOT. 145+ at WOT.

I ended up calling Van to help with diagnosis because I have a C&R H/E with fans that has been installed for 2 years. He mentioned I may have put in 100% coolant and did not mix with water. I very well may have. So I drained as much as I could from the bottom about 4 Quartz. Filled it up with distiller water and went back out to data log. WOW, boy did the temps rise up significantly. At the end of logging the data temps were up to 235 degrees!! Got home and there was a good mixture of Coolant that could not drain and water but it was hot..... Any reason why the temps got worse by adding water?

Did some Google research and found a thread on here where someone was having the exact same issues I'm having. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?886175-HELP-High-IAT2-with-C-amp-R-HE

About to buy an IC pump to see if it fixes the issue. Is the 13/14 IC pump better?
Are these pumps known to fail?

Thanks

 

[Steve@Tasca]

The '13-'14 pump is better but it's a lot more expensive at about $264 with our big discount.

Here's the stock replacement for yours, http://www.tascaparts.com/cooling/electric-water-pump-msvt/m-8501-msvt/

They do fail over time obviously but they're not horribly expensive.

-Steve

.

 

[Steve@Tasca]

As far as temps going up? Straight water will boil where an antifreeze/water mix will not. I'd never run straight water in a cooling system or intercooler system.

-Steve

 

[99cobraUgotbit]

Steve. I drained about 3 liters. Van told me there was 8 Quartz total. So I believe I drained half. When I got home after logging there was coolant in the reservoir.

I only have 18k miles. Does the 13/14 fit in the 12 brackets?

 

[nxhappy]

you may have air in the system. Have you tried burping it?

To check the pump: Let the car get to normal temp. Open the cap and see if the water is swirling around. If it is, your pump is working.

 

[nxhappy]

also 235 is HOT. Could be your Tstat is not functioning and not opening the radiator flow.

 

[jenkins_1120]

Sent you a pm I have a pump just sitting around from my 11.

 

[99cobraUgotbit]

also 235 is HOT. Could be your Tstat is not functioning and not opening the radiator flow.

I have a reiche 170* that is pretty old. I could start there but tired of waiting. May just get pump and thermostat

you may have air in the system. Have you tried burping it?

To check the pump: Let the car get to normal temp. Open the cap and see if the water is swirling around. If it is, your pump is working.

Can air get in the system that easily? Haven't messed with it since install...... I will check the coolant tank for flow when I get home.

 

[99cobraUgotbit]

Sent you a pm I have a pump just sitting around from my 11.

Replied to PM

 

[Steve@Tasca]

A 170 stat won't make the car run at 170, just means that's when the stat opens. If other cooling system components aren't up to snuff a colder stat can actually cause overheating because it never holds coolant in the radiator.

The 13-14 pump is totally different, requires fabbed mounting and a pigtail spliced in.

Are your fans working properly?

-Steve

 

[nxhappy]

I have a reiche 170* that is pretty old. I could start there but tired of waiting. May just get pump and thermostat


Can air get in the system that easily? Haven't messed with it since install...... I will check the coolant tank for flow when I get home.

yes. burp the system.

 

[Kenneth]

Thermostat has nothing to do with IAT's going up.
Separate cooling system.

 

[Steve@Tasca]

Thermostat has nothing to do with IAT's going up.
Separate cooling system.

Except that higher underhood temps due a hot engine cooling system will raise the temps of the intercooler system.

-Steve

 

[99cobraUgotbit]

Yes the fans are working properly. I can here them when shut off the car.

 

[RSAGT500]

When the engine is cool and not running take the cap off the tank and jumper the pump relay with a wire or paperclip and look for flow in the tank.

 

[nxhappy]

if engine temp is 235, then something is wrong with the cooling system.

 

[fullboogie]

OP never said it was the engine cooling system that was at 235. It was the IAT2's. Burp the system and check for IC pump flow.

 

[nrmustang]

Yes, burp the system! If you weren't having that high of IAT2's before the drain, then most likely your pump is fine.

I just recently installed a H/E with fans, and noticed no flow in my reservoir (should look like a whirl pool). Burped the system, and the coolant coming from the H/E was HOT! I know this is going to sound crazy, but I found a youtube video of a guy that burped his system, where he removed the reservoir's input hose and put a can under it to catch fluid. Plugged the hole on the reservoir with his thumb, opened the cap and blew into it. This primed the pump and got it purged of air.

I tried it, YES IT WORKED. That was the method I went with, and it worked. No special tools necessary.

Now it's 100% and COOL.

 

[Black Cobra '99]

The air in the system would account for IAT2 getting to 235. However it doesn't account for the original problem, it could be your pump is going, people have had this issue before and noted that it'll go off/on after hitting a pothole or something.

I'd make sure the system is free of air, then check the IC pump. Also, VMP have a kit for the 13/14 pump, it relocates it to behind the driver side headlight and it comes with the necessary connections.

Before you go with the 13/14 pump you should check out this thread
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1013908-GT500-IC-HE-Pump-Comparison
Very informative and a good read.

 

[99cobraUgotbit]

Awesome guys thanks for all the info. Got some work to do when I get home. Will update after diagnosis.