Idea, Looking for Opinions

[Deceptive]

My wife is not a huge fan of my Cobra YSi build since it will be at the power level all the time. I asked her about a turbo setup with a high and low boost setup. After a little explanation of how it would work, she liked the turbo idea. I am trying to do research so that I get it right. The only turbo car I have had was a bolt on 96 Eclipse. But here was what I was thinking.

Teksid Block .020 over
Oliver Billet Rods
JE Pistons 9.5:1 CR
P&P 03 C Heads
Turbo Cams Custom Spec'd
CG Fab Hot & Cold Side
T56 Magnum 2.97 1rst .62 6th (I already talked to D&D about this for my 4V Swapped 02 GT V1 Si Build)
3.27 FRPP Gears

I want to run maybe 15-18psi on low boost and max it at high boost

The car is not a track car, it will be driven to cruises, shows, compete in 1/2 and 1 mile events.

That said, I am trying to decide between the Sullivan Intake or stock 01 Cobra Intake (it is an updated casting off a crate engine). I do not want to go with a crazy hood on the car (96 Cobra), maybe a Trufiber 2000R Hood.
And then Precision 6466s Billet Wheel/Ceramic BB with .81 a/r and ported shroud or 6766 the same way.

What do you guys think?

I have a while as I am working on both cars as time and money permits. Full time school and work along with remodeling a home take up a lot of time and remodeling along with trying to get bills paid off faster so that we can start looking at property to build on takes money.

 

[Nightmare302]

Teksid block, only go over as far as need to true the cylinder. Order custom pistons with quality wrist pins. I would not bother with cams unless you really really want to spend the money. You do not need BB turbos, the spool difference will be tiny and they cost a ton more. I would save the money being spent on the BB turbos, cams, and Magnum and have a 4L80e built for the car with a FMVB. Do not go sulli with a stick car, the car will never spool.

With that said, you can put a wastegate on a centri car. The car will still spin the supercharger the same it will just bleed off the boost to what you want.

Lastly, make sure to address fuel system and know what type of fuel you want. Also, I'd recommend going standalone at that point and even more so if you plan to run pump gas.

 

[badcobra]

Why does your wife care how much or how little your car makes lol? You could simply just wastegate your YSi and not have to spend a bazillion dollars to placate your wifes desires of less power in your car. Just a thought.

 

[Lstruck03]

Your engine setup is very similar to mine. 20 over, 9.7:1 teksid, ported big valve 03 heads, stock 98 cam, Ported 01 intake. I run a single 78mm, and on pump fuel at 16 psi it makes mid 600s very very conservative tuning. 21 psi on race fuel it was 820 wheel. these are on a mustang dyno as well.

E85 coming soon, at 25 psi. Hoping to make a good number.

 

[Deceptive]

Teksid block, only go over as far as need to true the cylinder. Order custom pistons with quality wrist pins. I would not bother with cams unless you really really want to spend the money. You do not need BB turbos, the spool difference will be tiny and they cost a ton more. I would save the money being spent on the BB turbos, cams, and Magnum and have a 4L80e built for the car with a FMVB. Do not go sulli with a stick car, the car will never spool.

With that said, you can put a wastegate on a centri car. The car will still spin the supercharger the same it will just bleed off the boost to what you want.

Lastly, make sure to address fuel system and know what type of fuel you want. Also, I'd recommend going standalone at that point and even more so if you plan to run pump gas.

Fuel System is being addressed, I will not have a problem there. I know you can wastegate a Centri but I am digging the idea of twins for this car. I have another project, 02 GT Vert, that is receiving a Vortech V1 Si. I have yet to buy the Vortech for the Cobra and was thinking why not since about the only parts I have that I would not use are the SVT/Manley Rods and the H&R SS Springs. I can save those for another build.

I want to stay stick, just a preference. I have the 01 Intake Manifold so I do not have to buy a Sully. I was really leaning towards the 6466s for the quicker spool. And it should still make over 1000rwhp on high boost.

Why does your wife care how much or how little your car makes lol? You could simply just wastegate your YSi and not have to spend a bazillion dollars to placate your wifes desires of less power in your car. Just a thought.

Happy wife, happy life. Keeping her happy and involved with my hobbies have afforded me two Mustangs, a motorcycle, and a truck without any arguments.

Your engine setup is very similar to mine. 20 over, 9.7:1 teksid, ported big valve 03 heads, stock 98 cam, Ported 01 intake. I run a single 78mm, and on pump fuel at 16 psi it makes mid 600s very very conservative tuning. 21 psi on race fuel it was 820 wheel. these are on a mustang dyno as well.

E85 coming soon, at 25 psi. Hoping to make a good number.

I worry about porting the intake as I have seen people with problems due to them being ported. Just wondered it a stock intake will flow enough without hampering the car at 25-30lbs. I will be running E85 exclusively.

 

[Nightmare302]

Just be aware with a stick the car might make 1000rwhp but it will be slower than many cars running much less hp and an auto. You can still use the twin 6466's I'm just saying don't bother going ball bearing on those turbo's. There is an absurd cost difference for very little performance gain. If you want to just toss money at this thing then that's perfectly fine but I always try to strike a balance between performance and cost. Cams/ball bearing turbos are extremely high cost low performance items. With that said, if you are dead set on running a stick (for whatever reason) then properly spec'd cams and ball bearing turbos will help the car spool and offer SLIGHTLY more performance for the cost on a stick car.

 

[Deceptive]

Well, what would you recommend with a stick car? Remember, I can have the T56 tailored to meet my needs (take the gears from both to make one to help). What about 6266s? Or is it the 66 wheel that would hurt me? I am going Precision Turbos. Stepping up to BB is not a problem, anything to help.

 

[Nightmare302]

Well, what would you recommend with a stick car? Remember, I can have the T56 tailored to meet my needs (take the gears from both to make one to help). What about 6266s? Or is it the 66 wheel that would hurt me? I am going Precision Turbos. Stepping up to BB is not a problem, anything to help.

For a stick car I say build a car to make ~700rwhp and enjoy it. You are asking for trans and clutch failures at the ~1000rwhp mark and you will find it incredibly difficult to lay down decent times. But you don't seem to care about performance and want the 1000rwhp just to have it (which is totally find do no get offend by this comment) If you want a stick car to make the number and run decent, run E85, run higher compression (10.5+:1), get custom grind cams degreed and spec'd to help with spool, run a 01 cobra or mach intake, do no stress about ported heads, get some serious suspension, the gen2 60/62 is supposed to be a bad bad turbo and would cost the same price as a bb gen 1 cea 6266 ball bearing but would probably spool better, a stand alone (I like the holley dominator). It will make power and if you can row the gears and have a bullet proof rear it will run decent. If you just want the 1krwhp and want to run 10's then just throw some serious boost into and be done.

Gearing is not the issue with the T-56. It's the actual shifts. A full manual valve body shifted auto will be seriously faster when you get to that level of power, not to mention more fun.

 

[Deceptive]

For a stick car I say build a car to make ~700rwhp and enjoy it. You are asking for trans and clutch failures at the ~1000rwhp mark and you will find it incredibly difficult to lay down decent times. But you don't seem to care about performance and want the 1000rwhp just to have it (which is totally find do no get offend by this comment) If you want a stick car to make the number and run decent, run E85, run higher compression (10.5+:1), get custom grind cams degreed and spec'd to help with spool, run a 01 cobra or mach intake, do no stress about ported heads, get some serious suspension, the gen2 60/62 is supposed to be a bad bad turbo and would cost the same price as a bb gen 1 cea 6266 ball bearing but would probably spool better, a stand alone (I like the holley dominator). It will make power and if you can row the gears and have a bullet proof rear it will run decent. If you just want the 1krwhp and want to run 10's then just throw some serious boost into and be done.

Gearing is not the issue with the T-56. It's the actual shifts. A full manual valve body shifted auto will be seriously faster when you get to that level of power, not to mention more fun.

Fuel will be zero issues as I am going to run a BBRC setup on E85 with ID injectors. I don't mind 9.5-10:1 CR as I am ditching the stock ECU for a Pro-M EFI setup. I am asking Kurgan for custom spec'd cams for both cars. I have an 01 Cobra intake with revised design from a crate engine. I'd love to sleeve my Teksid to a big bore but I have read about issues with the Darton Sleeves.

Is it the compressor or turbine wheel that I need to concentrate most on?

Oh, and I do plan on a low boost tune and a high boost. I understand it is hard to get that happy medium between the fact that most the time the car will go to shows and cruises but my wife and I want to take it to and be somewhat competitive at the track and speed events.

Essentially a trailer queen without the trailer that can be competitive at the track.

 

[Nightmare302]

Fuel will be zero issues as I am going to run a BBRC setup on E85 with ID injectors. I don't mind 9.5-10:1 CR as I am ditching the stock ECU for a Pro-M EFI setup. I am asking Kurgan for custom spec'd cams for both cars. I have an 01 Cobra intake with revised design from a crate engine. I'd love to sleeve my Teksid to a big bore but I have read about issues with the Darton Sleeves.

Is it the compressor or turbine wheel that I need to concentrate most on?

Oh, and I do plan on a low boost tune and a high boost. I understand it is hard to get that happy medium between the fact that most the time the car will go to shows and cruises but my wife and I want to take it to and be somewhat competitive at the track and speed events.

Essentially a trailer queen without the trailer that can be competitive at the track.

A magnafuel 750 that comes with the BBRC setup will not support 1krwhp on e85. Just a heads up.

 

[Lstruck03]

a t56 is not that hard to shift very fast, as long as you have the right clutch setup and adjusted correctly. And, if you are not confident enough to "power shift" to keep it in boost, then the WOT box is a great option. Along with a properly setup 2 step launch control, a t56 turbo car can still be very fast.

Obviously at that type of power level, autos have the upper hand, but that doesn't mean t56 cars can not do the job.

My car makes north of 900 wheel on a small shot, and soon shooting for the 1050 range. I am still a t56 car, and plan to take it as far as possible.

 

[Nightmare302]

a t56 is not that hard to shift very fast, as long as you have the right clutch setup and adjusted correctly. And, if you are not confident enough to "power shift" to keep it in boost, then the WOT box is a great option. Along with a properly setup 2 step launch control, a t56 turbo car can still be very fast.

Obviously at that type of power level, autos have the upper hand, but that doesn't mean t56 cars can not do the job.

My car makes north of 900 wheel on a small shot, and soon shooting for the 1050 range. I am still a t56 car, and plan to take it as far as possible.

T-56 are not meant to handle that kind of power. It's only a matter of time before a T-56 fails. Ask me how I know. A T-56 is a poor choice for a car built to be fast in a straight line and you aren't doing any roadcourses with 1050rwhp and large turbos. If you want to keep running one that's great, but they aren't designed to handle 1---rwhp and they will be considerably slower than an equal cost auto.

 

[Deceptive]

I am going with a T56 Magnum. Treated right, it should last. My old 3650 was powering a 600rwhp 2V and the transmission was bone stock. Had 90,000mls in my car GT before it made its way to the turbo GT.

 

[Nightmare302]

I am going with a T56 Magnum. Treated right, it should last. My old 3650 was powering a 600rwhp 2V and the transmission was bone stock. Had 90,000mls in my car GT before it made its way to the turbo GT.

That is perfectly fine. I am just setting the expectation that you will have failures at that power level (mostly clutches) and the car will be much slower than a turbo auto car. I always suggest sticking with a twin screw if you want to keep a clutch pedal but it is not my car. For me? I'll shift my auto after killing two different "built" T-56's.

 

[Deceptive]

That is perfectly fine. I am just setting the expectation that you will have failures at that power level (mostly clutches) and the car will be much slower than a turbo auto car. I always suggest sticking with a twin screw if you want to keep a clutch pedal but it is not my car. For me? I'll shift my auto after killing two different "built" T-56's.

Been working slowly on my 4V swap GT build and it has given me time to think. How does this sound for a plan for my Cobra?

Option A: Twin 5858s, turbo cams, E85, T56 , around 9.8:1CR, and Sullivan

Option B same but a ported 01 Intake Manifold (if I can get it ported as it looks like most who have done this have or are stopping)

I know 5858s wont necessarily make 1000hp but I think it would make a very fun car.

 

[Nightmare302]

Shoot for closer to 11:1 compression if you can use e85. If you are using those small of turbos there is no need to use a suli as it will just shift your RPM higher and make peak power but none under the curve.

If you are deadset on a stick still. Up the compression, run a short runner cobra/mach intake (fr500 if you can find one would be great too), spec'd and degree'd cams, and I'd run some custom spec turbos from Jose at Forced Inductions. He can get turbos that will spool and make the power you want. You can make 1krwhp with that on kill and have a fun street car that will make power down low on lower boost.

 

[Deceptive]

Shoot for closer to 11:1 compression if you can use e85. If you are using those small of turbos there is no need to use a suli as it will just shift your RPM higher and make peak power but none under the curve.

If you are deadset on a stick still. Up the compression, run a short runner cobra/mach intake (fr500 if you can find one would be great too), spec'd and degree'd cams, and I'd run some custom spec turbos from Jose at Forced Inductions. He can get turbos that will spool and make the power you want. You can make 1krwhp with that on kill and have a fun street car that will make power down low on lower boost.

Well, I will have to hope a ported stock intake will work or go with a Sullivan. NA SVT is not doing anymore Ported Short Runner Intakes.

He has suggested a Sullivan for me with custom cams, which I planned on cams anyway. I can spin the car to 7500 no problem. Just the fact that the car will be on a low boost tune for 600-700hp has me confused as to what to do.


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[01yellercobra]

Well, I will have to hope a ported stock intake will work or go with a Sullivan. NA SVT is not doing anymore Ported Short Runner Intakes.


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That's too bad. His intakes are pretty good. You can hit up Roy on the Mach 1 Registry to see if he's still doing them. Or just watch the market. Ported intakes pop up once in a while.

 

[Deceptive]

That's too bad. His intakes are pretty good. You can hit up Roy on the Mach 1 Registry to see if he's still doing them. Or just watch the market. Ported intakes pop up once in a while.

I am thinking about hitting up Roy when it is time to decide which way to go. I don't mind giving up a bit of top end for more usable power and better drivability. I know being a manual hurts a bit but I do not want an auto. This is a 99% street car and 1% race car. I'm looking to just compete, not worrying about being top dog. I don't have that money.


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[Nightmare302]

A ported stocker would still allow your car to make 1krwhp with properly sized twins and ~10.5 compression. To be perfectly honest my budget but good combo would be. 03 heads with a good valve job and some clean up, cleaned up mach/cobra intake, 10.5:1 flat tops, custom cams, with two of the new borg sxe 200 turbos if you want twins or a single s480. You'll easily make 1krwhp and still have good power under the curve for the stick.