If you were going to do a clutch....

[Steel City Pimp]

What set up would you go with? Different flywheel? Adjustable clutch quad or whatever you call it? What would be the ideal components for a 500 rwhp&tq car? Im on my second factory clutch and the day I picked mine up from the first one it still smelled. I was goofing off today and did some power shifting. Man talk about burning up the clutch:burn: I was just getting some practice for tomorrow in case I want to start power shifting instead of speed shifting. I'll be running with some et street and figure I should make the most of them. Let me know what you think.

Thanks

 

[03DarkShadow]

i love my Spec stage 2. When it goes ill buy another one just like it. my .02

 

[NetworkingGuru]

I would advise against Spec at present. I have had thier stage 2 in for 2K miles now, and it's already slipping. I will contact them to see if they will warranty it, but if not, I will go back to the stock clutch. At least it didn't slip.

 

[FuShnickens]

mcleod twin disc w/ aluminum or steel flywheel? :burnout:

 

[pgordon]

heard about the spec clutches having problems with longevity when pushing 600+ horsepower. They may be ok in the 300-450 range

 

[SonicVenum]

McLeod Street Twin RULES ALL. ~$900, but it comes with a new flywheel, and should handle over 1100 rwhp. I'll either go with that or the McLeod RevLoc.

 

[NetworkingGuru]

I am pushing 444 RWHP SAE, and I have problems with the stage 2. Tetge is also having problems at the same power level. If I'm not mistaken, MJChip is also having problems at 500 RWHP or so with the stage 3.

Second, twin disks are a bad thing from what I've heard. There are a few good posts on modularfords.com about it, but IIRC, the issue is that you have to keep adjusting the damn things, and the pedal travel is longer (longer shifts), among other things.

 

[2F2F]

McLeod Street Twin Dual Disc all the way...

 

[tommygun]

the people voting twin disc have you owned one or driven one? or are you just a magazine racer and reading about them? SPEC clutches will never get my approval, to many personal problems with slippage and breakage with them. Clutchmaster makes some decent clutches for a street or race car that are affordable or if you want to spend the big money on the very last clutch you will ever buy call RPS. It has the best pedal effort hands down and will not slip with over 700rwhp for longer then any other clutch.

 

[2K3BRA]

I would resurface the aluminum or ditch it and get billet steel, really haven't drove it enough to lean towards one side, but I would definately get all the Steeda or URP stuff cept the cable I would just get the quadrant/adjuster. And a spec stage 2 and call it a day! :thumbsup:

 

[SonicVenum]

Originally posted by tommygun
the people voting twin disc have you owned one or driven one? or are you just a magazine racer and reading about them? SPEC clutches will never get my approval, to many personal problems with slippage and breakage with them. Clutchmaster makes some decent clutches for a street or race car that are affordable or if you want to spend the big money on the very last clutch you will ever buy call RPS. It has the best pedal effort hands down and will not slip with over 700rwhp for longer then any other clutch.

I voted for the Street Twin, I havn't driven one, I am NOT a magazine racer. I am going off of the advice of several tuners who HAVE used them with A LOT of success. If someone is going to build a car that will end up over 600 rwhp, I'm pretty sure that would be the last lutch they would have to buy. I'm sure it's not a very streetable clutch, but it's a give and take. You gain great strength, and give up a little driveability.

A smart man gains knowledge through his experiences, but it is also smart to be able to learn from the experiences of others.

 

[tommygun]

I have had sucess with a street twin also and have seen some other cars with them too. It just seemed funny alot of people posted that it was a great cluch and I was trying to see who actually had one or had driven one. Its a high price for the set up but it does work good after you figure out the correct air gaps and adjustments in the clutches

 

[trey193]

I am also in the market, we reviewed all my vids from my 11.38 and 11.49 pass and some others and you can def. tell on the 2-3 powershift that the clutch slips, I also smelt the clutch for the first time last week at the track, I want a clutch I can drive out of the hole and slip some, not some on or off setup and with the negative comments on specs what else is there that fits the bill??

 

[Steel City Pimp]

Im just thinking it's the right thing to do. I have less than 4k miles on the car now and I am on the second factory clutch. I power shifted the car for the first time the other day and at the track today. I smell clutch a lot anymore, Im sure its going again. Is there a kit that comes with everything? Also when I do the clutch what should all be replaced???

Thanks

Mike

 

[03Sssnake]

I am using a Ram power grip with a 900 series pressure plate. Its not very nice outta first (pretty grabby/shutter). I have gotten used to driving it though, and can avoid the shutter 99% the time. No problems to date other than that.

Any other D&D viper spec T-56 owners out there? Please share your clutch choice...

 

[03Sssnake]

I am using a Ram power grip with a 900 series pressure plate. Its not very nice outta first (pretty grabby/shutter). I have gotten used to driving it though, and can avoid the shutter 99% the time. No problems to date other than that.

Any other D&D viper spec T-56 owners out there? Please share your clutch choice...

 

[03Sssnake]

I am using a Ram power grip with a 900 series pressure plate. Its not very nice outta first (pretty grabby/shutter). I have gotten used to driving it though, and can avoid the shutter 99% the time. No problems to date other than that.

Any other D&D viper spec T-56 owners out there? Please share your clutch choice...

 

[bassin247]

Originally posted by NetworkingGuru
I am pushing 444 RWHP SAE, and I have problems with the stage 2. Tetge is also having problems at the same power level. If I'm not mistaken, MJChip is also having problems at 500 RWHP or so with the stage 3.

Second, twin disks are a bad thing from what I've heard. There are a few good posts on modularfords.com about it, but IIRC, the issue is that you have to keep adjusting the damn things, and the pedal travel is longer (longer shifts), among other things.

mjchip just sent his back because it fell apart. After inspection they determined the clutch failed because of "material failure." They warrantied it.

peep out this thread. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=60936&highlight=spec

 

[VintagePorscheG]

My car has 28,000 miles on the stock clutch and my clutch is still fine. Assuming that it lasts 60-70k I will go with a stock unit again. It seems fine.

I just wish my Pumpkin wasn't leaking.

 

[Rwick7]

11,000 stock clutch miles here...unless I get some more power I'll stick with stock.