In the process of installing K-Member

[jimwood]

Well, Im taking a bit of a plunge. I have decided to upgrade the entire suspension of the cobra. I ultimately decided to go with Griggs Racing for the entire set-up.

On Friday I got the entire car 20" of the ground. Today, I took off the K-Member, which off course means removal of the struts, springs, spindles. The only thing that really f-ed up my whole schedule was taking the spindles off. (Spindles hold the calipers, wheels, to the control arm and tie rods)

What a bitch. Ended up getting an impact wrench and some somewhat specific tools from PepBoys. While I impacted away, my brother pounded the top of the tie rod. Eventually she came lose.

By the way, I really doubt you could do this with out air tools. This is my first experience using air-tools. Very nice. Breaks anything free.

Well, at the end of an 8 hour day, the old K-Member is out and the new is in. Still have to install the caster camper places, struts, griggs severe duty control arms, spindles, etc.

Anyone thinking about doing this project please feel free to ask any questions.

:read:

 

[HISSMAN]

Good job. The K-member swap can be one hell of a pain in the rear. I hope you get everything lined up well. Also, if you took any pics along the way, and remember enough to do a write up (how-to) on it we would appreciate you putting it in the How-to section.


Thanks,


Jeff

 

[jimwood]

Thanks Jeff,

Im really worried about lining the K-member up, but with all eight points it has to be pretty damn, close. Ill find out tomorrow. I'll post some pics.

The biggest thing I learned and should tell all is that I was told that prior to starting to doing this you could do it with your typical 121+ tool set. Let me end that rumor now. No, I do not believe you can. You need air tools.

 

[HISSMAN]

You need air tools


That should be the quote of the week. :rolling:

 

[03yllwguy]

I did this full install on my 98 WITH a lift and air tools at a auto hobby shop and it took open to close 11 hours. I had to drill my spindles out to accomodate their bump steer kit, grind down the Koni D/A's because they don't come pre fitted for the C/O collars, grind down the rear axle strut spindles since the collars rode on them, amongst other things. Words of advice: USE LOTS OF LUBE on all your control arm and K member busings. I didn't know alot at the time and my buddy (self proclaimed mechanic) insisted that you don't lube them. I had more squeeks then I knew what to do with. So Good luck!

 

[predator]

Thanks Jeff,

Im really worried about lining the K-member up, but with all eight points it has to be pretty damn, close. Ill find out tomorrow. I'll post some pics.

The biggest thing I learned and should tell all is that I was told that prior to starting to doing this you could do it with your typical 121+ tool set. Let me end that rumor now. No, I do not believe you can. You need air tools.

A frame shop might be a place to consider when checking your K-member alignment. This was an idea given to me when I finally roll mine out of the garage. I installed a complete MM suspension. :thumbsup:

 

[Cobra-R]

Just keep an eye on the K-member, a-arms, and bumpsteer bolts, all my griggs stuff broke and cracked in about a year. Mine is not an isolated case, just a heads up.

Brian

 

[jimwood]

Thanks for the heads up, Brian.

I have heard that the regular control arms have broken. I went with the severe duty set up. I checked into that and dont know anyone that has had any complaints with the severe duty control arms.

I really put full faith into Griggs. They have the best and fastest set up. Almost every mustang in CA that has the best times is running griggs. Plus I love the personal service. For me the bottomline is that Griggs is top shelve.

I'm going to try something new and go with Delrin IRS frame Bushings as well as Delrin Lower Control arms bushings....

Well,
at the end of day number 4, I have to say this is taking way longer than I expected. I do live 30 mins outside of town so anytime I need something it kills at least 1.5 hours.

Anyways, dealing with the bushings make the spindles look like childs play. I had to get the Spindles machined to accomidate the bumpsteer kit. I bought a $ Rayobia (Sp?) drill press. But is had no balls and couldnt cut through the hardended metal.

The bushings have a metal retaining cup that is an absolutete bitch to get off. First you have to drill out the old bushings, down 3 drill bits, then you have to work the metal cup free (for Delrin). I have an impact hammer that helps, but ultimately have had to dremel my way through. Very difficult to get the right angle, and the dremel cutting disc breaks every two minutes. :dw:

The other thing thats really pissing me off, is the IRS bolt ford puts in is a 12mm, so I have the 14mm replacement. Well the bolt that secures the 12mm is set for 12mm not a 14mm bolt. No clue how others are getting the bolt out. The bolt that holds this particular 12mm bolt is flush against the frame and held in place by the a flashing of some type. Well to make a VERY LONG story short, to get the 12mm bolt out is nearly impossible with out completely ****ing up the frame part. Not somethign I feel comfortable doing. So the 12mm bolt is retained.

:cuss:

 

[Cobra-R]

Thanks for the heads up, Brian.

I have heard that the regular control arms have broken. I went with the severe duty set up. I checked into that and dont know anyone that has had any complaints with the severe duty control arms.

I really put full faith into Griggs. They have the best and fastest set up. Almost every mustang in CA that has the best times is running griggs. Plus I love the personal service. For me the bottomline is that Griggs is top shelve.

I'm going to try something new and go with Delrin IRS frame Bushings as well as Delrin Lower Control arms bushings....

Sorry to be contrary, but I was running their "severe duty" control arms. I switched my car completly over to MM products, (this in in my 95R solid axle car) and it's deffinately better handling with the change. Don't get me wrong, the Griggs stuff is good, but you just need to know there is durability issues with their equipment.


Here is the thread that discussis the issue. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61778&highlight=griggs

 

[jimwood]

Sorry Bro, not trying to start a pissing match, just letting others know how the install goes for the common guy.

As for grigss, I'm happy that you like MM. I like Griggs. I really dont appreciate you trying to down grade Griggs because you like MM better. If my parts brake I'll replace them with new griggs parts. :beer:
For the K-Member I would rather run stock than MM. :beer:

 

[Cobra-R]

Just pointing out I have experience with both. Thats fine if you are cool if the parts break, I have no problem with that, but other people in here might find it hard to swallow after spending big money for something and it doesn't hold up.

I delt with Griggs thru the ordeal I mentioned above (I bought all the parts new from them directly) and every time it wasn't their fault, no matter what happend. I got emails and phone calls from other people that had the same experience, so this is deffinately not an isolated case or I would have never mentioned it. I am sorry I cannot take suck a loose attitude twards somthing as important as suspension, it could get real ugly if it failed at the right time. I got lucky that I didn't hit a wall at the track when mine broke, will you be as lucky?

Brian

 

[jimwood]

Completed it on Sunday morning.
K-Member installed, Control Arms installed, Sway bar relocation, Caster Camber Plates, Bump Steer kit, Steering Shaft, Machined Spindles, Coil Overs all around, Delrin Lower Control Arm Bushings, IRS Subframe bushings, New Rotors all the way around, New Pads all the way around, bleed braking system.

Some of the old parts

New parts:

Here you can see the new Delrin Lower Control Arm Bushing

The removal of the K-member required the support of the engine. I bought a Cherry picker but started putting it together, found that half the bolts were missing and decided to make a substitution. Worked Great, and cost 8 dollars. Building it is fairly self explanatory and worked awesome.

Okay and here are some before and after.
Before:

AFTER:

Basically the entire front suspension was replaced. And the rear was improved.


Now, I have yet to have it corner weighed and balanced, and I have not had it aligned, but just taking it out for a quick ride, the handling is AMAZING. Its a totally different car now. The wheel hop is better still there, but I dont get too much wheel hop at the track anyways.

Okay here are my thoughts on the entire project, for the guy who has never really done anything too extreme on their cars. The K-Member is not that tough, if you keep in mind the following: Air Tools, and either a "pickle puller" and a second set of hands with a hammer to get the spindle free from press on fittings. If you are machining anything on the spindle forget about doing yourself, the metal is too strong. I bought a 100 Roybi drill press, that didnt stand a chance, for the bump steer kit. Removing the springs is simple once you loosen the Control Arms.

The bushings are horrible. Absolutely horrible. I wish I would have paid for these, but glad that I didnt at the same time. If you can afford it have someone else install them for you.

If you decide to do the bushings yourself heed this advice IRS FRAME BUSHINGS, DO THE REARS FIRST, THEN RETURN THEM AND BOLT THEM IN, AND THEN DO THE FRONTS. DO NOT UNBOLT BOTH THE FRONT AND BACK AT THE SAME TIME. I never took the car off the jacks to get the rear IRS FRAME bushing back in place.

Second, when doing the Front of the control arms make sure the other side you are not working on is supported, it will make it a helluva lot easier to get the front of the lower control arm bushing in place. That was a bitch, and took me about 2 hours of blood, sweat and tears to figure out.

Third, there are two ways to remove bushings. If you are taking out the bushing and the metal cuffing on teh outside, ONLY FOR DELRIN, drill out the bushing and then use an air hammer to work the lip of the outside metal bushing and it will eventually come loose.

For Polyurethane bushings you retain the outside metal piece. SO use the LARGEST DRILL BIT POSSIBLE, and drill all around the sleeve. Dont walk the drill, unless you like buying drill bits, youll brake enough already. Once you have drilled all the way around the sleeve, then go at angles to connect the holes you have drilled, you can walk the drill at this point. Use a dremel to remove any excess rubber that you can pull out.

Brakes are simple, start doing them yourself. Bleeding brakes is also very easy. For rear brakes the calipers go back into the pistons by TURNING them, someone said you have to push them in, thats wrong. TURN THEM IN. The fronts can be pushed in easily. With all brakes and rotors in place, bleed the brakes.:thumbsup:

Back to the track soon...