Installed FW Adjuster & Quadrant, Questions

[DaveMan]

I just installed a Steeda double hook quadrant (got from a friend, used the closest hook to the firewall) and BBK firewall adjuster (stock clutch & cable). I adjusted it so that the throwout bearing is just barely touching the pressure plate because any looser and the clutch was engaging right at floor. According to the service manual the throwout bearing is suppose to just barely touch the pressure plate and that's how it was with the stock stuff in there.

So I went for a drive and it doesn't like to shift at high RPMs when I'm coming on to it. I turned the adjuster out more and it seemed to raise the pedal engagement more, which I like, and it shifts better at high RPMs, but there seems to be a slight delay before it goes into gear. I have not had the car long and cannot remember if it was like that before.

So I'm looking for info, can you guys slam gears and have it go right in? Or is there a slight restriction before it will go?

And what's the best way to know if it's adjusted correctly without taking the inspection plate off the transmission?

 

[SLPRCTM]

I kinda had the same shifting problem with the stock set-up. I ended up getting the Steeda high-ratio quadrant along with a fire wall adjuster and it is perfect now. I have a little play between the throw-out bearing and pressure plate fingers along with very easy shifting and a good pedal height engagement placement.

 

[DaveMan]

You have the quick release?

 

[SLPRCTM]

Yep. It is designed to pull the cable a little quicker/farther for faster shifts.

 

[DaveMan]

This setup should work that I have now though right?

What's the correct way to adjust it?

 

[SLPRCTM]

From what I was told, you want to adjust it so the TOB is just not quite touching the pressure plate. Otherwise you will burn up the TOB from it spinning too much if you keep it pressed against the pressure plate fingers.. Your set-up should work. How many miles are on your clutch? Almost sounds like you have a worn clutch.

 

[DaveMan]

I found a lot of info and know the correct way to adjust the clutch. The throw out bearing in these car's and most Mustangs (79+ as I read in a thread on here) are constant velocity type. This means that the bearing is made to ride on the pressure plate all the time with slight pressure as it's also designed to have light pressure on it.

You can to pull the clutch fork forward with 4-6 lbs of force and then adjust the cable to take the slack out and that preloads the throw out bearing like it should be.

I would have not believed it but it's in our service manuals and everyone I talk to in the industry say the same thing. I have not done it yet but will try tomorrow and report back.

 

[P49Y-CY]

this was the most recent thread that spoke of the quick release quadrant so i figured i would chime in

for the last year i had been running the upr triple hook and it has been working nicely. but recently i have been running out of adjustment at the firewall - it was getting real close.

so yesterday i swapped out for the steeda quick release quadrant i had laying around, and it really seems to work nicely so far. it is giving me alot more room at the firewall for me to use up as the clutch wears, and also i can tell that it really disengages the clutch more completely which helps with those high rpm shifts

:beer:

 

[SnakeBit]

This setup should work that I have now though right?

What's the correct way to adjust it?

I would start by adjusting it so that the pedal has 1/4" to 1/2" free play at the top, that is, with your hand touching the pedal at rest, you should be able to push it in 1/4" to 1/2" before feeling any resistance. That will get you in the right ballpark. Then make fine adjustments from there so your pedal engages where you like. If your firewall adjuster doesn't have a positive locking mechanism, make sure you scribe a line across both halves to mark your current setting. Makes it easy to see if it moves.