Installing a cat back on a Coyote using ramps/jack stands, who has done it?

[MattxFatal]

Have already done searching and really have not found a whole lot of info.

My new cat back just arrived for my 2014 and I am anxious to put it on.
From what I gather, it's damn near impossible to get the OTA pipe on without having the car on a lift.
Those that have succeeded, what methods did you use?
How high do I need the car to be?
I have a lowprofile jack that is good for like 24 inches AND I also have black rhino ramps.

Anybody have any ideas?
Trying to save myself $100.00 from paying a shop to put it on.

<-- Please accept a glimpse of my wife's bewbs as payment for your time.

-Matt

 

[fulanititoo8198]

I lifted the front onto ramps about 10" ramps and the rear I jacked the car up to the max it would go ( 21") Then I put it on jack stands from the frame so the axle would drop. I had to buy Extra High 6 ton jack stands to be able to reach high enough. Honestly if they are just charging 100 that's worth it.

 

[Nuar]

Payment accepted! :-D

I wen't under the car to do the catback... about 15 mins later it was back on the ground... no way in hell i would go through the pain... $100 is well worth the instal man.
Some people unbolt the rear end from the shock and take out the spring... if you're hell bent on doing it yourself than thats most likely the way to do it the quickest.

 

[Tuffnuts23]

Just jack the car from the rear jacking points so the axle sags, throw in a couple jack stands so you don't squish yourself, and get it done. It's very easy.

 

[heart attack]

Jacked up the back as high as I could. Let the axle sag with the shock bolts undone. Took about a minute to get it out and never had to take the springs out.

 

[gimmie11s]

Just jack the car from the rear jacking points so the axle sags, throw in a couple jack stands so you don't squish yourself, and get it done. It's very easy.

^^^ this

Super easy job if you have jack stands and hand tools.

I installed a magnaflow O/R x pipe, JPC o/a pipes and GT500s in about 2.5 hours.

 

[Torchy]

Jacked up the back as high as I could. Let the axle sag with the shock bolts undone. Took about a minute to get it out and never had to take the springs out.

This and getting the front up helps too.

 

[MattxFatal]

Thanks for the replies guys, have some additional questions.
Just got the car a few weeks ago and I haven't been under it yet.
The shock bolts that I need to undo, you guys are just talking about the ones that mount to the actual axle? Also, I plan to drive the front end onto ramps then get the rear up with jackstands. I'm sure there is a spot on the subframe for the stands but where can I Jack it up from? I'm sure Tue pumpkin is a bad idea but is there a good spot near the center so I won't have to alternate? Not a fan of that idea either. Thanks dudes, MOAR tiddies in it for y'all.

 

[CSG]

Be careful not to damage the brake lines with the axle dangling and the shocks not connected.

 

[NC85]

www.kwik-lift.com

Picking mine up Friday.

 

[scott9050]

www.kwiklift.com

Picking mine up Friday.

http://www.kwik-lift.com/

 

[chao5.0]

I installed my 3" SW cat-back on jack stands, its easy. one tip is to un bolt the rear shocks to get maximum droop from the rear axel that will ease installation. a common sense thing to is if you are using jack stands don't put them on the axel housing, instead put them on the rear LCA mounting location on the chassis. I was able to pull the stock OTA pipes out in one piece with a little wiggling and install my exhaust without much hassle, my biggest hassle is getting it lined up and keeping the 3" system from hitting.

 

[2013GT'ed]

It is pretty easy man, took me 45 minutes taking my time. Just jack her up how they said to and get it done. I did the headers all the way back in my car on jack stands.

 

[matt5058]

Took me maybe 40 minutes from start to finish to install Roush Axle Backs with hand tools and jack stands. I imagine doing the whole catback couldn't take more than an hour and a half. It definitely helps to have someone assist of course.

 

[chao5.0]

Thanks for the replies guys, have some additional questions.
Just got the car a few weeks ago and I haven't been under it yet.
The shock bolts that I need to undo, you guys are just talking about the ones that mount to the actual axle? Also, I plan to drive the front end onto ramps then get the rear up with jackstands. I'm sure there is a spot on the subframe for the stands but where can I Jack it up from? I'm sure Tue pumpkin is a bad idea but is there a good spot near the center so I won't have to alternate? Not a fan of that idea either. Thanks dudes, MOAR tiddies in it for y'all.

see my earlier post but yes the bolts you will remove are on the axel, take them off but be sure the jack is under the axel and then lower it slowly, also undo the sway bar where the links bolt to the chassis, this will give you maximum droop for the install. just keep the jack under the pumpkin when its drooped so you don't stretch any brake lines to far and you can wiggle the axel to allow any pipes to move around the axel housing. I did the install by myself but I didn't time myself because I knew aligning the new system was going to take time and making sure nothing was contacting anything with the new 3" pipes.

 

[5.0GT]

Here what you have to do in detail. I only got one side without take the spring out and wish I just took it out and saved time.

- Drive on the ramp.

- Jack the rear ( put the floor jack a little to the front of the square on side skirt because that's where the jack stands will go) put the jack stands as high as you can. be sure you're on a level floor and make sure the front tires won't move.

- The axle will be hanging by now. Put the floor jack beneath it and support it with just around one inch rise.

- Unbolt the sway bar from the axle if it's on the way of the shock and push it back (can't remember if the stock is in the way or not).

- Unbolt the bottom shock absorber bolt (ONE SIDE AT A TIME) (ONE SIDE AT A TIME) (ONE SIDE AT A TIME) (ONE SIDE AT A TIME) (ONE SIDE AT A TIME)

- Take the spring out

- Take the over-axle pipe out

- Put the new pipe on ( most likely you can put the new ones at the end since most aftermarket are two piece, that's up to you)

- Put the spring back in with the same side the you took it out ( I usually use the writing on them as reference see if there's any)

- Tighten the Shock absorber bolt and nut

- Do the same for the other side.

You'll need a torque wrench of course ( Oreilly's and autozone rent those, but you should have this thing in your garage and always use it on tires and pretty much everything else)

Shock absorber lower bolt (85 ft-lbs)

Sway bar bolts ( 52 ft-lbs)

Wheel nuts (100 ft-lb)

GREAT habit when under the car is to put the wheels under the car for head and upper torso insurance

Let me know if you have any questions

 

[MattxFatal]

Thank you so much. You guyz are my franz!
Bewbs all around!

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-Matt