Installing OD crank damper

[Cman01]

I have my ATI 10% damper sitting at home and just want to get some questions I have out of the way so when it's time to install I'm prepared.

Did you guys change out your front crank seal when you installed your damper?

Is there a way to tell from looking at the engine outside where the crank position is (#1 TDC)? There is a keyway on the crank snout, the ATI has 2 keyway slots on the hub. I would like to install the damper in the proper position (it could be installed either #1 TDC or #6 TDC). Any marks on the stock damper?

Doing the 10% damper means there is a tab that has to be grinded down and/or removed on the timing cover?? Where is this tab?? A picture showing where the tab is will work for me.

TIA

Tony

I bought a M12x1.5mm threaded rod the other day and again will be making my own damper install tool (did the same thing when I did my HCI install on my Z (did an ATI 10% UD damper on that ride)). I have enough material to make 3 install tools and still have left over material and I did a 100mm tap that I can use to chase the threads in the snout before my Kinetic crank stud install.

 

[jenkins_1120]

here is what I found

 

[Catmonkey]

I didn't change my front seal, but I have pretty low miles. The tab you're referring to is the boss the crank position sensor screws into. It's at the 9 o'clock position. You can't miss it. With the larger diameter blower pulley you will have interference with the belt. I ground mine with the timing cover on a bench. I don't think it will be that easy on the car, but I guess it depends what tool you intend to use. Don't forget to shorten the bolt for the crank position sensor either.

This pic of the crank sprocket will give you an idea where the keyway should be for TDC. You have to realize the timing mark will be at 12 o'clock.

 

[sleek98]

I pulled the fan and cut the tab with a 4" cut off wheel and dremel. I cut mine to clear a 15% incase I ever wanted to go with one. Its not hard just take your time.

FYI none of the auto parts stores 3 jaw pullers worked. They had to much of an arch in them so they would hit the pulley before fully seating on the back.

I ended up buying 2, 2 jaw pullers from home depot to get the small arch jaws (they are almost straight) and used the 3 jaw base from the auto parts store to get the stock pulley off.

 

[Cman01]

I didn't change my front seal, but I have pretty low miles. The tab you're referring to is the boss the crank position sensor screws into. It's at the 9 o'clock position. You can't miss it. With the larger diameter blower pulley you will have interference with the belt. I ground mine with the timing cover on a bench. I don't think it will be that easy on the car, but I guess it depends what tool you intend to use. Don't forget to shorten the bolt for the crank position sensor either.

This pic of the crank sprocket will give you an idea where the keyway should be for TDC. You have to realize the timing mark will be at 12 o'clock.

View attachment 1468793

Thanks again Catmonkey for the info.

Ok so just to confirm with the keyway shown in your pic at kinda 10 o'clock #1 or #6 cyl will be TDC correct?

If that is the case then I will know which way to install the ATI (when I position the damper with 1 of the keyway slots at that position the TDC mark on the damper is @ 12 o'clock, putting the other keyway slot in that same position and TDC mark on damper will be @ 6 o'clock.

 

[Catmonkey]

Technically, the 1 and 6 piston will be at the top of the cylinder at the same time. The crankshaft will rotate twice for the full combustion cycle will take place. The cam is going to determine which cylinder is on compression, with the other piston being on the exhaust stroke. The crank marks should be the same regardless. The key way would be at approximately in the range of 5:30 with the 1 and 6 at the top of the cylinder.

 

[sleek98]

since i have the screen shots already ill add them here for you.

Thats for a stock bolt, I tq my crank stud to 145 ft lbs per their install instructions.

 

[blowbye]

Let me know how your kinetic stud goes in... Mine does not seem to want to fit.... It wont slide deep enough into the crank to start engaging the threads... Im gonna give it a buff job tomarrow..... Its gonna be tight

 

[Catmonkey]

Assuming all GT500 cranks have the same machining profile, I would have to think there is either rust or some other crud that's preventing the stud from going all the way in. You might try something like a bore brush for a shotgun or if it's really crusty a flex hone brush. Using an old bolt and cutting a couple of grooves lengthwise through the threads will make a decent thread chaser. The threads are a little too deep for most thread chasers to work. Mine must have been pretty clean. It just screwed right in by hand.

 

[sleek98]

Mine screwed right in by hand as well.

 

[blowbye]

Threads are fine... I used a brass brush on the inside and blew it out with air several times. My engine is on a stand and i can look right down the crank and cannot see anything... Perhaps there is a burr in there.. I picked up a little buffer wheel that i should be able to get in there. This would be a nightmare if it was in the car. Just wanted to know if anyone else had issues. Looks like its just me... Time to buff away!

 

[djniknala]

Are you putting the correct end into the crank? I know stupid question but sometimes it’s just that simple. The crank and nut sides are different pitches. Mine went in just fine with some trash in there. I used the old bolt in and out a couple of times after spraying WD40 in it to get out the trash.

 

[Cman01]

one side has the female allen head end that side faces out and has finer thread pitch than the crank side.

 

[blowbye]

one side has the female allen head end that side faces out and has finer thread pitch than the crank side.

Correct. Stud just doesnt want to slide back far enough to start engaging threads...

 

[blowbye]

Well... I took a dingle ball hone into the crank snout. Had the inside spotless. Still no luck... Ended up taking .002 off the stud in order for it to fit. Perhaps my crank was machined different.....

 

[Cman01]

Stock crank?

This would be a first I heard of this, maybe send Mitchell this link so he can have a look at your issue.

Nice machining on that crank stud slap some antiseize on that surface so it doesn't rust up on you in the snout.

 

[blowbye]

Stock cobra jet crank. Not the stock gt500 crank.

 

[Cman01]

That could be why it wasn't fitting, I think the crank stud kit from Kinetik is made for stock crank GT500 engines. I guess for Cobra Jet cranks it needs to be 0.002" smaller for it to fit inside the snout.

No biggie, looks like you took care of it pretty well..................isn't modding fun????