Intermittent power/MPG Loss, some surging.

[CharlieR]

In the last 60 days or so I've been having inconsistent power/fuel mileage some slight surging on slow speed cruise and wot. I went to track to test .063 jet and went .3 slower N/A than usual after getting 18mpg on the way to the track(usually 25-27). Tried a reflash(I know tunes don't change but some bad stuff can be learned) and everything seemed good. Then began happening again It went this way intermittent loss of power and mpg for about 6 weeks(reflash helped 1st time not again). Then FINALLY check engine light comes on. P0020: Camshaft actuator intake cam bank 2 open circuit. So I unplug re-plug, erase code all good for a day then it starts happening again(no code though) code comes on a couple days later and I roll to ford thinking "I'm about to buy an actuator and have it installed". Ford tech checks code and unplugs the connector checks actuator and all good it's the connector(ordered) it has broken inside and it would lose contact intermittently. Guess the Ti-VCT helps.

If this info is not helpful Mods are welcome to delete thread, just thought if anyone had this issue it may help to be here.

 

[mhyjek]

In the last 60 days or so I've been having inconsistent power/fuel mileage some slight surging on slow speed cruise and wot. I went to track to test .063 jet and went .3 slower N/A than usual after getting 18mpg on the way to the track(usually 25-27). Tried a reflash(I know tunes don't change but some bad stuff can be learned) and everything seemed good. Then began happening again It went this way intermittent loss of power and mpg for about 6 weeks(reflash helped 1st time not again). Then FINALLY check engine light comes on. P0020: Camshaft actuator intake cam bank 2 open circuit. So I unplug re-plug, erase code all good for a day then it starts happening again(no code though) code comes on a couple days later and I roll to ford thinking "I'm about to buy an actuator and have it installed". Ford tech checks code and unplugs the connector checks actuator and all good it's the connector(ordered) it has broken inside and it would lose contact intermittently. Guess the Ti-VCT helps.


If this info is not helpful Mods are welcome to delete thread, just thought if anyone had this issue it may help to be here.

So from what I understand your car went slower with nitrous than NA because your TVIC wasn't working because the plug was bad? Makes sense since the cams couldn't phase... My question is does this do any damage to them or is there some kind of safety built in. I wouldn't delete the thread it is useful for others who might throw this code or have similar issues.

 

[CharlieR]

So from what I understand your car went slower with nitrous than NA because your TVIC wasn't working because the plug was bad? Makes sense since the cams couldn't phase... My question is does this do any damage to them or is there some kind of safety built in. I wouldn't delete the thread it is useful for others who might throw this code or have similar issues.

No, I went slower N/A to N/A. I was told that it "locks in" and will not do any damage, just poor mileage and loss of power.

 

[mhyjek]

No, I went slower N/A to N/A. I was told that it "locks in" and will not do any damage, just poor mileage and loss of power.

That's good info to know!

 

[Bad Intention]

That is good news that they were able to find the problem. So when you get it back we need to go to the track and see how it does.

 

[haVesoV777]

Yeah it basically goes into "limp" mode, a lot of cars have that safety feature added these days its good to see they got it sorted out. Just out of curiosity though, did they cover it under warranty? Or you just had them diagnose it and get the part for you?

 

[CharlieR]

That is good news that they were able to find the problem. So when you get it back we need to go to the track and see how it does.

Al, when we go anywhere my car will always be "TSO". The Slow One.

Yeah it basically goes into "limp" mode, a lot of cars have that safety feature added these days its good to see they got it sorted out. Just out of curiosity though, did they cover it under warranty? Or you just had them diagnose it and get the part for you?

Warranty, they were extremely helpful said no "mods" caused it and siad they'd cover it even if the full harness had to be swapped(it doesn't )

 

[CharlieR]

UPDATE: It's fixed, and it's a night and day difference. I had been thinking seriously about adding a little gear after switching to 305/45/18 tires because it just didn't hit the tire hard enough to hook. Gotta get to the track to be sure but I don't feel it will be an issue anymore. Tech noticed a little "whining" from rear(it does but I would have never expected warranty) so I can bring it in for repair. Yea! My Dealer ftw. :bowdown:

 

[DD2013 5.0]

UPDATE: It's fixed, and it's a night and day difference. I had been thinking seriously about adding a little gear after switching to 305/45/18 tires because it just didn't hit the tire hard enough to hook. Gotta get to the track to be sure but I don't feel it will be an issue anymore. Tech noticed a little "whining" from rear(it does but I would have never expected warranty) so I can bring it in for repair. Yea! My Dealer ftw. :bowdown:

So just so I understand (because I'm a bit in the slow side) that you DID in fact take your car into the dealer WITH the mods in place?

 

[CharlieR]

Was flashed to stock(so they could read codes)and bottle was out but line was in, OR x-pipe was in and converter was in. That's all my mods though so "kinda".