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The Terminator
Suspension Modifications
IRS bushings - budget build
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<blockquote data-quote="1Kona_Venom" data-source="post: 16170717" data-attributes="member: 101429"><p>I thought that way when I did mine. Here is what I concluded</p><p>(for a street car/daily or non daily driver)</p><p></p><p>My rear diff leaked so for a quick, on a budget fix, Max Motorsports SOLID DIFF bushings and an IRS brace. Held fine with zero issues at 550rwhp.</p><p></p><p>Later, my car had 89k stock miles. So, yes, "Do it right, no corners cut" was the approach.</p><p>Full EVERYTHING from milled diff cover, to everything FTBR sells for the IRS. Did all the work myself and than took the car to get an alignment. $$$.</p><p></p><p>Did the FTBR kit work? Hell yes. With H&R springs and R888 tires it PLANTED 650rwhp and no broken pieces after 15k miles.</p><p>Was there noise? Yes. The solid end of the adjustable toe links would articulate and pop at low speeds (>15mph). There was minimal noise increase related to the solid diff bushings. But that's what happens when moving parts can transmit noise through a solid versus a poly/rubber.</p><p></p><p>It's a trade off. If you want performance, and piece of mind, what are you willing to give up and or gain?</p><p></p><p>Conclusion:</p><p>- 96% of the people DO NOT need the FTBR kit. Me included. (this experience also played into how I did my Shelby suspension upgrades last year)</p><p></p><p>-Could have gone with poly and been fine for my needs.</p><p></p><p>-As for having to do it again? </p><p>I sold my car 15k miles later. And poly would have lasted at least another 50k miles if not more. Shit, the rubber pieces were still there and intact, just not doing as well as poly would have done.</p><p></p><p>So to the OP, are you gonna have the car long enough to put another 50k+ miles on it and keep the power levels on the lower side? </p><p></p><p>Poly along with solid diff bushings are fine</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="1Kona_Venom, post: 16170717, member: 101429"] I thought that way when I did mine. Here is what I concluded (for a street car/daily or non daily driver) My rear diff leaked so for a quick, on a budget fix, Max Motorsports SOLID DIFF bushings and an IRS brace. Held fine with zero issues at 550rwhp. Later, my car had 89k stock miles. So, yes, "Do it right, no corners cut" was the approach. Full EVERYTHING from milled diff cover, to everything FTBR sells for the IRS. Did all the work myself and than took the car to get an alignment. $$$. Did the FTBR kit work? Hell yes. With H&R springs and R888 tires it PLANTED 650rwhp and no broken pieces after 15k miles. Was there noise? Yes. The solid end of the adjustable toe links would articulate and pop at low speeds (>15mph). There was minimal noise increase related to the solid diff bushings. But that's what happens when moving parts can transmit noise through a solid versus a poly/rubber. It's a trade off. If you want performance, and piece of mind, what are you willing to give up and or gain? Conclusion: - 96% of the people DO NOT need the FTBR kit. Me included. (this experience also played into how I did my Shelby suspension upgrades last year) -Could have gone with poly and been fine for my needs. -As for having to do it again? I sold my car 15k miles later. And poly would have lasted at least another 50k miles if not more. Shit, the rubber pieces were still there and intact, just not doing as well as poly would have done. So to the OP, are you gonna have the car long enough to put another 50k+ miles on it and keep the power levels on the lower side? Poly along with solid diff bushings are fine [/QUOTE]
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