It’s been a while but I’m back

[BCICAN]

You can find everything you need in the Ford Service Manual here....

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Purchase/ViewProduct

Its $21.95 for 3 Days. If you need more help dont hestitate to ask! Good Luck @BCICAN


Lightning FastElectrical Automotive Repair
PM Me or [email protected]
Website:https: Lightning Fast Electrical Automotive Repair LLC
Remote or Local (On Site) Technical Repair

Thanks I did do this and paid for it a few times and it has been very helpful I also printed off some things to keep for records etc but I must be missing something . I went ahead and bought the 14290 harness because I didn’t have the best confidence in my splicing ability or want a bandaid on the car . That said I have pulled the original disconnected checked the plugs etc to prepare for the new harness and has been easy till the very end . It’s a huge harness and had no issues till the very last ones I got to I don’t know how to even get to them I pulled the drivers seat so I could see everything easier but I am not sure what to do next . I have been able to disconnect check the whole P.I.A harness except for what I circled in yellow . Do I need to pull the dash off ? Or am I missing something

 

[Vinnie_B]

Thanks I did do this and paid for it a few times and it has been very helpful I also printed off some things to keep for records etc but I must be missing something . I went ahead and bought the 14290 harness because I didn’t have the best confidence in my splicing ability or want a bandaid on the car . That said I have pulled the original disconnected checked the plugs etc to prepare for the new harness and has been easy till the very end . It’s a huge harness and had no issues till the very last ones I got to I don’t know how to even get to them I pulled the drivers seat so I could see everything easier but I am not sure what to do next . I have been able to disconnect check the whole P.I.A harness except for what I circled in yellow . Do I need to pull the dash off ? Or am I missing something

Based on the drawings you have and the thumbnails pictured either you reach under the dash if you can even access the harness or maybe try pulling out the cluster to access the harness before you result to pulling the whole dash. Its possible maybe by pulling drivers seat it may give you some more room to work under the dash instead of pulling the dash as well. Last resort should be pulling the whole dash. You have options.

 

[Vinnie_B]

If I was closer to you, I would have had this shelby's isssue your experiencing solved and fixed in 8 hrs and the spice properly repaired. Kudos to you for trying to do this yourself!! MUCH RESPECT!!!! Good luck @BCICAN

 

[BCICAN]

Based on the drawings you have and the thumbnails pictured either you reach under the dash if you can even access the harness or maybe try pulling out the cluster to access the harness before you result to pulling the whole dash. Its possible maybe by pulling drivers seat it may give you some more room to work under the dash instead of pulling the dash as well. Last resort should be pulling the whole dash. Looking at the drawing. Looks like there are connectors you could connect to and leave the under the dash harness alone for now and just connect the rest of the harness in the engine bay. You have options.





View attachment 1793902View attachment 1793901

Based on the drawings you have and the thumbnails pictured either you reach under the dash if you can even access the harness or maybe try pulling out the cluster to access the harness before you result to pulling the whole dash. Its possible maybe by pulling drivers seat it may give you some more room to work under the dash instead of pulling the dash as well. Last resort should be pulling the whole dash. Looking at the drawing. Looks like there are connectors you could connect to and leave the under the dash harness alone for now and just connect the rest of the harness in the engine bay. You have options.





View attachment 1793902View attachment 1793901

The picture is one I downloaded from that site but I think it’s confusing me more. The one part of the harness I circled just kind of disappears after it goes behind the

Based on the drawings you have and the thumbnails pictured either you reach under the dash if you can even access the harness or maybe try pulling out the cluster to access the harness before you result to pulling the whole dash. Its possible maybe by pulling drivers seat it may give you some more room to work under the dash instead of pulling the dash as well. Last resort should be pulling the whole dash. You have options.





View attachment 1793902View attachment 1793901

I got that picture from the website you suggested but from under the dash it doesn’t look as simple to me as the picture makes it . I can’t see the longer wire under the dash after it goes behind and can’t get my head past the clutch and brake peddle without risking getting my head stuck lol the part circled in yellow on the new harness are the ones I’m trying to get to. And from what I see on the existing harness it disappears and I can’t really see it again and it doesn’t seem to match the picture I printed out from ford :-( very confusing

 

[BCICAN]

If I was closer to you i would have had this shelby's isssue your experiencing solved and fixed in 8 hrs a the spice properly repaired. Kudos to you for trying to do this yourself!! MUCH RESPECT!!!! Good luck @BCICAN

Thanks I wish you were closer to me too ! lol it seems like something that shouldn’t be hard but it is for me it’s very frustrating

 

[Vinnie_B]

Thanks I wish you were closer to me too ! lol it seems like something that shouldn’t be hard but it is for me it’s very frustrating

Hang in there....hopefully this resolves soon for you. Don't hesitate to reach out if you have a question.

 

[BCICAN]

Hang in there....hopefully this resolves soon for you. Don't hesitate to reach out if you have a question.

Thank you

 

[BCICAN]

Hang in there....hopefully this resolves soon for you. Don't hesitate to reach out if you have a question.

I have found all of the wire connections ! None of them look damaged which is good . So At this point I’m trying to get all the tape and connectors unattached ,which is taking a while because it is in there tight with so much tape , ,but after I do I can pull the old one out and start putting the new one in.

 

[BCICAN]

Hang in there....hopefully this resolves soon for you. Don't hesitate to reach out if you have a question.

Ok I got the harness in and luckily I didn’t have to pull the car completely apart haha. I got the entire harness installed and put back the way the previous one was , the ford picture I had was making me think I was missing something that wasn’t there . That said I am still getting the U0401 code which I had before I started messing with the electrical so it isn’t from what I did . The first time I drove the car it drove great and I knew it would need a drive cycle so I ignored the emissions codes but the ac wasn’t working the best. The next time I started the car when I came back a few hours later the car had a no crank no start. The battery was/is fine but I left it on a slow charge overnight to be sure but still same no crank no start the next day but dash lights come on etc . I checked the clutch pedal positron switch to verify it was plugged in and it was . I did another scan with the think car and it is still showing me the U0401 code but I also did a scan on what the think car was saying was the issue and it is telling me I have short to ground . When I did the scan the driver door was open and hood was up . The keyless remote is also acting strange but it still locks and unlocks the doors it just doesn’t do the honk when locked like usual . I’m also not getting an antitheft theft alert light but the dash is showing a check engine light now.
So does this sound like a ground issue ? Or something else . The scan is saying short to ground for the e-brake but brake seems to be working fine .

 

[Vinnie_B]

Ok I got the harness in and luckily I didn’t have to pull the car completely apart haha. I got the entire harness installed and put back the way the previous one was , the ford picture I had was making me think I was missing something that wasn’t there . That said I am still getting the U0401 code which I had before I started messing with the electrical so it isn’t from what I did . The first time I drove the car it drove great and I knew it would need a drive cycle so I ignored the emissions codes but the ac wasn’t working the best. The next time I started the car when I came back a few hours later the car had a no crank no start. The battery was/is fine but I left it on a slow charge overnight to be sure but still same no crank no start the next day but dash lights come on etc . I checked the clutch pedal positron switch to verify it was plugged in and it was . I did another scan with the think car and it is still showing me the U0401 code but I also did a scan on what the think car was saying was the issue and it is telling me I have short to ground . When I did the scan the driver door was open and hood was up . The keyless remote is also acting strange but it still locks and unlocks the doors it just doesn’t do the honk when locked like usual . I’m also not getting an antitheft theft alert light but the dash is showing a check engine light now.
So does this sound like a ground issue ? Or something else . The scan is saying short to ground for the e-brake but brake seems to be working fine .

Whenever you take on a project you always run Pre-Post scan to compare. With that said... if these faults were not there prior, it has something to do with your previous harness install. Go over your (1) attachment and see if any of those BCM faults are related to the harness you just installed. If they are check (unconnect/reconnect your connectors and check all your fuses and grounds related to the DTC BCM faults. (PLEASE DISCONNECT BATTERY NEG CABLE PRIOR).


Issue U0401 you are experiencing:



Code U0401 stands for Invalid Data Received from ECM/PCM.

The engine control module is the computer than manages engine operation. The engine control module (ECM) receives input from sensors throughout the vehicle. It then uses that information to powertrain-specific outputs, such as the fuel injectors or coil packs.

In modern vehicles, the ECM communicates with other modules via the Controller Area Network (CAN) bus. When it comes to older vehicles, modules typically communicate via a more primitive, serial data network. This is partially because older vehicles have a limited number of modules onboard.

The CAN Network consists of two lines called CAN High and CAN Low. Can High transmits data at a rate of 500k bits/second, whereas CAN Low transmits data at a rate of 125k bits/second. There are two terminating resistors at the ends of the CAN bus.



Network Topology

****Code U0401 indicates one or more modules onboard the vehicle has received invalid data from the ECM****

U0401 symptoms​

• Illuminated warning lights (Check Engine Lights)
• ECM-related performance issues

Common causes for U0401​

Code U0401 is typically caused by one of the following:

• Dead battery or damaged battery
• ECM problems
• A problem with the CAN bus

How to diagnose and repair U0401​

Perform a preliminary inspection​

Sometimes U0401 can pop up intermittently, or it can result from a dead battery. This is especially true if the code is a history code and not current. Clear the code and see if it returns. If it does, the next step is to perform a visual inspection. A trained eye can check for issues such as broken wires and loose connections. If a problem is found, the issue should be repaired and the code cleared. If nothing is discovered, check for technical service bulletins (TSBs). TSBs are recommended diagnostic and repair procedures put out by the vehicle manufacturer. Finding a related TSB can greatly reduce diagnostic time.

Check the battery​

The ECM needs proper voltage to operate. Before doing anything else, the battery and charging system should be checked for proper operation and repaired as needed. Then, clear the codes and see if they return.

Check for other DTCs​

Additional diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) may indicate problems elsewhere that are affecting ECM operation. For example, multiple communication DTCs may indicate a problem with the CAN network. Any additional DTCs should be addressed prior to diagnosing U0401.

In the case where multiple communication DTCs are stored, diagnosis will shift to the CAN bus. Like any other electrical circuit, the bus can be checked for problems such as opens and shorts. Bus testing typically starts at the data link connector, either with a digital multimeter (DMM) or a breakout box. Pin 6 of the datalink connector is CAN High, whereas pin 14 is CAN low. If a problem is detected, further testing and repair of the CAN bus can be competed as needed.

Check for a faulty control module​

If U0401 is the only DTC stored, the ECM module itself should be checked. The easiest was to start this process is by attempting to communicate with the ECM using a diagnostic scan tool. Once connected to the vehicle, the tool acts like just another module on the network. It can be used to address the ECM module. If the module does not respond, there is a problem with it.

Before condemning the module, it's important to check its circuit. Like any other electronic device, the ECM module must have proper power and ground. This can be checked using a DMM.

If the module's circuit it good, yet it still won't communicate, it is likely faulty. Before replacing the module, however, its software should be checked. Often times a module can be reprogrammed instead of replaced.

**Found this information on this particular communication code here: Better than I could explain or write it.

U0401 - OBD II Trouble Code: Invalid Data Received from ECM/PCM

Code U0401 indicates Invalid Data Received From ECM/PCM "A". Learn more about causes, symptoms, and diagnostics for code U0401.

repairpal.com

*You are experiencing a very difficult problem to understand and diagnose properly.

 

[Vinnie_B]

The most reasonable way to diagnose this issue (Network Fault U0401) is with Ford IDS Network Test/Live Network Monitor. I urge you to find someone (Professionally Experienced) who can perform this communication diagnostic test. I performed this test many times for customers with fords. If an error occurs in a module receiving or transmitting a signal a fault is generated.

Lightning FastElectrical Automotive Repair
PM Me or [email protected]
Website:https: Lightning Fast Electrical Automotive Repair LLC
Remote or Local (On Site) Technical Repair

lightning fast electrical automotive repair llc - Google Search

 

[LS WUT]

Because you asked again. Please.. contact… @13COBRA and let him fix it..

 

[BCICAN]

Whenever you take on a project you always run Pre-Post scan to compare. With that said... if these faults were not there prior, it has something to do with your previous harness install. Go over your (1) attachment and see if any of those BCM faults are related to the harness you just installed. If they are check (unconnect/reconnect your connectors and check all your fuses and grounds related to the DTC BCM faults. (PLEASE DISCONNECT BATTERY NEG CABLE PRIOR).


Issue U0401 you are experiencing:



Code U0401 stands for Invalid Data Received from ECM/PCM.

The engine control module is the computer than manages engine operation. The engine control module (ECM) receives input from sensors throughout the vehicle. It then uses that information to powertrain-specific outputs, such as the fuel injectors or coil packs.

In modern vehicles, the ECM communicates with other modules via the Controller Area Network (CAN) bus. When it comes to older vehicles, modules typically communicate via a more primitive, serial data network. This is partially because older vehicles have a limited number of modules onboard.

The CAN Network consists of two lines called CAN High and CAN Low. Can High transmits data at a rate of 500k bits/second, whereas CAN Low transmits data at a rate of 125k bits/second. There are two terminating resistors at the ends of the CAN bus.



Network Topology

****Code U0401 indicates one or more modules onboard the vehicle has received invalid data from the ECM****

U0401 symptoms​

• Illuminated warning lights (Check Engine Lights)
• ECM-related performance issues

Common causes for U0401​

Code U0401 is typically caused by one of the following:

• Dead battery or damaged battery
• ECM problems
• A problem with the CAN bus

How to diagnose and repair U0401​

Perform a preliminary inspection​

Sometimes U0401 can pop up intermittently, or it can result from a dead battery. This is especially true if the code is a history code and not current. Clear the code and see if it returns. If it does, the next step is to perform a visual inspection. A trained eye can check for issues such as broken wires and loose connections. If a problem is found, the issue should be repaired and the code cleared. If nothing is discovered, check for technical service bulletins (TSBs). TSBs are recommended diagnostic and repair procedures put out by the vehicle manufacturer. Finding a related TSB can greatly reduce diagnostic time.

Check the battery​

The ECM needs proper voltage to operate. Before doing anything else, the battery and charging system should be checked for proper operation and repaired as needed. Then, clear the codes and see if they return.

Check for other DTCs​

Additional diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) may indicate problems elsewhere that are affecting ECM operation. For example, multiple communication DTCs may indicate a problem with the CAN network. Any additional DTCs should be addressed prior to diagnosing U0401.

In the case where multiple communication DTCs are stored, diagnosis will shift to the CAN bus. Like any other electrical circuit, the bus can be checked for problems such as opens and shorts. Bus testing typically starts at the data link connector, either with a digital multimeter (DMM) or a breakout box. Pin 6 of the datalink connector is CAN High, whereas pin 14 is CAN low. If a problem is detected, further testing and repair of the CAN bus can be competed as needed.

Check for a faulty control module​

If U0401 is the only DTC stored, the ECM module itself should be checked. The easiest was to start this process is by attempting to communicate with the ECM using a diagnostic scan tool. Once connected to the vehicle, the tool acts like just another module on the network. It can be used to address the ECM module. If the module does not respond, there is a problem with it.

Before condemning the module, it's important to check its circuit. Like any other electronic device, the ECM module must have proper power and ground. This can be checked using a DMM.

If the module's circuit it good, yet it still won't communicate, it is likely faulty. Before replacing the module, however, its software should be checked. Often times a module can be reprogrammed instead of replaced.

**Found this information on this particular communication code here: Better than I could explain or write it.

U0401 - OBD II Trouble Code: Invalid Data Received from ECM/PCM

Code U0401 indicates Invalid Data Received From ECM/PCM "A". Learn more about causes, symptoms, and diagnostics for code U0401.

repairpal.com

*You are experiencing a very difficult problem to understand and diagnose properly.

Thanks ,I always unplug the battery before doing any work on the car to be on the safe side and do a diagnostic scan then scan after I am done . the U401 code is not new it has been there since I took it to Tifosi performance last year, sometimes it went away but for the most part it has always come back . As for the ground issues they could have been there too . The think car scan only showed the bad grounds after I singled out different things for it to focus on, I did that after seeing a utube talking about changing the starter motor because if a no crank no start problem and they commented on the bad ground it had . The scanners I have used and who I have had look at the car have told me the ECU is good but i know things and people ,including myself ,can be wrong . I didn’t find the bad plug until February of this year and I would bet it has been there a long time but I was hoping that changing of the harness would fix all of the cars issues but it didn’t. I haven’t jacked the car up to look yet because I haven’t had the time because I have been busy but wanted to ask here to see if anyone had any insight or suggestions.

 

[BCICAN]

The most reasonable way to diagnose this issue (Network Fault U0401) is with Ford IDS Network Test/Live Network Monitor. I urge you to find someone (Professionally Experienced) who can perform this communication diagnostic test. I performed this test many times for customers with fords. If an error occurs in a module receiving or transmitting a signal a fault is generated.
View attachment 1795984


Lightning FastElectrical Automotive Repair
PM Me or [email protected]
Website:https: Lightning Fast Electrical Automotive Repair LLC
Remote or Local (On Site) Technical Repair

lightning fast electrical automotive repair llc - Google Search

Thanks , I have someone I will call to do that.

 

[biminiLX]

Vinnie so how much is an IDS tool? for hobbyist use?
Ever make financial sense if you have multiple cars/friends with S197/S550 and swap cars?
I know I’m calling you first regardless
Good luck on the repair BCICAN!
-J

 

[Vinnie_B]

Vinnie so how much is an IDS tool? for hobbyist use?
Ever make financial sense if you have multiple cars/friends with S197/S550 and swap cars?
I know I’m calling you first regardless
Good luck on the repair BCICAN!
-J

First.....anything I can do for you or any member here on SVTP would be a pleasure and free!!!

Right now it very diffficult to obtain a VCM 3 new (Latest Greatest). I think most hobbyist would be fine with a VCM 2. You can find authentic models of VCM 2 on ebay sometimes at reasonable prices (Beaware of counterfeit products). You still need to buy the software as well from motorcraft to beable to use the scanner. Info on the hardware and software can be found in these links. Any questions on how to use or getting started I would be happy to help!

Ford VCM 2 for sale | eBay

Get the best deals for Ford VCM 2 at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!

www.ebay.com

https://rotunda.service-solutions.com/en-US/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?SKU=164-R9865

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/diagnostic/Support?channelId=50&categoryId=277

Ford Service Manuals on any vehicle or truck from 1994 - Present

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Purchase/ViewProduct

 

[Vinnie_B]

Ok I got the harness in and luckily I didn’t have to pull the car completely apart haha. I got the entire harness installed and put back the way the previous one was , the ford picture I had was making me think I was missing something that wasn’t there . That said I am still getting the U0401 code which I had before I started messing with the electrical so it isn’t from what I did . The first time I drove the car it drove great and I knew it would need a drive cycle so I ignored the emissions codes but the ac wasn’t working the best. The next time I started the car when I came back a few hours later the car had a no crank no start. The battery was/is fine but I left it on a slow charge overnight to be sure but still same no crank no start the next day but dash lights come on etc . I checked the clutch pedal positron switch to verify it was plugged in and it was . I did another scan with the think car and it is still showing me the U0401 code but I also did a scan on what the think car was saying was the issue and it is telling me I have short to ground . When I did the scan the driver door was open and hood was up . The keyless remote is also acting strange but it still locks and unlocks the doors it just doesn’t do the honk when locked like usual . I’m also not getting an antitheft theft alert light but the dash is showing a check engine light now.
So does this sound like a ground issue ? Or something else . The scan is saying short to ground for the e-brake but brake seems to be working fine .

For your No Crank Issue focus on the Starting, Passive Anti theft system (PATS) and key Fob

Starting check:

• Starter motor
• Starter motor relay (located in the Battery Junction Box (BJB) )
• Battery
• Battery cables
• Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) switch (manual transmission-equipped vehicles) (located on the clutch pedal)
• Ignition switch
• PCM

Anti Theft:

Normal Operation

During each vehicle start sequence, when the key is turned to the START or ON position, the Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) transceiver reads the PATS key identification code and sends the data to the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) . If there is a PATS concern, PATS DTCs should be set in the IPC and DTC P1260 in the PCM. If it is due to a starting system or driveability concern, there is no PATS DTCs in the IPC or the DTC P1260 in the PCM.


Good luck @BCICAN

 

[BCICAN]

Because you asked again. Please.. contact… @13COBRA and let him fix it.

Because you asked again. Please.. contact… @13COBRA and let him fix it..

I’m sorry but the more I hear that the less I want to do it .

For your No Crank Issue focus on the Starting, Passive Anti theft system (PATS) and key Fob

Starting check:

• Starter motor
• Starter motor relay (located in the Battery Junction Box (BJB) )
• Battery
• Battery cables
• Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) switch (manual transmission-equipped vehicles) (located on the clutch pedal)
• Ignition switch
• PCM

Anti Theft:

Normal Operation

During each vehicle start sequence, when the key is turned to the START or ON position, the Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) transceiver reads the PATS key identification code and sends the data to the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) . If there is a PATS concern, PATS DTCs should be set in the IPC and DTC P1260 in the PCM. If it is due to a starting system or driveability concern, there is no PATS DTCs in the IPC or the DTC P1260 in the PCM.


Good luck @BCICAN

Thanks,

I don’t have any

For your No Crank Issue focus on the Starting, Passive Anti theft system (PATS) and key Fob

Starting check:

• Starter motor
• Starter motor relay (located in the Battery Junction Box (BJB) )
• Battery
• Battery cables
• Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) switch (manual transmission-equipped vehicles) (located on the clutch pedal)
• Ignition switch
• PCM

Anti Theft:

Normal Operation

During each vehicle start sequence, when the key is turned to the START or ON position, the Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) transceiver reads the PATS key identification code and sends the data to the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) . If there is a PATS concern, PATS DTCs should be set in the IPC and DTC P1260 in the PCM. If it is due to a starting system or driveability concern, there is no PATS DTCs in the IPC or the DTC P1260 in the PCM.


Good luck @BCICAN

Thanks so much for your help I will try your suggestions ,
I’m not getting the PATS DTCs or p1260 maybe it would make more sense if I were ?.
I also printed information from the Ford service site for things to try tomorrow too .
I have taken this car to so many “professionals “ for them to run scans it’s ridiculous and those professionals include more than one ford service dept too .

 

[Vinnie_B]

I’m sorry but the more I hear that the less I want to do it .

Thanks,

I don’t have any

Thanks so much for your help I will try your suggestions ,
I’m not getting the PATS DTCs or p1260 maybe it would make more sense if I were ?.
I also printed information from the Ford service site for things to try tomorrow too .
I have taken this car to so many “professionals “ for them to run scans it’s ridiculous and those professionals include more than one ford service dept too .

No problem! I understand your frustrations @BCICAN.

 

[BCICAN]

Ok it’s been a few weeks but Texas heat index has been 116 degrees so that explains why I haven’t been working in it as much but that said the car does start now and the only code I am getting from the think car pro scanner or other scanner is the U0401:81-0A. The issue the car is having at this point is with the head lights the passenger side headlight is all wonky the driver side seems better but no high beams and the run signals have gone crazy when I click left or right both side flash on the front but the back seems ok when I turn n the headlights on at the same time they start hyper flashing . Maybe that’s a clue to why they are acting possessed ? The think car is telling me there are communication problems with the
FDIM front display interface module,
GPSM Global Positioning System module and IPC instrument panel control module
The horn has also decided it doesn’t want to work but the fuses seem fine.
Does any of this give a clue to where I need to check next ?