So, I've got a blown 7675 Journal Bearing Turbo. @17 psi it made 640 whp. With my tire setup, I've got no problem hooking for most of 1st and 2nd gear. It's not until about the last 400 or so rpms that it'll start losing traction. I am planning to spend the extra $900 and upgrade to the Ball Bearing since overall they seem to have increased durability. From what I'm reading, the ball bearing should spool 300+ rpms quicker, which is great! My only worry is that the ball bearing will limit my traction more since it spools quicker. I don't want to spool 300 rpms faster if I'm going to lose another 300 at the end of each gear. I guess I don't know if that'll even pose true, anybody have any input?
Journal Vs Ball Bearing, suggestions?
- Thread starter Wches
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It shouldn't affect your traction much if any at the top end of your rpm range. The turbo should already be hitting full boost well before the last 1k rpm. If you were having any traction issues on the initial boost hit is when a ball bearing center section would make that worse.
You will probably see the biggest difference in boost recovery between shifts (unless auto). The added durability is also nice. Enjoy!
Durability at the cost of an entire turbo if it needs replaced. A ballbearing center section is about the same price as a new turbo. I've never found the ~1k for a ballbearing a worthwhile upgrade. It's like spending 600 bucks on amber tail lights, I just don't get it.
Can't wait! Cutting spool time sounds plenty worth it to me!
Lol I hear you! It would be nice to throw that $900 towards big brakes or a roll cage. I guess just with the life span of the last journal that was on it, I'd hate to run into this again in 5,000 miles. The earlier spool times make for a great bonus though
Yea I will do my best in creating a build thread. It's going to be interesting to see how this turns out. I have had a couple guys surprised to hear I'm going straight from factory Eaton to a 76mm Precision. Nothing like doubling your RWHP in one upgrade huh???
Oh yeah, that's a pretty intense bump. Should be an awesome project!
IMO, not worth the $$ for the upgrade. The difference in spool up is going to be negligible and hardly noticeable if at all.
Next thing, if you are losing traction @ the top of each gear. You have some other issue going on, it has nothing to do with your turbo being a journal bearing.....
I would stay with the journal and spend the extra $$$ on something else. Maybe some suspension or tires?
Also, just because the turbo took a dump in 5000 miles may not be because it was a journal bearing. Actually it has nothing to do with that it was a journal bearing. You may destroy a ball bearing turbo as well if you have other issues going on with your oiling system. It is going to cost you more to fix it again. Have you looked over your feed, drainback setup and crankcase pressure? All of these can destroy turbos......
For the $$$ you are spending for a ball bearing 7675, there are other turbo options in that price range or less that will outperform the 7675 and are better quality.
Next thing, if you are losing traction @ the top of each gear. You have some other issue going on, it has nothing to do with your turbo being a journal bearing.....
I would stay with the journal and spend the extra $$$ on something else. Maybe some suspension or tires?
Also, just because the turbo took a dump in 5000 miles may not be because it was a journal bearing. Actually it has nothing to do with that it was a journal bearing. You may destroy a ball bearing turbo as well if you have other issues going on with your oiling system. It is going to cost you more to fix it again. Have you looked over your feed, drainback setup and crankcase pressure? All of these can destroy turbos......
For the $$$ you are spending for a ball bearing 7675, there are other turbo options in that price range or less that will outperform the 7675 and are better quality.
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NO WAY! I thought I was alone in this battle!
For the BB upgrade it was $600 from Hellion which wasn't bad in my opinion. Going from a turbonectics to a Precision was a no brainer. By no means do I have experience to share just what I know from research I have done and talking with those that have experience. Again, I'm not building a drag car, this is a street driven car with occasional track visits. Steps I will be taking to ensure long life of my turbo is a 7qt pan from MMR, high quality oil and filter with frequent changes. I can bet anyone who has made the jump to a turbo kit wether they bought something like a Hellion or a on3 kit has made some changes along way from things they have learned, like what works better for their situation. My advice is to do what you are comfortable with, both mechanically, and financially.
I've been under the impression that the center housing to the turbo went bad, I found oil all around the compressor wheel and it was seized. I did a 20-170 pull and it blew at the end of 5th right around 170. There's only 5k miles on this build so I've been assuming it was the turbo, especially after seeing that the wheel had seized. Any suggestions Juice/Nightmare?
Engine
Ford Racing 4.6L Aluminator longblock .020 over 284ci
JE 3.572” -17CC pistons
ModMax stainless steel 1.5/1.5/3MM file fit rings
King High Performance main bearings
King High Performance rod bearings
Calico coatings CT-1 ceramic coating on rod and main bearings
Calico coatings CT-2 ceramic coating on piston tops
Calico coatings CT-3 anti-scuffing ceramic coating on piston skirts
ARP 256-4201 head studs
ARP 256-6301 rod bolts
ARP 256-5701 main studs
ARP 156-5002 main cap bolts
ARP 256-1002 cam sprocket bolts
ATI 918036 Super damper
ARP 156-2501 balancer bolt
Hellion Power Systems base turbo kit
Precision PTB655-7675 billet wheel 76MM turbo
Maximum Motorsports severe duty oil relocation kit
Hotside piping ceramic coated
Siemens Deka 60lb/hr injectors
SCT BA2800 MAF
Fore Precision Works billet fuel hat with (2) Ford GT fuel pumps
Dual FPDM’s with 8Awg power feed
Bassani 3” catback exhaust 4603R5
Transmission
MGW short throw shifter
Fiore Micro-Click firewall adjuster
26 spline input shaft
Spec stage 3+ clutch
ARP 254-2801 flywheel bolts
Suspension/Driveline
Maximum Motorsports MMKM-3 K-member
Maximum Motorsports MMFCA-8 front control arms with Polyurethane bushings
Maximum Motorsports MMCC9994 powder coated caster camber plates
Maximum Motorsports MMTR-3 front adjustable tie-rod kit
Maximum Motorsports sway bar end links and polyurethane sway bar bushings
Maximum Motorsports COP-1 Front coil overs for Bilstein struts
Maximum Motorsports COP-4 Rear coil overs for Bilstein struts
Hypercoil 350 lb/in springs
Maximum Motorsport MMST-6 spherical rack bushings
Maximum Motorsports MMFL-5PC Full length subframe connectors
Polyurethane IRS subframe bushings
Maximum Motorsports Delrin IRS upper and lower control arm bushings
Maximum Motorsports MMIRSB-40.2 aluminum differential mount
Maximum Motorsports MMRSB-94 IRS sway bar end link kit
Maximum Motorsports MMIRSTR-2 IRS adjustable tie rod kit
Metco MDL-5000 driveshaft safety loop
FRPP 3.27 gears
Billetflow IRS brace
Appearance/Other
Fore Precision Works billet hood heat extractor vents
N2MB WOT box 2 step
CCW SP550 wheels in black ceramic coating - 18” X 9.5” fronts, 18” X 11” rear
265/35/18 Nitto NT05 front, 335/30/18 Nitto NT555R
Speed of Sound Dual gauge pillar pod
Innovate Motorsports LC-1 wideband with DB gauge
Raptor Shift light
Blitz Electronic Boost Controller
First suggestion. Don't take it into 5th gear lol. Those back cylinders like to melt on over drive pulls.
To be perfectly honest if you want the best turbo possible, call Jose at Forced Inductions. He can spec you a turbo for your goals that will come on faster as a journal than a precision bb and be cheaper. I've sent at least 10 people to him and all of them love it.
Ironically, I run off the shelf twin SXE 62/74's from Borg.
To be perfectly honest if you want the best turbo possible, call Jose at Forced Inductions. He can spec you a turbo for your goals that will come on faster as a journal than a precision bb and be cheaper. I've sent at least 10 people to him and all of them love it.
Ironically, I run off the shelf twin SXE 62/74's from Borg.
So we know the turbo locked up, but why?
What size feed line do you run and do you run a restrictor?
What size is the drain line? is it a straight shot to the pan or does it have any bends? Do you have a picture?
The last thing you want to do is install a new turbo and not know if your feed and drain setup is working properly and you smoke another one.
I 2nd nightmares suggestion. Call Jose and have him set you up a turbo for your application. You can get a much better turbo then the 7675 Ball bearing for the $$$
What size feed line do you run and do you run a restrictor?
What size is the drain line? is it a straight shot to the pan or does it have any bends? Do you have a picture?
The last thing you want to do is install a new turbo and not know if your feed and drain setup is working properly and you smoke another one.
I 2nd nightmares suggestion. Call Jose and have him set you up a turbo for your application. You can get a much better turbo then the 7675 Ball bearing for the $$$
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