Hey guys. I just picked up a 1997 cobra. Bone Stock. I have owned a 94 Gt, 1998 Saleen, 93 Gt and 03 Cobra. I have never had a 96-98 cobra. I purchased a UPR O/R X pipe, Mac Cat back, MGW shifter, JLT RAI for now. I will get it tuned soon too. What would be some other good mods you guys would suggest? I saw there is a 2.1 Kenne Bell kit for these. Anyone have experience with this kit? I also want to get 4.10's. Thanks guys
**Just bought a 1997 Cobra. Modification questions**
- Thread starter 97poizn
- Start date
If you're happy with 400rwhp or less the KB is a good blower. If you have a HP bug you should opt for something different like a Vortech, Paxton, or ProCharger set-up... These cars are reliable up to about 450rwhp, beyond that the piston/rods become the weak point. Do you have a HP goal in mind? 4.10 gears are kind of steep IMO, I would run 3.55-3.73's but it all depends on the size of tire you're running and what kind of fuel mileage you would like to get out of it. Is this a daily driver or weekend warrior?
Nothing wrong with 4.10s in these cars don't let people scare you off about myths of fuel mileage loss.
This is where I'm confused. I've had both 4.10 and I currently have 3.73 which tach way less than the 4.10s at 70 miles an hour. How could 4.10s not reduce gas mileage vs 3.73s if the 4.10s puts more strain on the motor, hence the higher RPM?
Load/labor on a weak tq level motor. Weight can also effect the formula.
I'd say if you do a lot of freeway driving where the avg speed is roughly 80 (like my commute), go with 3.73's. If speeds are much lower or you don't do much freeway driving, go with a steeper gear. I personally went with 3.73's because 90% of my driving is on a freeway at 75-80mph.
Gears. Also LTs help a lot in the mid range where these cars need help, as well as the low end.
And people who say that with 4.10s you won't get less gas mileage are full of it. I drive purely red light to red light 45-50mph and get about 16/17 mpg in town. A mix of 70% hwy and 30% city I get about 21mpg. A lot less than when I wasn't geared. RPMs are decently high on the hwy.
*with that said, 4.10s at a minimum! I cannot stress that enough, these cars need the gear if you actually want it to move out unless you have a nice blower or turbo.
And people who say that with 4.10s you won't get less gas mileage are full of it. I drive purely red light to red light 45-50mph and get about 16/17 mpg in town. A mix of 70% hwy and 30% city I get about 21mpg. A lot less than when I wasn't geared. RPMs are decently high on the hwy.
*with that said, 4.10s at a minimum! I cannot stress that enough, these cars need the gear if you actually want it to move out unless you have a nice blower or turbo.
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I just put 4.10s in and if you spend most of your time at 80 on the interstate you might not like it. Around town they are a lot of fun!
The 1996-1998 Cobras have what are known as "B" heads. These heads will not accommodate an after cooler in the area below the blower like a 1999 and up 4v. So if you want to make big boost you need to run water/methanol.
The centris can be cool air to air or air to water, depending on your preference. Lots of good choices for air to air.
Lowering is always a good mod with your choices of springs. Caster camber plates are a big help, along with adjustable rear control arms to get the stance the way you like it.
Be cautious on those ram air kits. The stock set up draws from the fender well and for non boosted motors is just fine. You will most likely raise intake air temps sucking hot air from under the hood.
The 1996-1998 Cobras have what are known as "B" heads. These heads will not accommodate an after cooler in the area below the blower like a 1999 and up 4v. So if you want to make big boost you need to run water/methanol.
The centris can be cool air to air or air to water, depending on your preference. Lots of good choices for air to air.
Lowering is always a good mod with your choices of springs. Caster camber plates are a big help, along with adjustable rear control arms to get the stance the way you like it.
Be cautious on those ram air kits. The stock set up draws from the fender well and for non boosted motors is just fine. You will most likely raise intake air temps sucking hot air from under the hood.
Good start with the midpipe, catback, intake, and shifter. Now get 4.10's installed and a short runner intake imo. Get some subframe connectors welded in and then move on to the rest of the suspension. That's a good all around car.
Then after the suspension is done, do some nitrous or a blower.
Then after the suspension is done, do some nitrous or a blower.
Thank you guys for all your responses. This is going to be my daily driver but I have a work schedule of 3 or 4 days a week. About 15 miles on Highway at most. My dad had a 96 mystic with a vortech, 3.73s and it still was gutless on the bottom end. I want to avoid that. If I could be around 400 rwhp that would be great IMO. I just want a fun car to drive that can keep up with some chevy's until I get my 12' GT500. What are some of your opinions on springs? I want a low stance but comfortable at the same time. I want to go with chrome 18x9 and 18x10 FR500.
I like the H&R Super Sports, along with Maximum Motorsports adjustable caster/camber plates, spring isolators and adjustable rear control arms. Paired with Bilstein struts and shocks this gives a nice ride. Stiffer than stock, but not bone jarring. If you do put lowering springs in, don't forget to replace the pinion snubber with a shorter one. MM sells those also...
If you are only driving 15-20 miles the 4.10 gears are fine... The KB blower would also be a great option if you're happy with 350-400hp and will offer up the most low end grunt. I am also running H&R springs and really like them, but running strange 10 adjust on front and rear.
Are they the H&R Super Sports? Did you remove isolators?
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