KB BAP anyone having trouble????

chillfactor

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KB BAP anyone having trouble????

Anyone having trouble with the activation switch?????it seems like the peeps I have been talking with all seem to have trouble with them failing. I think Engcon is the only one I know that has his still working. It is way to hard to reg. by hand and the switch break downs at the worst time. I need the number to KB if someone has it out there. Any other trouble please post, I have found that most are reluctent to post bad things about KB.....not sure why, but I call it like I see it.
Chill

:bash:
 

Shadowgray03

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kennebell.net for contact info.

My switch seems to be working just fine. I personally have no problems posting anything bad about KB but honestly havent had many problems. Aside from oil spray and getting a tune for stock injectors with high boost(which isnt a KB issue at all) I have had very good results.
 

coleman

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activation switch?

i didn't install mine, but i don't recall a switch for the BAP. i've only been adjusting the dial... i'll look at my setup again.
 

Shadowgray03

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Originally posted by coleman
activation switch?

i didn't install mine, but i don't recall a switch for the BAP. i've only been adjusting the dial... i'll look at my setup again.
There is a pressure switch that installs up by the KB, its boost activated and should increase voltage out of BAP based on the boost it see's. I hooked up a hand pump and monitored voltage from my BAP as I applied boost to the switch to make sure it was all working fine.
 

coleman

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oh, yes, that electrical device that was responsible for me not seeing any boost and/or half-boost for a period of time because the rubber vacuum/boost line kept blowing/coming off?!?

that drives the BAP!?!

damn, i hope i wasn't running lean during that span of time. :gt:
 

Shadowgray03

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Originally posted by coleman
oh, yes, that electrical device that was responsible for me not seeing any boost and/or half-boost for a period of time because the rubber vacuum/boost line kept blowing/coming off?!?

that drives the BAP!?!

damn, i hope i wasn't running lean during that span of time. :gt:
Its just a small round plastic can that has two leads on one end and a vacuum port on the other. It should be connected to the vacuum elbow coming of rear, drivers side brass fitting thats on the thick plate the KB is mounted to. The 2 leads connect to the wire that runs back to the BAP. I havent noticed any probs with mine blowing off yet.
 

chillfactor

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Mine would send to much fuel down low at WOT which would cause it to buck like hell. I am doing it by hand, but having to turn it down to 20 to start the car and then turn it to 40 to run smooth, and turn up almost all the way to run hard is a pain in the As*. Let me know what numbers you are setting yours at.
 

coleman

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my boost gauge was reading no vacuum & only half-boost for a period of time. the connection was loose & came off.

time to get a fuel pressure gauge & wideband O2 just in case!
 

Shadowgray03

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Originally posted by chillfactor
Mine would send to much fuel down low at WOT which would cause it to buck like hell. I am doing it by hand, but having to turn it down to 20 to start the car and then turn it to 40 to run smooth, and turn up almost all the way to run hard is a pain in the As*. Let me know what numbers you are setting yours at.
My tune doesnt use the BAP so to speak. The BAP shouldnt come on until it sees 3psi if I remember correctly. My car should be running stock fuel pressure, I just have the BAP installed and at about 30% to give me the needed overhead at high rpm in case of a voltage drop.
 

Shadowgray03

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Originally posted by Xplicit
All of u running KB's chip or another brand?
Im using a diablosport directly from Patrick myself. Has wonderfull drivability but was a tad lean at low RPM so I just sent it back. My original dealer I got it from lied to me and left me hanging.
 

Xplicit

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Thanks Larry. I asked because i keep getting conflicting reports from KB and other ppl who have a KB. KB says ONLY their chip activates the BAP. I've seen a KB chip installed in a person's car and the Fuel pressure was 60psi at idle and 90psi at WOT..whereas mine with a Diablosport is 30 at idle and 60 at WOT.
 

Shadowgray03

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Originally posted by Xplicit
Thanks Larry. I asked because i keep getting conflicting reports from KB and other ppl who have a KB. KB says ONLY their chip activates the BAP. I've seen a KB chip installed in a person's car and the Fuel pressure was 60psi at idle and 90psi at WOT..whereas mine with a Diablosport is 30 at idle and 60 at WOT.
Its all in the tuning. The BAP is activated by boost and ups voltage based on boost and dial setting. However, the EEC knows where fuel pressure is supposed to be so if you run the KB with the BAP, by default the BAP will up voltage to the pumps, increase pressure and in turn the EEC will pull voltage to FPDM to lower it. The KB chip works around this so the EEC doesnt lower the fuel pressure. Many of the autologic tuners also work their tunes this way. Diablo on the other hand has done somthing so the car does not need increased fuel pressure yet can maintain a proper A/F, not sure what they did, but I do know that the duty cycle on the pumps is maxed on a 600rwhp car. What this means is that if there should be a voltage drop you run the risk of running lean and thats not good. I have my BAP in place and turned on. This will increase fuel pressure but the EEC will compensate by lowering dutycycle to pumps to get fuel pressure where it should be. What this does is give me a bit more overhead. SInce my car uses the BAP but not increases pressure my duty cycle on a blast to redline will be less than someones without a BAP because the BAP is upping voltage under boost.
 

Xplicit

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That was much appreciated..thanks for taking the time to type out. My car is definitely in need of a tune. Car is seeing lack of fuel up top..some more fuel curve so that she doesn't break up at around 5800rpms. Have a good one :beer:
 

Shadowgray03

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Originally posted by Xplicit
That was much appreciated..thanks for taking the time to type out. My car is definitely in need of a tune. Car is seeing lack of fuel up top..some more fuel curve so that she doesn't break up at around 5800rpms. Have a good one :beer:
Just to elaborate on my post above, maybe it was obvious, but maybe not. The BAP sits after the fule pump driver module(FPDM) and the EEC send a signal to the FPDM to supply fuel based on many factors and the FPDM sends a set voltage to the fuel pumps and expects a certain pressure in return.

The BAP sits between the FPDM and the fuel pumps and is simply a step up transformer and it ups the voltage to the pumps. The EEC has no clue the BAP is there so it sends a signal to the FPDM for a certian PSI of fuel and it sends a set amount of voltage to pumps. If boost is high enough to activate the BAP it will elevate voltage from FPDM going to the pumps. This will increase fuel pressure above what the EEC is expecting so it rectifies the situation by requesting a lower duty cycle from FPDM until the desired fuel pressure is acheived.
 

chillfactor

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SO I guess it's time to get a new one because doing it manully is a PITA. I am never sure where to set it and it is killing my fuel mileage, if there is such a thing. Thanks for the info, but I think this is the tip of the iceburg.
Chill
 

stangin

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Originally posted by Shadowgray03
Its just a small round plastic can that has two leads on one end and a vacuum port on the other. It should be connected to the vacuum elbow coming of rear, drivers side brass fitting thats on the thick plate the KB is mounted to. The 2 leads connect to the wire that runs back to the BAP. I havent noticed any probs with mine blowing off yet.

Yours is all plastic?? I have a metal one. Guess what, having been a mechanic in a prior life and changing many of these I recognized it, it is simply an old GM style, I think Chevy oil sending unit desinged to be a simple on off switch based on about 3 - 5 psi of pressure that when there is pressure completes the circuit to turn off the oil light by making a connection. My ole Chevy oil sending socket actually fits over it perfectly, there is no mistaking it, even has the Chevy threads that go into the back of the block and that the threaded nipple fits over. I checked it with an ohm meter, it is normally open (no connection) and with about 3 - 5 psi of pressure it then closes to make the circuit. If yours is not working go buy a 78 Chevy/GM two prong oil sending unit for the idiot light.. not for a gauge, must be the idiot light. Coleman, no this does not determine boost, it only turns the BAP on and off, a simple switch and completes the circuit. My BAP actually works with no issues, but I have not had it long or put many miles on it, I keep screading belts. I have attached the pic.
 

Shadowgray03

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Originally posted by stangin
Yours is all plastic?? I have a metal one.
Thats it, well, its a cobo of metal/plastic. You can use a hand vacuum pump to test it.
 

stangin

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Originally posted by Shadowgray03
Thats it, well, its a cobo of metal/plastic. You can use a hand vacuum pump to test it.

Actually a hand vacuum pump will only test it to see if it will hold vacuum. If you want to see if it is working you need 3 - 5 psi pressure and an ohm meter. I just checked mine to confirm that it is normally open all the time (no circuit) in normal atmosphere and under vacuum.. it will be closed (makes circuit - turns on BAP) when 3 - 5 psi pressure is applied to it.
 

Shadowgray03

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Originally posted by stangin
Actually a hand vacuum pump will only test it to see if it will hold vacuum. If you want to see if it is working you need 3 - 5 psi pressure and an ohm meter. I just checked mine to confirm that it is normally open all the time (no circuit) in normal atmosphere and under vacuum.. it will be closed (makes circuit - turns on BAP) when 3 - 5 psi pressure is applied to it.
Correct, most vacuum pumps also work as pressure pumps as well. Yours tested as mine does and thats how it is supposed to work.
 

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