Originally posted by Snake Eyes
Hell there CC plates aren't even true caster/camber plates. Here is their description of there Caster Plus Kit (link), I quote this directly from there site. "Optimum caster is preset in the upper strut mount and allows for adjustment of camber settings for performance driving" So basically they are telling you that all you need in a CC plate is camber adjustment because Ford's factory spec (about 3.2 degrees not adjustable) is enough caster!!! Adding as much positive caster as possible is one of the first things you do when you get CC plates that allow additional caster adjustment, and their plates apparently don't allow you to change that. Some one correct me if I am mistaken but that is just completely wrong. From what I have been told five to six degrees of caster is optimal on a street-driven Mustang.
Back in '95, this is the advice that I followed on my Cobra. I didn't know it was the same advic as was recommended for a Fox body. However, the advice of "get as much camber as possible" on a street driven car will whip off the tread on the inside edge of an expensive set of tires in just a few thousand miles. It was my experience that camber was a relatively static setting that stayed constant throughout the rotation radius and caster did little while the car was straight ahead but would cause the wheel to increase its camber as it was turned. I had 3.5 degrees static camber and with all the caster I could get, I believe I had close to 10 degrees at full lock.
If you're building a race car, the best route to take is to do test sessions with a tire pyrometer to measure temps across the face of the tread to arrive at optimal tire pressures and suspension settings.
If it's going to be a street driven car I would recommend staying within 5-10% of the Ford factory settings for decent handling but similar to stock tire wear.
BTDT, ruined a set of $400 each Michelin MXX3's with improper suspension settings.:cryying: