Goal: Make the intercooler fluid bypass the heat exchanger when the AC is on (and KC is working)
Make the intercooler fluid go through the heat exchanger when the AC is off (and KC is not working)
Why: I wanted a foolproof, no effort required system where I knew the car was always being cooled properly.
Fair warning: getting this all to fit in my bumper was extremely difficult and there were times when I did not think it would fit. It finally did and has a tiny bit of clearance now.
Materials required:
Piping:
x3 - 3/4" electronic ball valve - http://ebay.to/1g0TfKl
options: 3/4" DN20 | DC12V/24V | CR3-01 | also make sure it is NPT
x4 - 3/4" NPT to heater hose barb fittings (I forgot what size the heater hose is)
x4 - 3/4" closed pipe nipple - http://ebay.to/1MH7IrL
x2 - 3/4" tee fitting - http://ebay.to/1IHlCbK
x2 - 3/4" male to female 90 - bought at lowes along with rest of pipe pieces - couldn't find on Ebay after quick search
x1 - PTFE tape - got to seal those pipe threads
I would also recommend insulating as much as you can.
I had to use 2 plastic hose to hose barb fittings to connect some rubber hoses together.
Don't forget to get hose clamps
Electronics:
Some wire (maybe 10 feet would be sufficient)
Ford relay (I happened to have a relay box from another Ford vehicle that came in handy)
Soldering iron & solder
Installing the piping:
A diagram of how things are going to work:
Where I ended up mounting it in the bumper:
Note: to get it to clear the brake duct hole next to the fog light I ended up having to turn the ball valves around because the electronics part of was hitting.
For this part you will need to assemble the piping (contraption?) and connect it to the intercooler pump, heat exchanger on both ends, and Killer Chiller.
I was able to accomplish this by using the heater hose supplied with the Killer Chiller, various rubber 90s from the stock routing, and a couple of plastic hose to hose nipples.
Make sure to mount the piping to the bumper some way. I ended up cutting a 2x4 to fit between it and the bumper and cinching it down with a couple of large hose clamps.
My Killer Chiller is also mounted on a bracket upside down.
Before moving on, MAKE SURE YOUR BUMPER COVER CLEARS EVERYTHING. I spent hours figuring out how to get everything to fit.
Installing the electronics:
The magic of this system happens by splicing into this small sensor on the passenger side by the firewall. It is located on the high pressure AC line. (I can add more info about it later, I do not have the diagrams with me that said what it does - what is important is that it is hot when the AC system is running)
One of the wires in this connector will be hot when the AC is set to MAX AC, AC, Defrost, Defrost & feet (and the car is on)
If I remember correctly it is the purple one, however, it is very easy to check yourself with a multimeter.
Splice into the hot wire as this will be what flips the relay to power the ball valves. I will refer to this as "AC on" from now on.
Splice into the wire connected to pin 87 on the only relay in the small relay box on the passenger side of the car. This gives you a key on (or intercooler pump on) power source. I will refer to this as "pump on" from now on.
You will also need to make a ground wire. There is a convenient post to ground to behind the passenger headlight. I will refer to this as "ground" from now on (lol).
Here is a diagram for a normal Ford or Bosch relay:
30 - connect to pump on wire
85 - connect to ground and black ground wire on all 3 ball valves
86 - connect to AC on
87a - connect to red wire on 2 ball valves to heat exchanger (open) and green wire on ball valve that bypasses (close)
87 - connect to red wire on ball valve that bypasses (open) and green wire on 2 ball valves to heat exchanger (close)
That is basically it. Just need to make sure everything is mounted good and that the wiring is working and you too will have a Killer Chiller system that is always running optimally.
Make the intercooler fluid go through the heat exchanger when the AC is off (and KC is not working)
Why: I wanted a foolproof, no effort required system where I knew the car was always being cooled properly.
Fair warning: getting this all to fit in my bumper was extremely difficult and there were times when I did not think it would fit. It finally did and has a tiny bit of clearance now.
Materials required:
Piping:
x3 - 3/4" electronic ball valve - http://ebay.to/1g0TfKl
options: 3/4" DN20 | DC12V/24V | CR3-01 | also make sure it is NPT
x4 - 3/4" NPT to heater hose barb fittings (I forgot what size the heater hose is)
x4 - 3/4" closed pipe nipple - http://ebay.to/1MH7IrL
x2 - 3/4" tee fitting - http://ebay.to/1IHlCbK
x2 - 3/4" male to female 90 - bought at lowes along with rest of pipe pieces - couldn't find on Ebay after quick search
x1 - PTFE tape - got to seal those pipe threads
I would also recommend insulating as much as you can.
I had to use 2 plastic hose to hose barb fittings to connect some rubber hoses together.
Don't forget to get hose clamps
Electronics:
Some wire (maybe 10 feet would be sufficient)
Ford relay (I happened to have a relay box from another Ford vehicle that came in handy)
Soldering iron & solder
Installing the piping:
A diagram of how things are going to work:
Where I ended up mounting it in the bumper:
Note: to get it to clear the brake duct hole next to the fog light I ended up having to turn the ball valves around because the electronics part of was hitting.
For this part you will need to assemble the piping (contraption?) and connect it to the intercooler pump, heat exchanger on both ends, and Killer Chiller.
I was able to accomplish this by using the heater hose supplied with the Killer Chiller, various rubber 90s from the stock routing, and a couple of plastic hose to hose nipples.
Make sure to mount the piping to the bumper some way. I ended up cutting a 2x4 to fit between it and the bumper and cinching it down with a couple of large hose clamps.
My Killer Chiller is also mounted on a bracket upside down.
Before moving on, MAKE SURE YOUR BUMPER COVER CLEARS EVERYTHING. I spent hours figuring out how to get everything to fit.
Installing the electronics:
The magic of this system happens by splicing into this small sensor on the passenger side by the firewall. It is located on the high pressure AC line. (I can add more info about it later, I do not have the diagrams with me that said what it does - what is important is that it is hot when the AC system is running)
One of the wires in this connector will be hot when the AC is set to MAX AC, AC, Defrost, Defrost & feet (and the car is on)
If I remember correctly it is the purple one, however, it is very easy to check yourself with a multimeter.
Splice into the hot wire as this will be what flips the relay to power the ball valves. I will refer to this as "AC on" from now on.
Splice into the wire connected to pin 87 on the only relay in the small relay box on the passenger side of the car. This gives you a key on (or intercooler pump on) power source. I will refer to this as "pump on" from now on.
You will also need to make a ground wire. There is a convenient post to ground to behind the passenger headlight. I will refer to this as "ground" from now on (lol).
Here is a diagram for a normal Ford or Bosch relay:
30 - connect to pump on wire
85 - connect to ground and black ground wire on all 3 ball valves
86 - connect to AC on
87a - connect to red wire on 2 ball valves to heat exchanger (open) and green wire on ball valve that bypasses (close)
87 - connect to red wire on ball valve that bypasses (open) and green wire on 2 ball valves to heat exchanger (close)
That is basically it. Just need to make sure everything is mounted good and that the wiring is working and you too will have a Killer Chiller system that is always running optimally.