Latest in the terminator alternator saga

P49Y-CY

fomocomofo
Established Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2003
Messages
11,230
Location
southwest
My oem alternator finally went bad. Car is a garage queen. No big amp draw radio or anything else. So no need for me to put some huge high amp replacement in. I don't even need lights no night time driving. I just want reliable even voltage.

I had rebuilt many many alternators in distant past. My needs were more not high amp but good components for the rebuild. All parts are not created equal.

Because I have not rebuilt an alternator in years ( jrgoffin ) had done tons of research on parts and what our alternator is. An exploded parts list of cobra, Mach and other alternators. This was huge help NOT wasting time researching parts and differences!

Thanks jrgoffin!! I'd msg you but can get my msgs to work on here

My tag on my original alternator said 130amp. FYI they are not 130amp ! Parts inside were 105 /110 amp.
1) Pulled it apart found a few things. 6 diode inside. And for ease of understanding let's say 3 pos an 3 neg. The 3 neg ones were all blown. High resistance through grounding possibly..
2) Also these diode were extremely small compared to old alternators I've done. FYI diode are not all created equal in Construction and internal composition.

3) I used rebuilder in a box.com for parts awesome compant.... $50 bucks. Upgraded high amp stator $60. I opted not to use the bearing they sent on backend of case use a better grade. Just personal preference.

4) My inner slip ring barely I mean barely had wear. Rather than replace it even though I had new one in hand. I put it on the lathe touched it up..

5) If your wondering why? Even if I put the new slip ring on ...I'd still put it on lathe touch up because after pressing new slip rings on I've found they are eccentric. I've seen brush wires break at back of brush in that tight spot. From brushes moving back an forth. Was it absolutely necessary.... no.

6) rebuilder in a box.com offers a upgraded stator that gives you anther 30 amps and rectifier has a 8 diodes vs 6. Rectifier was on a aluminum plate vs copper but so was the OE. When you order the upgraded stator they even solder on the rectifier on for you.

7) If your a diy person it can be done easy. If you never rebuilt one b4 I would tell you to watch rebuilder in a box 6g alternator videos.! He will tell you all little tricks so you don't bust anything. pay attention to the little stuff he shows. They all work.
.
8) when done if you're worried about your rebuild go to your local parts store have your alternator tested

Why did my alternator fail? Heat an corrosion on the grounding. Maybe low quailty oe parts What kills the alternator is high load an no air cooling.
You'll notice as any Electronics the regulator has cooling fins. I could see corrosion where the alternator was bolted down also resistance test verified this. A extra ground wire would be beneficial and All contacts clean

I would say make use of that brake duct to the alternator or just add a cooling scoop under the car to the alt.. !

I hope this was some help to someone

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using the svtperformance.com mobile app

good info. how many miles did you have on your oem?
 

Cobra10thaniv

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
May 12, 2003
Messages
2,702
Location
Mn
good info. how many miles did you have on your oem?
Just hit 70,000 also FYI after I installed it I checked the dash digital voltage option, it read about 18 volts.
Yet I used my calibrated Fluke meter It read 14 volts at idle. I would have guessed the digital dash voltage would have been very accurate but it is not.

I know my meter is accurately calibrated because I have it tested.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

brownsvo

Chrome of Mystic
Established Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2013
Messages
76
Location
Fairfield, California
Stock alt died after my subwoofer installed.
-Rebuilt at a local place to stock. Lasted 6mo.
-Ebay alternator, same fate. 4-6months.
- had local guy rebuild the stock alt with new internals, "heavy duty stuff, 160amp+". Lasted another 6 months before I realized it was barely hanging on at 12.5v driving. Took it apart and noticed one of the diodes had dissolved lmao.
-replaced that with the base Pa alternator, added the upgraded power wire and added a ground to the alternator casing directly to the negative terminal. Did all right, once the cobra got hot voltage drops to 12.4ish unless I keep the idle up. That one lasted about a year, only because It was in storage while i was overseas.

-brings me to current times. I went big and got the newest j2fab high output.(500ish miles) Upgraded the big 3 wires, and made sure the brake duct tube was pointed right at it. I'm getting 14.7 at an idle and pretty much all the time now. Voltage drops slightly when I use my brakes for some reason.
Blinkers are inconsistent, and the dash glow seems to flicker. Not sure if there all related but with my experiance w/terminator alternators I'm kind of weary they're all going to fail me in the end.
 

TP03

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2016
Messages
368
Location
WI
Stock alt died after my subwoofer installed.
-Rebuilt at a local place to stock. Lasted 6mo.
-Ebay alternator, same fate. 4-6months.
- had local guy rebuild the stock alt with new internals, "heavy duty stuff, 160amp+". Lasted another 6 months before I realized it was barely hanging on at 12.5v driving. Took it apart and noticed one of the diodes had dissolved lmao.
-replaced that with the base Pa alternator, added the upgraded power wire and added a ground to the alternator casing directly to the negative terminal. Did all right, once the cobra got hot voltage drops to 12.4ish unless I keep the idle up. That one lasted about a year, only because It was in storage while i was overseas.

-brings me to current times. I went big and got the newest j2fab high output.(500ish miles) Upgraded the big 3 wires, and made sure the brake duct tube was pointed right at it. I'm getting 14.7 at an idle and pretty much all the time now. Voltage drops slightly when I use my brakes for some reason.
Blinkers are inconsistent, and the dash glow seems to flicker. Not sure if there all related but with my experiance w/terminator alternators I'm kind of weary they're all going to fail me in the end.

Sounds like you need to lose the subwoofer and start listening to the exhaust instead.
 

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