LCA Angle (PIC) Double check my work

jsip

So horsepower Many torque
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UPDATED: Post #9

Feel free to judge me on anything.

tLXdGHV.jpg

I still need to let the suspension settle in as I just installed lowering springs, LCAs, LCA Relo Brackets, Adj-UCA, UCA Mount, Adj-Panhard. All poly. I should also add I have not zip-tied my e-brake cables yet so they are hanging. Roads out here are very new so a spin around the block before buttoning everything up is what I went after.

Currently in middle hole of the BMR Relos. I get ZERO wheel hop - I still spin like mad but I get no more wheel hop. Does that angle look good to you guys or should I go up one to the top hole?

I'll have to try to get a decent hook going - very damp today so it's hard to judge wheel spin but she definitely loses the "bounce" she had out of a dig and pulling 2nd at WOT. She plants and goes MUCH MUCH straighter than she did with zero hop. Pretty stoked about that. I feel I am almost there and now just lacking a good set of tires to help stick.

Thoughts are appreciated and thanks, guys!

- Jack
 
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BMR Tech

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Jack, I like the looks of that angle...BUT, it may be a little too aggressive for those tires.

I recommend you atleast trying the next position up, just to see. It may help you hook a little sooner.

Usually it works like this on street tires:

LCA Angle Steeper = may cause more spin on the "hit"...but will recover quickly, and car tends to go straight.

LCA Angle Less Steep = car may hook a little better initially...but can unload/spin tires after increasing speed. Also, the lower anti-squat may not make the car feel as "straight as an arrow"

Often times, the first hole works best on most street tire cars with 3.73 gears.

Let us know!
 

jsip

So horsepower Many torque
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Will do, Kelly! Thanks for the heads-up. I'll try it this Wednesday. That'll be the next time I feel like getting off my butt to do something. Putting in all of that stuff on jackstands this weekend KILLED ME. At least I had access to a drive-up for the pinion angle today.

I am also loving your Relos o_O I'm still amazed they hold up to so much abuse bolted on but the 3pt bolt up and materials are top notch. I feel very confident not throwing a tack on there and one of the wrenches at the shop commented on the same thing. He uses yours, no weld.

Thanks again, Kelly. I appreciate the insight.
 

BMR Tech

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Awesome! BMR FTW, right? ;)

Keep me updated and let me know how the higher position works out for ya.

Enjoy!
 

ExTurbo

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Will do, Kelly! Thanks for the heads-up. I'll try it this Wednesday. That'll be the next time I feel like getting off my butt to do something. Putting in all of that stuff on jackstands this weekend KILLED ME. At least I had access to a drive-up for the pinion angle today.

I am also loving your Relos o_O I'm still amazed they hold up to so much abuse bolted on but the 3pt bolt up and materials are top notch. I feel very confident not throwing a tack on there and one of the wrenches at the shop commented on the same thing. He uses yours, no weld.

Thanks again, Kelly. I appreciate the insight.

I thought the same thing about keeping them bolted in, until I went to the track and they moved a bit, threw my rear toe out, apparently. Id have em tacked in just to be sure they don't move at all. I left the track one night and my steering wheel was off.
 

BMR Tech

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I thought the same thing about keeping them bolted in, until I went to the track and they moved a bit, threw my rear toe out, apparently. Id have em tacked in just to be sure they don't move at all. I left the track one night and my steering wheel was off.

That was likely the bolt slop / shifting.

If that happens, it is good to loosen the brackets up - ensure they are in their full rear position, and re-torque. I make it sound easier than it is, just a heads up. Sometimes it can be pretty strenuous doing what I just said.
 

jsip

So horsepower Many torque
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There's barely any room to move back there. I got on my setup hard without issues the minute I dialed in my pinion. There might be about 0.5mm of play between the bolt and bushing sleeve and same with the bracket. It is extremely snug. If something shifted so much to knock your rear end out of whack then something wasn't tight enough or your stock locations aren't to spec, which happens. Mine were pretty much silly tight on both sides with 0 wiggle room for error. I also only have 4.7k on the car which was bought in 13 so there's not much abuse back there to cause any wear. Small variances on the assembly line are expected from factory and sometimes things just aren't lining up as correct when you add new parts.
 

imeyers302

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Awesome! BMR FTW, right? ;)

Keep me updated and let me know how the higher position works out for ya.

Enjoy!

I installed the BMR relos last week. Tried the lowest setting at first. Traction was good but the rear of the car felt weird in turns. Went to the highest setting and it handles awesome now and traction is definitely improved just not as much as the lowest setting. Car is on steeda sports with steeda billet lca's and track pack wheels and tires.
 

jsip

So horsepower Many torque
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Update

Hit my bud's shop and slapped it on a rack finally. Here's the arm in the upper hole:
armreset.jpg

Still a slight angle downwards but not nearly as severe. This is with a 1.5" drop in the rear, as well.

Handling is definitely improved. Cornering and leaning into turns the rear end is a bit more predictable and planted. Straight line has also seen a marked improvement over the middle hole for me as hitting a 1-2 pull at redline seems to get just a bit more traction than with a lower hole. Still very straight, only mild wagging of the tail during a spin but super easy to control compared to stock.

All in all I am happy with how she sits and plants on street tires. Need some better tires, of course, but these will do until I get the rest of my setup next year.

Moving to the upper hole took about 10 minutes to do both on a rack. I used a pole jack to put some pressure on the axle as it was hanging (just a little bit), loosened the OEM bolt location, removed the LCA bolt and slid them up no problem. Torqued the OEM location to spec then the LCA. Done and done. Far easier giving the OEM location just a few turns of slack to relieve the squeeze on the LCA.
 

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