Lets hear of some shops that sell 4.6 parts
- Thread starter Dino S.
- Start date
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The have been bulit to 1400hp on the street.......... Right out side of "Race City" USA
www.gofastfords.com
Can help with parts and installation
www.gofastfords.com
Can help with parts and installation
I've got the formula that will put you into the 11s easily. but no one ever listens to me
Re: Re: Lets hear of some shops that sell 4.6 parts
yeah...a 75 or 100 shot would put me solidly into the 11's.....i been thinkin about it.....
Originally posted by Doug
I've got the formula that will put you into the 11s easily. but no one ever listens to me
yeah...a 75 or 100 shot would put me solidly into the 11's.....i been thinkin about it.....
www.steeda.com
www.rpmoutlet.com
www.fourvalve.com
www.mustangdepot.com
www.dallasmustang.com
there are many many more just do yourself a favor and go buy a subscription to Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords and read it just dont look at the pretty pictures....lol. But seriously they have a bunch of vendors in each issue just use your common sense "if it sounds to good to be true it probably is" <-----remember that!
www.rpmoutlet.com
www.fourvalve.com
www.mustangdepot.com
www.dallasmustang.com
there are many many more just do yourself a favor and go buy a subscription to Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords and read it just dont look at the pretty pictures....lol. But seriously they have a bunch of vendors in each issue just use your common sense "if it sounds to good to be true it probably is" <-----remember that!
oh yeah my method for finding the best price is to go to the manufactures site get there part number of the part I want copy that go to google search that part number and look for what I like to call "the lowest bidder"
Ebay is another good source. Just becareful of scams.
Ebay is another good source. Just becareful of scams.
Re: Re: Lets hear of some shops that sell 4.6 parts
That's because you blew up your engine ;-)
j/k man... I can't wait to see what your car does when you get it up and running again.
Originally posted by Doug
I've got the formula that will put you into the 11s easily. but no one ever listens to me
That's because you blew up your engine ;-)
j/k man... I can't wait to see what your car does when you get it up and running again.
Thanks guys, y'all saved me money already. A few questions to the experienced engine builders:
Do I want I-beam or H-beam rods? Which are better? Are no-name connecting rods a big gamble?
I've noticed billions of different kind of piston rings, which do I want? What the hell are plasma rings?
Also, other than: Pistons, Rings, Rods, Bearings, Head Bolts, Main bolts, and head gaskets.... what else should I replace while rebuilding the engine. Oil Pump? I've heard Oil pump gears? Anything i'm missing?
Do I want I-beam or H-beam rods? Which are better? Are no-name connecting rods a big gamble?
I've noticed billions of different kind of piston rings, which do I want? What the hell are plasma rings?
Also, other than: Pistons, Rings, Rods, Bearings, Head Bolts, Main bolts, and head gaskets.... what else should I replace while rebuilding the engine. Oil Pump? I've heard Oil pump gears? Anything i'm missing?
I would go with H-beam Manely rods and some JE pistons. Not to sure on the ring thing. I would go ARP for the bolts and studs. Make sure to get billet oil pump gears from SHM.
Dino: as far as internal compenents, get American stuff. Its the best there is. Even the cheapest American forged steele is mountains above anything the japs make. Unfortunetly, I compromised and went with Eagle rods...not a big mistake, they are still good rods, but I would have been better off with the manelys.
Get manely rods. JE or CP pistons. On the pistons, you want 3mm top rings pushed down as far as possible.
I got Federal Mogul race bearings throughout. Mine are plasma moly. I've heard differing views, the few ford and chevy engine builders I talked to say they are fine. However, I talked to one guy that is heavy into building viper engines and he said that the viper guys have problems with the coating coming off them...so i suggest in doing your research.
You'll need some gaskets, head gaskest, rear main seal, timing cover gasket, and I think that is all you need (pls don't quote me on this, do your research).
As far as bolts, ARP. Sure, they get expensive, but why pay 1500$ on rods and pistons just to shoot a rod through the block becuse you didn't want to buy 80$ bolts over 40$ bolts. That's the way I look at it.
If you need a crank, either get a stock OEM or the Kellogg Stroker crank. Kellogg (from my research and from the opinions of respected engine builders) make really good stuff. My stroker crank is a Kellogg, and my engine builder said it was the best looking crank he'd ever seen.
When rebuilding, look over the heads real well. How many miles on the engine? Valve seals start smoking around 75K so I'm told, so you may want to go ahead and do that. Open up the intake some, you can do it yourself with a dremel or something of the sort.
Get manely rods. JE or CP pistons. On the pistons, you want 3mm top rings pushed down as far as possible.
I got Federal Mogul race bearings throughout. Mine are plasma moly. I've heard differing views, the few ford and chevy engine builders I talked to say they are fine. However, I talked to one guy that is heavy into building viper engines and he said that the viper guys have problems with the coating coming off them...so i suggest in doing your research.
You'll need some gaskets, head gaskest, rear main seal, timing cover gasket, and I think that is all you need (pls don't quote me on this, do your research).
As far as bolts, ARP. Sure, they get expensive, but why pay 1500$ on rods and pistons just to shoot a rod through the block becuse you didn't want to buy 80$ bolts over 40$ bolts. That's the way I look at it.
If you need a crank, either get a stock OEM or the Kellogg Stroker crank. Kellogg (from my research and from the opinions of respected engine builders) make really good stuff. My stroker crank is a Kellogg, and my engine builder said it was the best looking crank he'd ever seen.
When rebuilding, look over the heads real well. How many miles on the engine? Valve seals start smoking around 75K so I'm told, so you may want to go ahead and do that. Open up the intake some, you can do it yourself with a dremel or something of the sort.
those are composite. it's acutally lower intake to IMRC plates and IMRC plates to intake on the heads....both are composite.
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