any pics of fold out screen in a 2001 cobra?
Let's talk about the Mach 460 stereo system
- Thread starter Adam01Snake
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I dont have any pics of a flip up screen in an 01 up, but I don't think it would look that good.. being that they have a huge double din opening. the 00 and earlier mustangs are a different story because they have two single din openings, and a single din flip up will fit without an install kit.
But I think having the double din opening is beautiful because you can install a double din screen that looks factory.. instead of having some goofy screen pop out in front of your heater controls and vents.
Here's some pics of the first install I did of a double din head unit in an 01-up V6 mustang when I was working at a car audio shop. It was done about 4 years ago when kenwood first came out with the double din screens. They are much much nicer now. The point is, it looks FACTORY!!!!
Enjoy!
Homer
But I think having the double din opening is beautiful because you can install a double din screen that looks factory.. instead of having some goofy screen pop out in front of your heater controls and vents.
Here's some pics of the first install I did of a double din head unit in an 01-up V6 mustang when I was working at a car audio shop. It was done about 4 years ago when kenwood first came out with the double din screens. They are much much nicer now. The point is, it looks FACTORY!!!!
Enjoy!
Homer
Yeah, Pioneer has a nice line with the Pioneer AVIC.
Has touch screen, nav and bluetooth.....looks 100% factory as well.
Has touch screen, nav and bluetooth.....looks 100% factory as well.
The double dins now that Kenwood and Pioneer have out are really nice. They look factory when they are installed right and you get a CD player, iPod ready, Nav, amp/sub preouts and some have the backup camera option if you like that. For the money they are great.
I also read on a mustang site that you don't have to rip out all the Mach wiring, just the amps/speakers/headunit. I have no idea if this is true, but a guy posted claiming he did it that way and it works fine.
I also read on a mustang site that you don't have to rip out all the Mach wiring, just the amps/speakers/headunit. I have no idea if this is true, but a guy posted claiming he did it that way and it works fine.
You're right, you don't have to rip out the wiring. Metra electronics makes a really nice integration kit for a couple applications.
1. If you want to change the head unit, but keep the amps and speakers, it has a harness that has RCA plugs to use the preamp outputs on the head unit so you're not overpowering the factory amps.
2. If you want to bypass the amps, It has an "amp bypass harness" that has the same input and output plugs that the amp has. Just plug both of the amp harnesses into the bypass plug. Or, if you want to use an aftermarket 4 channel amp to drive the components, you can just cut that amp bypass harness in half and use the side that connects to the component speakers and hook it to the output of the aftermarket amp. That way, you have all the speaker connections right there in the back instead of having to run them up to the harness in the front, or worse, to each individual speaker.
Homer
1. If you want to change the head unit, but keep the amps and speakers, it has a harness that has RCA plugs to use the preamp outputs on the head unit so you're not overpowering the factory amps.
2. If you want to bypass the amps, It has an "amp bypass harness" that has the same input and output plugs that the amp has. Just plug both of the amp harnesses into the bypass plug. Or, if you want to use an aftermarket 4 channel amp to drive the components, you can just cut that amp bypass harness in half and use the side that connects to the component speakers and hook it to the output of the aftermarket amp. That way, you have all the speaker connections right there in the back instead of having to run them up to the harness in the front, or worse, to each individual speaker.
Homer
I dont have any pics of a flip up screen in an 01 up, but I don't think it would look that good.. being that they have a huge double din opening. the 00 and earlier mustangs are a different story because they have two single din openings, and a single din flip up will fit without an install kit.
But I think having the double din opening is beautiful because you can install a double din screen that looks factory.. instead of having some goofy screen pop out in front of your heater controls and vents.
Here's some pics of the first install I did of a double din head unit in an 01-up V6 mustang when I was working at a car audio shop. It was done about 4 years ago when kenwood first came out with the double din screens. They are much much nicer now. The point is, it looks FACTORY!!!!
Enjoy!
Homer
thanks and this is what i wanna do but im a vert and dont want a lot of people trying to get in so a member siad to get a fold out
Mine came with the opening for the two units but i did a bit of fabrication and made the double din fit. Ill post some pics if you would like?
So, reading the above posts, would this work?
New:
- Head unit
- Wiring
- Amp(s) for speakers (2x2 or 1x4 depending on power requirements of the midbass speakers)
- Mono Amp for Sub
- Front Components
- Rear Midbass
- Trunk Sub
Would that sound awful? From my understanding, the deck and door ones are pretty close to midbass right?
New:
- Head unit
- Wiring
- Amp(s) for speakers (2x2 or 1x4 depending on power requirements of the midbass speakers)
- Mono Amp for Sub
- Front Components
- Rear Midbass
- Trunk Sub
Would that sound awful? From my understanding, the deck and door ones are pretty close to midbass right?
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Is it possible to remove the factory amp and put an aftermarket amp in the same amp rack? I would like to upgrade my speakers in the future, but would like to put the amp in the factory location where it's hidden.
You bet! There are quite a few full range amps that are about the same size as the factory ones. While a single 4 channel probably won't fit, you could fit dual two channel amps up in there. And the best part is that you can use all the factory wiring. Most full range amps have " line level" or "speaker level" inputs in addition to RCA's. So, what you do is buy the metra amp bypass harness and cut it in half. Use the one side to hook up to the line level inputs of the amp, and use the other side to hook up to the speaker outputs from the amp. That way, it's a plug and play deal, and you don't have to cut any of the ford factory wiring. you can even use the amp signal wire that's already back to turn on the amps without running a separate one from the head unit. You could use the existing main power wire, but I'd recommend running a separate 8 gauge wire just to make sure they have enough juice.
Homer
Awesome. So I could install 2 amps to power all the speakers, replace the factory speakers, still use the existing wiring, and only have to run an 8 gauge from the battery?
Orion Cobalt CO3002 2-channel car amplifier 60 watts RMS x 2 at Crutchfield.com
This amplifier looks like it's about the same size as the ford amps. 2 of them should fit.
Notice how it has a white plug on the side? That's for the line-level inputs. The amp comes with a harness that plugs into that. You'll connect the line-level input harness that comes with each amp to the ford wiring coming from the head unit. Rather than trying to guess the colors of those wires (and having to cut the factory wires, use the following kit:
Metra Electronics - Products
The picture has 3 harnesses in it. The first two harnesses are for your head unit. The gray rectangular harness is for the power to the head unit (12V constant, switched, ground, amp turn on, illumination, etc). The square black harness is for the speaker wires that connect to the head unit's harness.
The third harness in that picture with the two plugs on it is the amp bypass harness, and that's what you'll use to integrate those aftermarket amps into the factory ford wiring. Cut that harness in half, because you're not bypassing any amps, you're replacing them and using this plug as an adaptor so the aftermarket amps' inputs and outputs plug directly into the ford input and output harnesses. One side will connect to the line-level input harnesses that come with the amps and will plug into the speaker harness coming from the head unit, and the other side will connect to the speaker outputs of the amp and will connect to the ford plug that goes to all the speakers.
I think you might need to find the amp signal wire in the harness that comes from the head unit that plugs into the factory amp, because that amp bypass harness doesn't have a provision for that.
You "could" use the power and ground wires for the factory amps, but I don't know how thick they are. Plus, you'd have to splice into them, and the whole goal of this is to not cut any of the ford wiring. It's just better to run an 8 Gauge wire from the battery and use a distribution block to split it to both amps. Then, you'll also need run two short 8 gauge ground wires from each amp to somewhere in the trunk near the deck or the front of the wheel wells. There might be some factory grounds in there somewhere.
The other option is to run RCA's and an amp turn-on wire back from the head unit instead of using the ford wiring. This will probably give you a little better sound quality depending on the head unit you choose. Here's a nice set of 4 channel RCA cables that have an amp signal wire built into them (notice the extra wire in the picture).
StreetWires ZeroNoise® 9 Series 4-channel Patch Cables High-performance cables with superior noise rejection at Crutchfield.com
The important thing here is that regardless of the option you choose, you still don't have to run wire to each individual speaker.. you can just use the ford wiring for that.
Homer
This amplifier looks like it's about the same size as the ford amps. 2 of them should fit.
Notice how it has a white plug on the side? That's for the line-level inputs. The amp comes with a harness that plugs into that. You'll connect the line-level input harness that comes with each amp to the ford wiring coming from the head unit. Rather than trying to guess the colors of those wires (and having to cut the factory wires, use the following kit:
Metra Electronics - Products
The picture has 3 harnesses in it. The first two harnesses are for your head unit. The gray rectangular harness is for the power to the head unit (12V constant, switched, ground, amp turn on, illumination, etc). The square black harness is for the speaker wires that connect to the head unit's harness.
The third harness in that picture with the two plugs on it is the amp bypass harness, and that's what you'll use to integrate those aftermarket amps into the factory ford wiring. Cut that harness in half, because you're not bypassing any amps, you're replacing them and using this plug as an adaptor so the aftermarket amps' inputs and outputs plug directly into the ford input and output harnesses. One side will connect to the line-level input harnesses that come with the amps and will plug into the speaker harness coming from the head unit, and the other side will connect to the speaker outputs of the amp and will connect to the ford plug that goes to all the speakers.
I think you might need to find the amp signal wire in the harness that comes from the head unit that plugs into the factory amp, because that amp bypass harness doesn't have a provision for that.
You "could" use the power and ground wires for the factory amps, but I don't know how thick they are. Plus, you'd have to splice into them, and the whole goal of this is to not cut any of the ford wiring. It's just better to run an 8 Gauge wire from the battery and use a distribution block to split it to both amps. Then, you'll also need run two short 8 gauge ground wires from each amp to somewhere in the trunk near the deck or the front of the wheel wells. There might be some factory grounds in there somewhere.
The other option is to run RCA's and an amp turn-on wire back from the head unit instead of using the ford wiring. This will probably give you a little better sound quality depending on the head unit you choose. Here's a nice set of 4 channel RCA cables that have an amp signal wire built into them (notice the extra wire in the picture).
StreetWires ZeroNoise® 9 Series 4-channel Patch Cables High-performance cables with superior noise rejection at Crutchfield.com
The important thing here is that regardless of the option you choose, you still don't have to run wire to each individual speaker.. you can just use the ford wiring for that.
Homer
i think you guys are making it harder than it is. i put an alpine head unit in with the adaptive harness. the highs kick not so much for bass. so i put a 10" sub in the back and it rocks. cake... no wiring probs, no riping out harnes's.
You're right, you can just throw in the amp integration harness behind the head unit and be done with it. Simple as that.
That is, if that's all you are changing is the head unit.
If you want to upgrade the speakers, you don't need full range amplifiers, they'll sound OK and you can just use the amp bypass harness. But if you want to get the most out of the speakers, a full range 4 channel amp (or two 2-channel amps) is the way to go.
The Mach 460 system actually makes upgrading the speakers and amplifiers an easier process than the base sound system. Why? Because you can access all the speaker wires in the trunk where the factory amps hook up to them, instead of having to run wires speaker wires from the trunk up to the head unit to connect to them at the factory plug there, or worse, individually to each speaker in the doors, etc.
Homer
That is, if that's all you are changing is the head unit.
If you want to upgrade the speakers, you don't need full range amplifiers, they'll sound OK and you can just use the amp bypass harness. But if you want to get the most out of the speakers, a full range 4 channel amp (or two 2-channel amps) is the way to go.
The Mach 460 system actually makes upgrading the speakers and amplifiers an easier process than the base sound system. Why? Because you can access all the speaker wires in the trunk where the factory amps hook up to them, instead of having to run wires speaker wires from the trunk up to the head unit to connect to them at the factory plug there, or worse, individually to each speaker in the doors, etc.
Homer
IUP99snake, I'm driving up to Orlando when it comes time to install a stereo. I already have an aftermarket head unit. I'm clueless when it comes to stereos. :??:
Haha sounds good. I'm buyin a house in a couple weeks with a nice big garage. Buy me a case of beer or help me with something on my car that I'm clueless about, and we'll call it even! :beer::beer:
Homer
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