Little help with mods here

wudekstyle

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Hey I'm back with a few questions for my friend's new 04 GT. What are some cheap or "free"mods that are worthwhile? I've heard of removing the airbox silencer....anything else free and does removing the silencer actually provide gains or just for sound? Also, I don't remember off the top of my head where the intake sits but we would most definitely need a heat shield if we slapped a K&N and MAF adapter on it right? He doesn't like the sound of the Magnaflow system on our other friends 01 Cobra, any other recommendations? I know flowmasters sound AMAZING on a 5.0, but are they still up to par on the 4.6? Just looking for a little help for him, I can do the work and teach him how, just need to know what we can do cheapest and most efficent. Thanx guys.:beer:
 

poopnut2

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Usual first mods are:
-Offroad H w/ flows. You'll sound like every other mustang, but that's not a bad thing.
-Shifter, Steeda or Pro 5.0 are the most popular
-Cold Air kit, you're fine running a K&N minus the air silencer it just doesn't look as pretty.
-Underdrive pulleys
-Gears, 3.73's or 4.10's depending on how you drive your car everyday

I would do those first and it'll make driving a lot more fun.
 

wudekstyle

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So just get a K&N drop in in the stock airbox - silencer? Or are you saying a K&N cone filter will fit in there? Does offroad H involve removing a cat, don't think so, just making sure. How reliable are the underdrive pullies on these engines, or is it everything except the harmonic balancer? How easy is it to replace the gears?! It struck me as a harder job that required more tools and a professional maybe, but if we can do it in an afternoon...sorry for 20 questons. :-D
 

jam2u

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A Stock Replacement K&N Filter without the silencer. Off-Road H means replacing the pipe section from headers, past converters, to factory cat-back. Indeed, you would remove the whole section that the cats are in and not replace them. Underdrive pulleys are actually 3 pulleys, one for the crank, one for the alternator and one for the water pump...all direct replacement and use the factory belt. Changing the gears will require a professional.
 

wudekstyle

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Ok, a little surprise here. He got a Flowmaster American Thunder catback for Valentine's day from his gf. We're going to put it on sometime soon with the included clamps then drive to the shop to have the slip fits welded. I figure it will cost about $20 to weld or less. Cool deal. Few questions though....what K&N filter part # are you guys running for this engine? Where can a cheap MAF adapter be had and what is the optimal size needed? And where the hell is the silencer? I took a lookie and all that was there was air box and the fender draw piece....are you guys removing the fender draw piece? I don't think that is a very good idea if so. Also, I noticed there are NO plug wires. I came to the conclusion that there was no coil pack, therefore the plugs have their own individual coils and they are located in between the injectors....is this a correct assumption? If so, that must suck to have to remove the fuel rail to change spark plugs. :dw:
 

poopnut2

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Take off the air box and there is a goofy looking piece of plastic in the fenderwell, yank that shit out. Go to any store that sells K&N's and tell them you want one for an 04' Mustang GT. They should have them. I definately recommend a professional on the gears, that's not something you want to mess up.

Offroad H pipe can be put on in about 20 minutes. Remember to get a set of MIL eliminators though or your check engine light will come on.
 

wudekstyle

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Take off the air box and there is a goofy looking piece of plastic in the fenderwell, yank that shit out. Go to any store that sells K&N's and tell them you want one for an 04' Mustang GT. They should have them.
So it is the fenderwell draw you are removing....has anyone had this difference dyno'd? Im' under the impression that this would actually hurt performance by introducing hot air to the filter....unless the hot air doesn't move over there because it is fairly far from the block...I was also inquiring about a conical filter to use with a MAF adapter, not a "drop in" replacement. E.g. I use RU-3530 with a MAF adapter for my engine because it is an optimal filter for the flow requirements.....what filter would he use for his? If hot air in fact does not get that far or adversely affect that area, it would make sense to ditch the stock box in general for a free flowing filter.....I don't think he'll be getting an offroad h pipe anytime soon or at all. We are in CA and that would not only void his warranty, but is illegal for smog and in general.
 

XCELR8

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Originally posted by wudekstyle
So it is the fenderwell draw you are removing....has anyone had this difference dyno'd? Im' under the impression that this would actually hurt performance by introducing hot air to the filter....unless the hot air doesn't move over there because it is fairly far from the block...I was also inquiring about a conical filter to use with a MAF adapter, not a "drop in" replacement. E.g. I use RU-3530 with a MAF adapter for my engine because it is an optimal filter for the flow requirements.....what filter would he use for his? If hot air in fact does not get that far or adversely affect that area, it would make sense to ditch the stock box in general for a free flowing filter.....I don't think he'll be getting an offroad h pipe anytime soon or at all. We are in CA and that would not only void his warranty, but is illegal for smog and in general.

I was wondering the same thing too. I thought when you yanked that rubber thingy that connects the intake to the fender well, it would just introduce warmer air to the engine. Everyone says do this, is it true?
 

poopnut2

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The air in the fender does not get warmer and the air you're sucking in usually isn't there to get warm long enough anyways. Basically doing this, you're just able to suck more air in. If you want the best induction, go with an anderson power pipe. I'm just trying to save you some cash.
 

wudekstyle

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The air in the fender does not get warmer and the air you're sucking in usually isn't there to get warm long enough anyways. Basically doing this, you're just able to suck more air in. If you want the best induction, go with an anderson power pipe. I'm just trying to save you some cash.
I'm not saying the air in the fender gets wamer...what I'm questioning is the benefit of removing the fender draw. That piece is there to pull air ONLY through the fender well. If you take the piece out, the warmer air from under the hood, that was previously being blocked, is now introduced to the exposed filter. So now the issue is : Is the increased air flow to the filter enough to offset the fact that the increased air available is SIGNIFICANTLY warmer than before. :idea: I was looking at a BBK kit in the Brother's performance catalog that actually puts an open filter IN the fender well and blocks the opening with a shield so it basically ONLY pulls air through the fender well but should result in increased flow. I might have to recommend the BBK unit or a like product to him. Are there any dyno sheets available around here from stock to ANY aftermarket intake for the GT?
 

poopnut2

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It shouldn't matter much. Especially since K&N designs their filter charger system for the GT's to stay under the hood. It has a small heat shield on it, but c'mon, it's a piece of plastic between the filter and intake manifold. For looks especially, just buy a cold-air kit. Either way, you're not gonna see a significant gain in power, 5 to the wheels TOPS.
 

jam2u

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AEM Provides Dyno Sheets For Most It's Applications - Here are ones for a 2001 Mustang GT...
torque_change.jpg

hp_change.jpg
 

wudekstyle

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Thanx guys, for the price I think I'll just tell him to get a BBK cold air kit or something, they're cheap enough. The thing was that I didn't want him LOSING power by introducing the filter to hot air. I need to make my heatshield, I'm just too lazy. When every 11 degree difference makes a 1% diff. in power output, hot air can quickly kill your hopes. You guys know about this one right?:beer:
 

wudekstyle

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Well......
Ok, a little surprise here. He got a Flowmaster American Thunder catback for Valentine's day from his gf. We're going to put it on sometime soon with the included clamps then drive to the shop to have the slip fits welded. I figure it will cost about $20 to weld or less. Cool deal.
That was posted about 5 posts up.....it's not my car either, as shown by my constant reference to "he" and "him".:D If it was my car and I was going for performance, I would not get Flowmaster.....but it's his car and he doesn't know anything, nor care about a few HP difference. Either way, it was FREE and it will sound absolutely beautiful.:thumbsup:
 

wudekstyle

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Well we did it, took us 3.5 hours because we had to jack the car off the axles to fit the new tailpipes over the axle and the hangers were $%^$^@%*:mj:. It sounds better of course, but not as loud as I expected. Oh well. Any clues on the gains from this, I don't expect to see too much...
 

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