Look over my rebuild plan

[TRMN8RCRIS]

Alright SVTP, now with the machine shop issue out of the way is on to picking the parts my self and I need some serious help being a first timer on this.

The block has already been bored .20 over and my heads, crank, and rods are good to go. I've been doing some research and have come up with this:

Stuck between Diamond, MMR/Manley I want to be 9.5 CR, would a 5.2 cc dish be what I am looking for? Also, I do plan on upgrading cams in the future, valve reliefs/notching with stock heads/cams be a problem? What about coatings?

Total Seal AP Steel Rings

Trend H13 Tool Steel Wrist Pins

Billet Oil Pump (what brand?)

Tensioner Billet Upgrade, would the block be enough?

ARP Hardware

I think thats it, I am on a budget and as much as I would like to go all out, I just need to take care of the necessary. This isn't a 1000 hp build.

I need as much as advice and guidance on this as possible, Thanks again!

-Update

So did more browsing online and I came up with this
http://www.modularheadshop.com/drp-30011.aspx
So Diamond -5.2CC .020 Over Bore with valve reliefs (going to give them a call tomorrow to see what CR that will put me at), no coatings (couldn't find any info on why I should) and H13 tool steel .205" wrist pins
Total Seal Ap Steel Rings
That right there puts me at $1079

Billet Oil pump a must or would a High Flow pump do just fine?

What are all the one time bolts? I got the rod bolts, headstuds, main studs, and side bolts. What else am I missing?

I totally forgot about bearings, I'm gonna have to call the machine shop tomorrow on that. And headgasket?

 

[Oiljunkie]

no need to the get the .205 H13 wrist pins. The .155 H13 pins will do just fine and will save you in machine work balancing the rotating assembly.
The 5.2cc pistons will put you above 9.7:1, which unless your running E85 is borderline high for a boosted motor
Get TSS pump gear in your stock pump housing and your good there
Closes adjustable cam gear IMO are money well spent to degree your cams, however they can be done down the road when you go with aftermarket cams.

 

[TRMN8RCRIS]

no need to the get the .205 H13 wrist pins. The .155 H13 pins will do just fine and will save you in machine work balancing the rotating assembly.
The 5.2cc pistons will put you above 9.7:1, which unless your running E85 is borderline high for a boosted motor
Get TSS pump gear in your stock pump housing and your good there
Closes adjustable cam gear IMO are money well spent to degree your cams, however they can be done down the road when you go with aftermarket cams.

I called the website I want to order from and asked them about the CR on those Diamond -5.2cc they said that will put me on too high of a compression with pump gas, they recommended me going with Wiesco 13cc pistons that already come with valve reliefs, their wrist pins are 9310 alloy instead of H13 tool steel.

Who sells trend wrist pins? I can't find any dealers!

Machine shop called, the bearings have been replaced.. Same thing with the tty bolts. They aren't ARP though.

I am going to go ahead and order the timing tensioner and all the ARP fasteners (headstuds, mainstuds, sidebolts, and rod bolts) what other bolts need to be replaced? Also might as well order the bearings. OEM MLS headgasket is the way to go right?

And I'm not touching the heads in till I upgrade cams.

Said pistons: http://www.modularheadshop.com/WIS-K0080XS.aspx

Those Wiescos come with a gas nitrided steel top ring and napier 2nd Ring with a 3 piece oil ring. I read good things about the gas nitrided steel rings. Only thing I am worried about would be the pins which will be a 9310 alloy. How does the 9310 alloy match up aganist H13 tool steel? I will run a .225 wall to be on the safe side.

If not I'll just pay a little more and get the Diamonds with the total seal ap steel rings and H13 pins.

I am worried now on what bearings the machine shop went with. Are coatings on the bearings necessary?

 

[TRMN8RCRIS]

please help!

 

[TRMN8RCRIS]

Decided to go with Diamond -11.5 dish pistons with no valve reliefs. Total seal ap steel rings and H13 tool steel .155" wrist pins. Bought all ARP fasteners (ARP2000 rod bolts and headstuds, ARP main side bolts, and main studs). Also bought a KB BAP. The machine shop went with ACL bearings.

Will be buying all new gaskets, seals, and belts as I didn't plan on reusing any of that. The radiator hoses and clamps looked like brand new. The previous owner had all new billet flow pulleys, I think they will be fine. I will be ordering the lethal head cooling mod and the cobra engineering passenger tensioner. What are your opinions on re torquing the head studs? I'm not sure if I should or not. I forgot to order the TSS billet oil pump gear, will order that next.

Btw, with the new pistons and arp hardware, stock rods and crank, what do you think will be the most this short block can handle.

 

[Oiljunkie]

Good choice on Pistons, rings and wrist pins. That's exactly what I had first time around then the machine shop told us I needed a bore as 1 cylinder got hot.

Go with the cobra engineering head cooling mod. It's cleaner and easier then the lethal one.

With that set up I would say 800's all day with a big blower. With turbo's it might be good well above that #. Might be a good idea to get the crank pulley bolt drilled out to fit the bigger arp hardware. There is some good info on it here. I wish I had done it

 

[TRMN8RCRIS]

Good choice on Pistons, rings and wrist pins. That's exactly what I had first time around then the machine shop told us I needed a bore as 1 cylinder got hot.

Go with the cobra engineering head cooling mod. It's cleaner and easier then the lethal one.

With that set up I would say 800's all day with a big blower. With turbo's it might be good well above that #. Might be a good idea to get the crank pulley bolt drilled out to fit the bigger arp hardware. There is some good info on it here. I wish I had done it

Thanks, with all the searching around these forums that seemed to be the best combo. Good thing I haven't ordered the lethal hcm, the cobra engineering does seem better, Just have to do an egr delete. Now that you say about getting the crank pulley drilled out I realized I never ordered arp bolts for the crankshaft. The previous owner did however put a new lower so I wonder if he changed out the bolt too.

My way later down the road mods include a big blower so hopefully I won't have to touch the short block again.

 

[Nolimit]

crank pulley bolt drilled out????? say whaaaaat




i to am working on a rebuild plan...this very beneficial informaiton

 

[TRMN8RCRIS]

crank pulley bolt drilled out????? say whaaaaat




i to am working on a rebuild plan...this very beneficial informaiton

I see you're in socal, what shop are you going with?

 

[Nolimit]

After doing much research, i think I have set my mind on L&R. Engines out of Santa Dr springs in LA. I spoke with Derrick and seems experienced. Also after doing the research I have found a lot of happy customers and 0 complaints

 

[Nolimit]

I also was thinking about going with MMR but I have found some reviews of unhappy customers and some of happy customers and their prices make me want to go try them out but I don't have that much money to risk

 

[TRMN8RCRIS]

I kinda wish I went there, its a bit far from me but they seem to be the place to go in SoCal. Wish I had found them earlier!

 

[Nolimit]

Went where?

 

[Nolimit]

How's the rebuild coming?