Have been considering the Enkei RPF1 in 18x9 front and 18x10.5 rear, but would cost me over $1200 just for wheels. Any suggestions on any other brands? I'd really like to find some used light weight wheels in this size but that is probably a long shot. I'm wanting to run 275 width up front with Hoosiers from the Koni/now Continental Challenge series and 315 NT01s in the rear.
Looking for new light weight wheels
- Thread starter SKMCOBRA
- Start date
I looked on that site and I couldn't get 18" to come up on that model. They do have 17" and WOW are they LIGHT! And relatively cheap, I think would be interested in these in 17" even if I had to buy new tires.
They look a little like 10th Anniversary 03 rims that have been put on a serious diet... like a bulimia diet. I like em!
Front
* • Size: 17x9, 22mm Offset
* • Price: $250 (each)
* • Est. Availability: 03/01/10
* • Weight: 15.9lbs.
Last edited:
Wheels can be light, cheap or strong.. you can only have 2 though. RPF1s are light and fairly strong. The 17s are resonably affordable.
Why do you want to run bigger in the rear? That is going to kill your ability to find anything cheap and light.
Why do you want to run bigger in the rear? That is going to kill your ability to find anything cheap and light.
Last edited:
I'm running cheap and strong right now, 95Rs are about 23#. Kinda sorta light:shrug: but not compared to 15.9 though.:uh oh:
Also wondering about the 315 rears...
Shannon are you trying to suppress over steer in your set up?
Or have you gone twin turbo on us??? J/K
Last edited:
Yes. The real 95 Rs are decently light but super strong. I have already bent an expensive light wheel on the Cobra... I'm over it. I have 95Rs on the new track car.
Discount tire has MB Weapon and MB Competition wheels in 17X9 Cobra friendly offsets. Both these wheels are in the low 20# range (Competition is the lighter of the two) and run $140-$150 each.
I would be concerned about running the different tread compounds front and rear. Arn't the Hoosiers a stickier tire than the NT01s. I think it would be cheaper in the long run to run the Hoosiers in 275 all the way around. That is what I did on my Cobra that puts down 500rwhp and I never had any issues with the 275 rear width, and I ran the 18" Hoosiers scuffs.
Those Enkei wheels are nice. I know a guy who runs those. I have never heard him say anything good or bad about them, but they look cool.
Those Enkei wheels are nice. I know a guy who runs those. I have never heard him say anything good or bad about them, but they look cool.
Last edited:
Did it bend on track or on the street? Brand? Model? Cast?
Those MBs are supposed to be a very nice compromise wheel. I wonder if they have 18" to accommodate the recent scrubs availability shift.
The dilemma I am seeing is the jump to 18" adds a good amount of rotating weight, moves it into a larger diameter placement and the tires(if forced to buy new) and wheels are even more money Lose- Lose-Lose-lose-lose!
Trying to save money on tires?... yes, good idea.... but buying 4... 18" wheels that don't add rotating weight is a pretty expensive proposition.
I love how my car feels so much more nimble with the 17" track wheels and tires. I currently have, 95Rs and Kumho 710s.
I can FEEL the difference easily(the Chrome stockers are HEAVY!), the acceleration is the most noticeable.
Since I'm still "grounded" by my doctors there will be no spending binges in my near future.
Once ok'd I'm more inclined to spend any moneys on entry fees, front pads, FUEL, and motel.
Once I cord these, then I'll have some serious decisions to make.
'
'
.
Probably end up in a damn spec Miata:bash: Momentum slomentum... ugh! Decisions, decisions.:nonono:
This is a damn expensive hobby once the hook is firmly set!
..
Did it bend on track or on the street? Brand? Model? Cast?
Those MBs are supposed to be a very nice compromise wheel. I wonder if they have 18" to accommodate the recent scrubs availability shift.
The dilemma I am seeing is the jump to 18" adds a good amount of rotating weight, moves it into a larger diameter placement and the tires(if forced to buy new) and wheels are even more money Lose- Lose-Lose-lose-lose!
Trying to save money on tires?... yes, good idea.... but buying 4... 18" wheels that don't add rotating weight is a pretty expensive proposition.
I love how my car feels so much more nimble with the 17" track wheels and tires. I currently have, 95Rs and Kumho 710s.
I can FEEL the difference easily(the Chrome stockers are HEAVY!), the acceleration is the most noticeable.
Since I'm still "grounded" by my doctors there will be no spending binges in my near future.
Once ok'd I'm more inclined to spend any moneys on entry fees, front pads, FUEL, and motel.
Once I cord these, then I'll have some serious decisions to make.
'
'
.
Probably end up in a damn spec Miata:bash: Momentum slomentum... ugh! Decisions, decisions.:nonono:
This is a damn expensive hobby once the hook is firmly set!
..
I bent the wheel on the track. I cut through a chicane a little tight and put the wheel off at 60+ MPH. It was a WedSport wheel, 18X9, and weighs 19 lbs. Was running a 275/35/18 on it. It is a cast wheel. I ended up gust getting another to replace it but my bent one should be repairable as a spare.
I have since moved to a new track car, a Mazda RX7 and I have 95R Cobra wheels on it. I'm actually having more fun it it than I did in my Cobra. I got my 95R wheels used but if I were buying new, I would have got the MBs. They are pretty nice, and very durable.
The 18x9 MB Weapons are not in a Cobra friendly offset unfortunately.
If you wanted to step up to a 18X9.5, you have a couple options from Rota that are available in 18X9.5 +20 (2000 Cobra R spec) and available in a variety of colors for around $900 a set. Rota wheels are cast and are decently light and pretty strong.
Also they have a few styles in 18X9 +20 for around $900 a set.
Last edited:
I just picked up a set of Enkei RPF1's 17x9 up front and 17x9 in the rear.
I don't thing that there is another option that is this light. Most wheels are 20# or more.
If you don't want to spend the cash on the Enkei's, your best options are the wheels people have listed or you could look into the Maximum Motorsport Konig wheel. I really like the look of them and they are only about $160 each.
I don't thing that there is another option that is this light. Most wheels are 20# or more.
If you don't want to spend the cash on the Enkei's, your best options are the wheels people have listed or you could look into the Maximum Motorsport Konig wheel. I really like the look of them and they are only about $160 each.
The dilemma I am seeing is the jump to 18" adds a good amount of rotating weight, moves it into a larger diameter placement and the tires(if forced to buy new) and wheels are even more money Lose- Lose-Lose-lose-lose!
Good Points! ;-)
You only need enough wheel to clear your calipers.
I have 17" for track days and 18 stockers for DD. I can REALLY tell the difference on acelleration, braking, and turn in with the bigger wheels.
Plus the physics. Two wheels with the same weight, the larger diameter wheel is going to take more energy to get moving and then to stop or turn. Spokes and centers don't add a lot of extra weight between a 17 and an 18 " wheel, the rim does. Move that out an inch and it takes even more energy to change direction.
Try the weight on a string.
Swing a nut around on 12" of string. Let it out to 24" and feel the difference on the pull. All about levers.
The Law of Levers
Force (F) multiplied by the length of the force arm (Af) is equal to the resistance (R) multiplied by the length of the resistance arm (Ar). This can be stated as follows:
F X Af = R X Ar
Increase Ar increases F even if R remains the same.
Good Points! ;-)
You only need enough wheel to clear your calipers.
I have 17" for track days and 18 stockers for DD. I can REALLY tell the difference on acelleration, braking, and turn in with the bigger wheels.
Plus the physics. Two wheels with the same weight, the larger diameter wheel is going to take more energy to get moving and then to stop or turn. Spokes and centers don't add a lot of extra weight between a 17 and an 18 " wheel, the rim does. Move that out an inch and it takes even more energy to change direction.
Try the weight on a string.
Swing a nut around on 12" of string. Let it out to 24" and feel the difference on the pull. All about levers.
The Law of Levers
Force (F) multiplied by the length of the force arm (Af) is equal to the resistance (R) multiplied by the length of the resistance arm (Ar). This can be stated as follows:
F X Af = R X Ar
Increase Ar increases F even if R remains the same.
Last edited:
the RPF1s are definitely a nice wheel, I have a few buddies who run them.
I run the MB battles in 17x9.5 though, they clear the 00r brembos and they're dirt cheap
They even look good which I didn't think they would.
I run a 275/40/17 on them and like how they fit on the 9.5 much better than on just a 9.0
IIRC they weigh 21 lbs each and they've put up with my track abuse well.
I run the MB battles in 17x9.5 though, they clear the 00r brembos and they're dirt cheap
They even look good which I didn't think they would.
I run a 275/40/17 on them and like how they fit on the 9.5 much better than on just a 9.0
IIRC they weigh 21 lbs each and they've put up with my track abuse well.
Last edited:
What you are neglecting is the tire/wheel combo. If you stick to the same diameter tire, the reduction in sidewall of the tire can make up for some of that increase in inertia from the wheel.
This is, of course, a moot point if you run the same sidewall with a smaller tire on the smaller wheel. Then it is all around a lighter rotating mass with less inertia, however your gearing changes as well. Which if you are looking for lower gearing is a plus side to the shorter tires as well, however you may need to use another gear on a long track because of it, which could be a pretty big negative depending on the track configuration.
What you are neglecting is the tire/wheel combo. If you stick to the same diameter tire, the reduction in sidewall of the tire can make up for some of that increase in inertia from the wheel.
Um, not exactly how it works. Rubber being much less dense than aluminium.
Let's compare.
Note on the Enkei site. 17x9 15.9 lb 17x10 17 lb and guess where that extra lb is? where you want it least. Tires are the same....
18 " is just as bad, strange that it isn't a lb heavier, though.
18X9 18.4 lb
18x10 19.1 lb
.
So.......
same tire/ wheel just a one inch difference.
Hoosier A6's
245/35ZR18
21 lbs. <<<
24.7"
17x9 wheel 15.9 lbs
total 26.9 lbs
245/40ZR17 (same bulge, tad 5% more sidewall height)
21 lbs. <<<
24.5"
18x9 wheel 18.4 lbs
total 29.4 lbs
Same diameter, -within 2/10 inch- (245/40-17 has 2.0 inch wider tread BTW) more weight.. and where you want it least.....like the man said lose lose lose:nonono:
Um, not exactly how it works. Rubber being much less dense than aluminium.
Let's compare.
Note on the Enkei site. 17x9 15.9 lb 17x10 17 lb and guess where that extra lb is? where you want it least. Tires are the same....
18 " is just as bad, strange that it isn't a lb heavier, though.
18X9 18.4 lb
18x10 19.1 lb
.
So.......
same tire/ wheel just a one inch difference.
Hoosier A6's
245/35ZR18
21 lbs. <<<
24.7"
17x9 wheel 15.9 lbs
total 26.9 lbs
245/40ZR17 (same bulge, tad 5% more sidewall height)
21 lbs. <<<
24.5"
18x9 wheel 18.4 lbs
total 29.4 lbs
Same diameter, -within 2/10 inch- (245/40-17 has 2.0 inch wider tread BTW) more weight.. and where you want it least.....like the man said lose lose lose:nonono:
Last edited:
I love my MB Comps.. Running the NT01 on them.
Now just to piss on the camp fire a little more...hmm eeewww :dw: maybe I shoulda just stuck with rain on the parade...
ANYWAY..........
What happens if next year Grand Am or Ford or whoever changes de rigueur to 19" wheels and tires???
As this fashion driven trend spirals out of control the next easy availability of scrubs becomes 19s and WHAMO!
Those scrubs had better be DIRT CHEAP because the wheels are going to be way pricey in order to get a decently light wheel
.
And now ya gotta unload the 18s.:bash:
I have noticed that heavily heat cycled 275/40R17 Kumho 710s wear like IRON!
Do they grip like Hoosiers????:lol: Right!
Actually I really like sliding...It's not drifting though .. you know.. just an old school Bondurant, Gurney, Andretti or a Gilles Villeneuve 4 wheel drift.
It just feels good.:-D
Obviously by now you've realized that I am not looking for the BEST LAP TIMES and the bragging rights that go with them. My pockets aren't deep enough. Not exactly an ideal "sports car" either.
I'm just hoping that NASA and SCCA will still be producing reasonably priced scrubs in my size for a good while.
ANYWAY..........
What happens if next year Grand Am or Ford or whoever changes de rigueur to 19" wheels and tires???
As this fashion driven trend spirals out of control the next easy availability of scrubs becomes 19s and WHAMO!
Those scrubs had better be DIRT CHEAP because the wheels are going to be way pricey in order to get a decently light wheel
.
And now ya gotta unload the 18s.:bash:
I have noticed that heavily heat cycled 275/40R17 Kumho 710s wear like IRON!
Do they grip like Hoosiers????:lol: Right!
Actually I really like sliding...It's not drifting though .. you know.. just an old school Bondurant, Gurney, Andretti or a Gilles Villeneuve 4 wheel drift.
It just feels good.:-D
Obviously by now you've realized that I am not looking for the BEST LAP TIMES and the bragging rights that go with them. My pockets aren't deep enough. Not exactly an ideal "sports car" either.
I'm just hoping that NASA and SCCA will still be producing reasonably priced scrubs in my size for a good while.
Well let me try to answer several questions posed here. TireRack was selling the 18's up until recently but they are about $50+ more per wheel. I am sure they can still order them even if they aren't listed on their website.I looked on that site and I couldn't get 18" to come up on that model. They do have 17" and WOW are they LIGHT! And relatively cheap, I think would be interested in these in 17" even if I had to buy new tires.
They look a little like 10th Anniversary 03 rims that have been put on a serious diet... like a bulimia diet. I like em!
Front
* • Size: 17x9, 22mm Offset
* • Price: $250 (each)
* • Est. Availability: 03/01/10
* • Weight: 15.9lbs.
I want to run 18" for the simple fact that the Continental Challenge tires are all 18's now for the Mustangs. They will be easier to find scrubs for. Only the rear of the Porches run the 17's in a 275 and when I was in Daytona in Jan walking the garages I couldn't find anyone willing to sell me any. I also want a wider tire in the rear, at least a 295, because my home track at Hallett has two very tight turns. Even with my Slobra I can't get any grip out of turns 2 or 9 in 2nd gear and I've only got 3.73's. Imagine what it'd be like if I was running 4.10's!
Let me add that I may just shuck the whole idea and run the 03 Cobra wheels again this year. I'd like to buy a trailer if I can find a place to safely store one and I'd also like to install a MM k-member and front control arms to lighten her up a bit in the front. Decisions, decisions. There is only so much play money a year!
Did you miss that word in my statement? I didn't say the bigger wheel tire combo would be the same, I just said with the increase in wheel diameter you can't just directly add the additional weight of the wheel. There is a SMALL reduction in tire weight that goes with it. Rubber is less dense than aluminum but steel belts aren't. Either way, yes the bigger wheels and tires are going to weigh more.
However, if you want to go faster you will eventually need bigger brakes unless you like fade and an 18" wheel will get you whatever it is you need. If you are planning on going faster you might as well get the bigger wheels now so that you don't have to get new wheels again in the future.
As far as the Continental tire changing. It won't be for at least 5 years probably more like 10. The new Boss 302R has been brought into the series already with the same 18" tires we currently run. Car are usually on a 5 year cycle and you can run an old cars for up to 5 years after it leaves production. Even the Challenger and Camaro that have factory 19" wheels aren't allowed anything bigger than an 18". I am guessing that is because Hoosier, err, I mean Conitnental doesn't want the expense of creating a new mold. Why would they want to go 19" anyways? They already have 15" rotors under those 18" wheels the Camaros are running
I started pretty much just agreeing with Jimmysidecarr observation that bigger rims than you need add other problems.
I'm a club racer with limited budget, in fact I've been an econoracer since the mid '77's. :shrug: I like cheap and buying 4-5 sets of 17" tires a season is MUCH cheaper than buying 4-5 sets of 18" tires.
That doesn't always work though because the 255/16 A6's on the A/Sedan car are about the same price as the 22.5x9.5/15" slicks I use on the new car. Still have to budget for 4-5 sets.
Moving on.
Did you miss that word in my statement? nope. Got it. Read it several times I didn't say the bigger wheel tire combo would be the same, I just said with the increase in wheel diameter you can't just directly add the additional weight of the wheel. Why not?, both size tires weight 21 lbs and are the same diameter -within 2/10th inch or 1%. The 2.5 lbs difference is from wheel weight There is a SMALL reduction in tire weight that goes with it. 21 lbs is 21 lbs Rubber is less dense than aluminum but steel belts aren't. Same diameter would mean same circumference which would mean the same length/ weight of steel belt, right?
Otherwise, Agreed. Gets back to my "just big enough to clear your caliper'... or what rules dictate. Years ago I bought some 16" ROHs from a World Challenge team when rule change mandated 17" rims. They finally gave up the series because bigger wheels meant other teams were using bigger brakes. Couldn't afford to keep up.
Bigger brakes, bigger wheels, BUT if you still have standard Mustang brakes, 17's clear and can have less rotational mass which is a good thing.
Economicswise, if you have 18 rims and can get the tires used AND cheap, of course, go for it.
But if rules allow shorter, physics (and economics) sez that's the way to go.
I'm a club racer with limited budget, in fact I've been an econoracer since the mid '77's. :shrug: I like cheap and buying 4-5 sets of 17" tires a season is MUCH cheaper than buying 4-5 sets of 18" tires.
That doesn't always work though because the 255/16 A6's on the A/Sedan car are about the same price as the 22.5x9.5/15" slicks I use on the new car. Still have to budget for 4-5 sets.
Moving on.
Did you miss that word in my statement? nope. Got it. Read it several times
I didn't say the bigger wheel tire combo would be the same, I just said with the increase in wheel diameter you can't just directly add the additional weight of the wheel. Why not?, both size tires weight 21 lbs and are the same diameter -within 2/10th inch or 1%. The 2.5 lbs difference is from wheel weight There is a SMALL reduction in tire weight that goes with it. 21 lbs is 21 lbs Rubber is less dense than aluminum but steel belts aren't. Same diameter would mean same circumference which would mean the same length/ weight of steel belt, right?Otherwise, Agreed. Gets back to my "just big enough to clear your caliper'... or what rules dictate. Years ago I bought some 16" ROHs from a World Challenge team when rule change mandated 17" rims. They finally gave up the series because bigger wheels meant other teams were using bigger brakes. Couldn't afford to keep up.
Bigger brakes, bigger wheels, BUT if you still have standard Mustang brakes, 17's clear and can have less rotational mass which is a good thing.
Economicswise, if you have 18 rims and can get the tires used AND cheap, of course, go for it.
But if rules allow shorter, physics (and economics) sez that's the way to go.
Last edited:
Users who are viewing this thread
