What RPMs you guys lounching at the track with 680whp and drag radials?
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Lounching at track with NT05
- Thread starter svts197jag
- Start date
Id take it easy on the launches with drag radials. Take off like a quick launch on the street from a stop light. If your try and leavr at a launch rpm like 3-4k and drop the clutch, you'll either spin and blow the tires off or dead hook and break your rear end, bend your axles or both.
If you want to leave like a proper drag car, youll need 15" wheels, a rear sway bar relocation kit amd either Hoosier or Mickey Thompson bias ply slicks or DOT bias ply slicks.
I run 305/45R18s NT05Rs when fooling around on the street. They were my first set of drag tires, but learned the hard way about manual cars and drag radials. Spin city on low prep and way too harsh of an engagement from a full prep surface.
When they did hook, i bent 2 sets of axles. Launch easy and let the TVS get your e.t.
If you want to leave like a proper drag car, youll need 15" wheels, a rear sway bar relocation kit amd either Hoosier or Mickey Thompson bias ply slicks or DOT bias ply slicks.
I run 305/45R18s NT05Rs when fooling around on the street. They were my first set of drag tires, but learned the hard way about manual cars and drag radials. Spin city on low prep and way too harsh of an engagement from a full prep surface.
When they did hook, i bent 2 sets of axles. Launch easy and let the TVS get your e.t.
I run M/T Street PRO, P275/60-15, on 15"x10" rims at 18 psig. I don't know why they term this tire "street", as it is not street legal....
Track conditions determine launch rpm, but have found that 3,000 rpm works most of the time. I do not pop my clutch, but I do release it much quicker than on the street.
Track conditions determine launch rpm, but have found that 3,000 rpm works most of the time. I do not pop my clutch, but I do release it much quicker than on the street.
In addition, I idle when staged. When the last amber light turns on, I nail my gas pedal with my rev limit at 3,000rpm. It's harmful to the engine holding it against the rev limiter for any period of time, so my technique keeps this time to a minimum. Then just before the green light turns on, I release my clutch quickly and away we go.... being pushed back hard in your seat is an awesome feeling with no tire spin.
Are your axle tubes welded? I didn't see an axle upgrade in your mod list. If you are talking about a prepped/good hooking track, you're going to twist the tubes or bend the axles if you dead hook. You are EASILY in the power range to break stuff, and other's have done it with less HP.
That being said, give them a really good 10s burnout, you need to see lots of white smoke, a spotter helps. You don't need to sit on the rev limiter, that just heats the motor up. I'd start at 3500 with a soft dump, 1/8-1/4 throttle out of the hole, and try to not blow the tires off in the 1-2 shift., and you'll be in the 10's!
That being said, give them a really good 10s burnout, you need to see lots of white smoke, a spotter helps. You don't need to sit on the rev limiter, that just heats the motor up. I'd start at 3500 with a soft dump, 1/8-1/4 throttle out of the hole, and try to not blow the tires off in the 1-2 shift., and you'll be in the 10's!
A Swarr or CHE rear axle brace would work WONDERS. Note: I had to have my Swarr brace cut down by 1/4" on each side to work with my BMR relo brackets. Its just good cheap insurance for your rear end.
Take Lexus's advice on launching with drag radials. I've also found out the hard way on that one. A swarr bar and an axle girdle are good insurance. Check out the Ford Racing G2 cover.
Slip the clutch a lot. Radials on a heavy stick car aren’t a great match, it will take some work to make them work.
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Launch with enough RPM to not bog and not too much to blow the tires off. In my car, 3000 to 3500 RPM is just right. Air down your Nittos to 16 psi, 5 second 2nd gear burnout in the water box and they should hook pretty good for you. As others have stated, don't dump the clutch... a quick release works well. Hooking through first gear on the strip is a rush!
Many posts like the last one sum it up but you'll have more fun and be MUCH more consistent with bias ply DOTs like Hoosier QTPs and new ET Street R bias plys.
I've been 9s on a DR with a street stick over 10 years ago and I proved to myself it can be done, but it'll break parts easily and is VERY hard to be consistent on recreational basis with a street stick car. Radials are for street use and automatics for a quick summary.
-J
I've been 9s on a DR with a street stick over 10 years ago and I proved to myself it can be done, but it'll break parts easily and is VERY hard to be consistent on recreational basis with a street stick car. Radials are for street use and automatics for a quick summary.
-J
At 4,000 - 4,500 rpm is what I do....
Guys, I need your advise. I'll be in the market for two tires very soon and can't decide. What would be your choice:
1) Nitto NT05R, P315/40-R18.
This is the tire the Demon uses and it ran a 1.36 short time. I can't stop thinking about this...
2) My current 15-inch M/T Street Pro.
1.60 to 1.70 short times
3) 15-inch bias play drag tires.
Thoughts please.....
1) Nitto NT05R, P315/40-R18.
This is the tire the Demon uses and it ran a 1.36 short time. I can't stop thinking about this...
2) My current 15-inch M/T Street Pro.
1.60 to 1.70 short times
3) 15-inch bias play drag tires.
Thoughts please.....
Willie will you ever street drive on them?
On the Nittos I'd wait to run the Demon spec tires if available.
I think MT has a 325/40/18 that some SRT guys said was tested and faster but they choose Nitto as it's a better street compromise.
If you want 18" DR I also liked M&H 325/40/18 and currently have mounted but never ran Hoosier 325/45/18 they are tall but Pro compound.
There are now 28x10.5x18 true slicks.
I'm going to run 28x11.5x17 MT ET Street R bias as they are DOT.
Nice to have more options now.
What do you want out of the tires? I'm keeping my stock 14" rear brakes so limited to 17-18" otherwise I'd run 15-16" Hoosier QTPs
-J
On the Nittos I'd wait to run the Demon spec tires if available.
I think MT has a 325/40/18 that some SRT guys said was tested and faster but they choose Nitto as it's a better street compromise.
If you want 18" DR I also liked M&H 325/40/18 and currently have mounted but never ran Hoosier 325/45/18 they are tall but Pro compound.
There are now 28x10.5x18 true slicks.
I'm going to run 28x11.5x17 MT ET Street R bias as they are DOT.
Nice to have more options now.
What do you want out of the tires? I'm keeping my stock 14" rear brakes so limited to 17-18" otherwise I'd run 15-16" Hoosier QTPs
-J
Read up on the WEEK of track prep that went into that Demon run, they had more prep then a top fuel race, so don't let that fool ya, also that is a automatic with a trans brake, also look at the d.a.
If the track is prepped the dr's will dead hook and on not so good they will spin no matter what.
I went from MT et streets(18"wheels) to hoosier QTP,(15 inch rim) imop there's not a better tire for a stick car, no matter what prep.
If the track is prepped the dr's will dead hook and on not so good they will spin no matter what.
I went from MT et streets(18"wheels) to hoosier QTP,(15 inch rim) imop there's not a better tire for a stick car, no matter what prep.
In a few weeks here Im ordering full on Hoosier 28x10.5-15 bias slicks. I was going to slowly drive to the track, run hard and slowly drive home on them. Now, Ive decided Id rather not expose those precious slicks to the street. It will be a pain in the ass for sure to change out at the track, but extending my tire life and reducing the risk of a puncture is paramount.
Were I driving to the track, Id pick up a set of Quicktime Pros for sure.
Were I driving to the track, Id pick up a set of Quicktime Pros for sure.
That's what I do with my new QTP's, got a harbor freight aluminum jack and craftsman lithium ion 1/2 inch impact, run on street tires out to the track and bolt on my slicks.
Also I was doing John Force style burnouts and cooked the tires, even tho there was over 50% of rubber left, they went hard and had to buy another set.
Moral of the story is Hoosiers don't need super burnouts.
Also I was doing John Force style burnouts and cooked the tires, even tho there was over 50% of rubber left, they went hard and had to buy another set.
Moral of the story is Hoosiers don't need super burnouts.
Most of these modern sticky compounds just need a few seconds of burnout time, till just a little smoke starts to come off. I know Mickey Thompson advertises their slicks and DOT tires as little to no burn out needed. Im sure Hoosier is no different.
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