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2013-14 Shelby GT500
Lowering TP/PP
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<blockquote data-quote="Tob" data-source="post: 13758520" data-attributes="member: 83412"><p>Those with the greatest success are usually those with the clearest vision of where they want to be. You aren't going to track the car and want a lower, sleeker appearance. A well balanced look with a hint of nasty - but not over the top and as such not subject to the woes that sometimes show up when you take it too far.</p><p></p><p>Pick a spring that (along with the wheel/tire combination you'll be running) makes you happy. If you are keeping the stock dampers, a spring that nearly matches the engineered-in frequency rate will give you the most desirable results from a performance perspective as well great feel in your body and mind.</p><p></p><p>As suggested, add an adjustable panhard bar. A simple modification that allows you to re-center the axle at your new ride height. Pay attention to the type of bushings that are available and keep your long term vision in mind when making a choice.</p><p></p><p>Another highly recommended bolt on (as Silver_Bullet mentioned) is a set of relocation brackets. You have an advantage here as they have matured through years of use/rethinking and the units offered today by a number of manufacturers are far better than what was offered only a few years ago. I highly recommend this mod in concert with the rest of your efforts and if I were to point to a manufacturer of choice for this piece it would be BMR. </p><p></p><p>There you have it. Springs, panhard bar, LCA relocation brackets. You'll spend maybe a third of the Ford Racing number you quoted previously and have something much more to your liking. Beware - that's when the voices in your head will start chanting about control arms. It's a like huge snowball that'll gobble you up and it's all downhill from there.:-D So just stay focused and keep your original goals in mind.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>We're talking '13/'14 models and with that in mind the amount of drop in the context of this discussion doesn't begin to scratch the surface when it comes to either vibration or pinion angle troubles. The CF shaft, with CV joints at each end takes care of the previous S197's two piece shaft issues. And with the OEM upper having been elongated/rebushed in later years (which includes the '13/'14 model) you'll no longer need to vacillate. That is not to say that an adjustable upper isn't a good idea - it is. But necessary for a car that may not ever be tracked? Far from it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tob, post: 13758520, member: 83412"] Those with the greatest success are usually those with the clearest vision of where they want to be. You aren't going to track the car and want a lower, sleeker appearance. A well balanced look with a hint of nasty - but not over the top and as such not subject to the woes that sometimes show up when you take it too far. Pick a spring that (along with the wheel/tire combination you'll be running) makes you happy. If you are keeping the stock dampers, a spring that nearly matches the engineered-in frequency rate will give you the most desirable results from a performance perspective as well great feel in your body and mind. As suggested, add an adjustable panhard bar. A simple modification that allows you to re-center the axle at your new ride height. Pay attention to the type of bushings that are available and keep your long term vision in mind when making a choice. Another highly recommended bolt on (as Silver_Bullet mentioned) is a set of relocation brackets. You have an advantage here as they have matured through years of use/rethinking and the units offered today by a number of manufacturers are far better than what was offered only a few years ago. I highly recommend this mod in concert with the rest of your efforts and if I were to point to a manufacturer of choice for this piece it would be BMR. There you have it. Springs, panhard bar, LCA relocation brackets. You'll spend maybe a third of the Ford Racing number you quoted previously and have something much more to your liking. Beware - that's when the voices in your head will start chanting about control arms. It's a like huge snowball that'll gobble you up and it's all downhill from there.:-D So just stay focused and keep your original goals in mind. We're talking '13/'14 models and with that in mind the amount of drop in the context of this discussion doesn't begin to scratch the surface when it comes to either vibration or pinion angle troubles. The CF shaft, with CV joints at each end takes care of the previous S197's two piece shaft issues. And with the OEM upper having been elongated/rebushed in later years (which includes the '13/'14 model) you'll no longer need to vacillate. That is not to say that an adjustable upper isn't a good idea - it is. But necessary for a car that may not ever be tracked? Far from it. [/QUOTE]
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Lowering TP/PP
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