Maximum Motorsports c/c plates

TClark22

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ok my frame is not messed up...i know that...it was checked when i bought it.

here is my alignment sheet when it was with the stock c/c plates
scan0001.jpg


here is the sheet after the c/c plates
scan0002.jpg


i see alot of red...

i dont have a shop around here that isnt a chain...my speed shop doesnt have one.
 
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todd4566

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I'll assume you installed the plates correctly, so I'll leave that alone. How low is your car?.. my car isn't too low, but I had a little trouble getting my camber into spec. Because of Ford's production tolerances, some cars take more work than others to allign into spec. Your best bet at this point may be to install some camber bolts on your struts. With some camber bolts, you should be able to remove another full degree of negative camber. Lastly, have you what are your caster specs? Variances in caster from side to side can also cause a 'pulling' condition.

*NM, just saw the pic. The red is a result of out-of-spec caster, but that doesn't mean it isn't 'okay.' Ford's recommended caster on these cars is 3.5, but running 4.0+ merits some handling improvements. Leave that alone. Your overall camber isn't that bad either. If you hit turns aggressively around town (as I do on occasion), those settings might even prolong your front tires. LOL.
 
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RDJ

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ok my frame is not messed up...i know that...it was checked when i bought it.

i see alot of red...

i dont have a shop around here that isnt a chain...my speed shop doesnt have one.

Then go over to the next town or the one after that ...
 

006

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I bet you the 4th hole was not drilled properly.

The MM instructions if NOT read properly will cause an inexperienced installer or someone who has never installed/drilled a 4th MM CC plates kit to not elongate the 4th holes in that oval shape like the other 3 stock ones.

The idiot that installed my CC plates for me almost 5 years ago only drilled a single round hole, thus making the CC plates useless for + or - Camber and only good for caster alone. (What a dumb mofo).

I recommend to take one apart and see if the 4th hole was drilled like the rest.

See where markings where the shape of the 4th hole is to be drilled here:
DSC04616.jpg


during...
DSC04620.jpg


More:

http://www.fnsweet.com/garage/ccplates.shtml

They do not provide a good pic of the completed 4th hole.

Ken
 

todd4566

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The idiot that installed my CC plates for me almost 5 years ago only drilled a single round hole, thus making the CC plates useless for + or - Camber and only good for caster alone. (What a dumb mofo).

Good point, but not entirely true. Even if the 4th bolt hole was drilled round, camber adjustment is still possible because the top plate can still slide left/right. However, an elongated 4th hole will allow for a much more broad adjustment range - no argument there. Definitely something worth looking into.
 

fiveoh2go

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006, do you have MM C/C plates? I'm not so sure on the elongating the fourth hole part that you mentioned. This comes directly from the MM C/C plate install instructions I received with mine:


"16. On each side of the car, drill an 1/8" pilot hole on the center-punched mark. Then drill the 1/8" hole to 13/32". Debur the top and bottom of the hole.

17. On the passenger side, install the MM bottom plate beneath the strut tower with the 3/8" bolts protruding upwards. Use the illustration below to select and orient the bottom plates correctly."


It doesn't mention nor does it show any pictures alluding to the need to elongate the fourth hole (drilled by the installer). There are three separate plates, one under the strut tower (with the studs), one on top of the strut tower and the top plate bolted on the very top that kinda looks like a triangle. Your caster adjustment is made with the middle plate, not the stationary bottom plate that everything is bolted to. Just want to throw this out there.
 
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plan b

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Elongating the 4th hole is wrong. Some people have problems with reading comprehension. CC plate install was easy and fairly straightforward. Original poster, check you're balljoints and tie rod ends. They can cause the vibration you're talking about. Brakes also can cause that.
 

inferno03

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The x2 balljoints help with bumpsteer. I put some on my buddy's car along with the steeda bumpsteer kit. I never drove the car after the install so I can't compare his setup vs. mine. CC plates allow proper alignment, not the x2 balljoints.

so then what do they do, just improve steering?
 

006

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Yep, elongating the 4th hole is not mentioned in their instructions. I just pulled up the PDF: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/content/install/pdf/front_susp/MMCC9994v4r8.pdf

I was going by what I thought I'd seen when I skimmed through on the instruction forms before I handed him the box/packaging to install my CC plates 5 years ago. :(

I've never been able to get a proper alignment ever since he installed them, perhaps he did not drill right in the center, I dunno, but all the front tires I've been through since them were always worn out from the outside due to excessive positive camber. Every alignment shop I asked to try and align the car could not do it due to limited movement from the top plate. I recently elongated the 4th hole to allow the bottom plate to move further in, and I can now align my car perfectly as needed.

If you have limited movement, this might be the least expensive solution.
 

mustanglvr95

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my car jerks left or right pretty violently sometimes...i hit a curb like a yr ago...i wonder if my frame is tweaked, i replaced the ball joint for the side i hit..also when i brake at high speeds my steering wheel shakes pretty hard...
 

plan b

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so then what do they do, just improve steering?

Improve the angle of the tie rod ends back to optimal position. When you lower the car from stock you mess up the angle if you don't use the bumpsteer kit. The tie rods should be parallel with the lower control arms. You have to use a bumpsteer guage to dial in bumpsteer. I'm not so sure many shops use these on a regular basis.
 

fiveoh2go

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You have to use a bumpsteer guage to dial in bumpsteer. I'm not so sure many shops use these on a regular basis.

Honestly, the only place I know of that bothers to do this is a race car fabrication shop a buddy of mine works for. Kinda over kill for a "regular" shop to do this.
 

TClark22

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well i took the wheels off and examined everything. moved a spacer from below the plates to above the plates...retorqued the wheels down...filled the tires to 35psi...and still shakes and pulls

this is really starting to piss me off. i am going tomorrow to get the front 2 wheels rebalanced...and the car realigned...and if it still pulls i will kill myself
 

plan b

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well i took the wheels off and examined everything. moved a spacer from below the plates to above the plates...retorqued the wheels down...filled the tires to 35psi...and still shakes and pulls

this is really starting to piss me off. i am going tomorrow to get the front 2 wheels rebalanced...and the car realigned...and if it still pulls i will kill myself

Is the steering wheel centered? Jack the front end up and grab the top and bottom of a wheel and see if there is any play (fore/aft movement). If there is it could be a bad ball joint. Sometimes you can see the play in the ball joint if it's really worn out. Grab the sides of a wheel and do the same thing, be sure the wheel bearings are ok. Are the tie rods secure? Make sure there is no excessive play in them. How about the brakes? Are the rotors grooved out? A caliper sticking can also cause a vehicle to pull hard to one side. Keep at it, you'll figure it out. Make sure they dial the alignment in. Sometimes it takes a while. A lazy or inexperienced mechanic may not do as good a job as you want.
 

zimmer

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I had the same issue. I put on MM CC plates and X2s...ends up I bumped a curb and it was throwing it off a little. I took it to a shop and its been smooth sailing ever since.
 

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