McLeod RXT - 2nd Gear Downshift Trouble

[Canman2531]

I just installed a McLeod RXT twin disc clutch and new McLeod Aluminum Flywheel. Also installed a McLeod Clutch Quadrant and McLeod Firewall Adjuster.

I started with the firewall adjuster pretty far away from the firewall and the clutch cable had no slack. So I now have the firewall adjuster all the way in (towards the firewall) and the clutch pedal probably has 1/8" of slack now before the pedal engages.

From a stop, I can easily row up through the gears--including second. I can also downshift from any gear to any other gear (except second). The problem comes when I try to downshift to 2nd at almost any speed--even coasting. It's as if it's totally locked out.

It seems weird to me that every other shifting combination works perfectly except for downshifting to 2nd.

Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

 

[Four Door SVT]

Adjust it out so you can use second, the springs on the pressure plate settling are the main reason to adjust when new during the initial clutch break-in. Some adjustment is contributed to initial clutch wear. Assuming you got a new pressure plate with everything else.

 

[Canman2531]

Adjust it out so you can use second, the springs on the pressure plate settling are the main reason to adjust when new during the initial clutch break-in. Some adjustment is contributed to initial clutch wear. Assuming you got a new pressure plate with everything else.

Thanks for the reply. Everything is new, including the pressure plate. So is there anything I should be shooting for (like a certain amount of cable slack in the pedal) to determine how far out the adjuster should be, or is it just trial and error?

 

[MG0h3]

Id search out some cable adj threads on here. You are supposed to have the TOB just touching the PP at all times so there should be no slack in the cable.

Not sure that is going to fix your problem though.

 

[Four Door SVT]

You are supposed to have the TOB just touching the PP at all times so there should be no slack in the cable.

This is correct, and you want disengagement at the middle of the pedal movement, so as the pressure plate breaks in you don't get stuck in gear. As you notice the pedal getting closer to the floor adjust it back out.

 

[Canman2531]

Hi guys. Thanks for the replies. I tried adjusting the firewall adjuster to 1/4" - 1/2" away from the firewall. That appeared to make things worse. Shifting was more difficult all around. McLeod suggested that it's a problem with the shift gate or the 2nd gear synchro.

Before I go about rebuilding the trans, I'd like to try adjusting the pivot ball (it needs to be done anyway). I researched around, and it seemed like it was 50/50 on people that needed to adjust vs. not. I left the stock ball in but I have an adjustable.

Right now the clutch engages when the pedal is really high (my knee is almost in the steering wheel). I've read a number of other threads, but I'm still not confident which way I'm supposed to move it:

Which way do I adjust the ball to correct this? Do I make it longer or shorter to move the engagement point of the pedal closer to the firewall?

 

[MG0h3]

Can't recall what brand my adjuster is but its almost all the way out with the stock pivot ball and cable. Clutch engagement is damn near throughout the whole pedal range. Fully engaged/released at the very top.

Never played with the pivot ball but Id venture to say that shortening it would make you have to move the pedal more to operate the clutch. I can't see how that would make shifting any easier though.

You didn't have this trouble before I take it?

 

[Canman2531]

Clutch engagement is damn near throughout the whole pedal range. Fully engaged/released at the very top.

Should it be releasing at the very top?

No. No trouble with anything (except clutch slipping) before this project.

 

[Canman2531]

Not sure if it’ll help, but here are some pictures. These pictures are taken with the firewall adjuster about ½” away from the firewall.

It appears to me that the TOB is touching (I’m not sure how “lightly”) the clutch fingers.

In this position, the clutch fork is laying (pressing?) against the transmission wall.

When I tighten the firewall adjuster (move it farther from the firewall) it pulls the clutch fork closer to the center of the inspection cover. I know you want the fork close to the middle, slightly towards the trans, but i'm not sure I should be achieving this through tightening the clutch cable (should that be the job of the pivot ball?).

I decided to adjust the firewall adjuster to roughly ¾” from the firewall and went for the drive. I’m probably losing my mind, but I think that felt/sounded worse. Still couldn’t downshift to 2nd.

Anybody?

 

[Canman2531]

Update: I drove it around some more. I'm not sure what changed, but all of the sudden, everything works perfectly. Not sure if something settled, or the synchro rattled into place over a bump, but it's working like normal.

Two final questions...
1. which way would I adjust the pivot ball to move the friction point in the clutch pedal closer to the firewall? Right now it engages right at the top of the pedal.
2. I know the break in period is 500 miles of stop and go driving, but what should I be avoiding doing during this time. I realize I shouldn't rev the engine and dump the clutch, but do I need to keep it under half throttle or anything else?

 

[s351]

Did you use an adjustable pivot ball rxt's are known than one should be used for proper pedal height engagement. I had this issue where my clutch pedal would rattle, unless I tightened up my cable but, if I did that my pedal would have way to high of a pedal release.

 

[Canman2531]

Did you use an adjustable pivot ball rxt's are known than one should be used for proper pedal height engagement. I had this issue where my clutch pedal would rattle, unless I tightened up my cable but, if I did that my pedal would have way to high of a pedal release.

I have an adjustable pivot ball but did not install it yet. Did you have to adjust your pivot ball in or out?

 

[s351]

I ended up switching to a dyad, so far so good.

 

[Dave.O]

mine needed the pivot ball tightened all the way down. clutch fork had little to no play with stock pivot ball and RXT

 

[Canman2531]

mine needed the pivot ball tightened all the way down. clutch fork had little to no play with stock pivot ball and RXT

Thanks, Dave. How did you shorten the pivot ball... can you really just screw it in more, or did you remove it cut it and reinstall it, or did you buy a new one that was already short?

 

[svt_snapp]

Thanks, Dave. How did you shorten the pivot ball... can you really just screw it in more, or did you remove it cut it and reinstall it, or did you buy a new one that was already short?

There is only so far you can screw a pivot ball in before it bottoms out. I had a McLeod adjustable pivot ball and i had to cut mine down some and then install it. The pivot ball for mine was shorter. As in closer to the transmission.

 

[P49Y-CY]

Just curious - if everything's working perfectly now, why would you want to mess with the pivot ball? Even if it engages high, that doesn't sound like too much of an issue to go through all that work - my coupe engages real high and that is even with the adjuster screwed almost all the way in.

 

[Canman2531]

There is only so far you can screw a pivot ball in before it bottoms out. I had a McLeod adjustable pivot ball and i had to cut mine down some and then install it. The pivot ball for mine was shorter. As in closer to the transmission.

Thanks again, Dave. I have McLeod's pivot ball sitting on my workbench. I'll do the same once I figure out the length.

Just curious - if everything's working perfectly now, why would you want to mess with the pivot ball? Even if it engages high, that doesn't sound like too much of an issue to go through all that work - my coupe engages real high and that is even with the adjuster screwed almost all the way in.

I thought it was perfect, but I can tell the clutch still slips and is not fully engaged, which I believe is from the TOB putting a little pressure on the clutch fingers. Engine revs but I'm definitely not getting full power like I used to.

 

[Dave.O]

I had to bottom mine all the way out but not cut. I think it may have something to do with what flywheel you use too but not sure.

 

[Canman2531]

I had to bottom mine all the way out but not cut. I think it may have something to do with what flywheel you use too but not sure.

I ended up doing the same thing. No cutting but bottomed out. All good now. Thanks everyone!