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MGW Shifter for X-mas, NO DIRECTIONS!!! Help
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<blockquote data-quote="SublimeRT" data-source="post: 1752879" data-attributes="member: 9879"><p>I don't think I have the directions anymore. But since it's 9:10 AM and I haven't gone to sleep yet cause I'm not tired at all for some reason and I'm bored, I'll try to explain it the best I can.</p><p></p><p>1. Put the tranny in nuetral and set the parking brake. Unscrew the factory shift knob.</p><p></p><p>2. Get your fingers underneath the outside edges of the shift bezel (the plastic part on the outside, not the part where the shifter boot mates to the bezel) and pull firmly on it. It just snaps in, but don't get King Kong with it; just firmly pull it, but with care. Don't yank it out either because you'll need to disconnect the lighter. It simply disconnects. Put the shifter bezel aside.</p><p></p><p>3. Remove the factory shifter handle by removing the bolts that hold it in.</p><p></p><p>4. Next, remove the rubber boot with the plate around it by removing the 4 bolts at each corner. It'll take some wiggling to get it out of the hole the shifter sits in. Also be careful not to rip the rubber boot. You'll now see the stock shifter mechanism.</p><p></p><p>5. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the shifter on. These might take a little effort, so watch out for it coming loose all the sudden and skinning your knuckles on the surrounding sheet metal. You will not be reusing these 4 bolts.</p><p></p><p>6. Next, pull the stock shifter off. If it's a bit tough to get off, you can bolt the stock shifter handle back on for some extra leverage, but once again be careful of it flying off since sometimes there's a bit of tranny fluid on the bottom of the shifter that could get on your interior parts.</p><p></p><p>7. Clean all the RTV off the shifter mounting pad of the tranny. Razor blades work well and fine sand paper works too. You might want to stuff some paper towels or and old rag in the trans so none of the RTV falls into the tranny. Make sure the mounting pad is dry too.</p><p></p><p>8. MGW supplies CobraBob's silicone shifter gaskets and new bolts with the shifter. You have two options; you can either go the old fashion, tried and true way and use some high temp. blue RTV around the shifter mounting pad, going around the perimeter and around the bolt holes or you can use the supplied gasket. If you use the gasket, some red thread locker is recommended on the shifter bolts when you install them. The gasket cuts down on shifter/tranny noise a little bit and is reusable, if that's a concern for you. Make sure if you use the gasket though, that you get it on straight so it will seal completely.</p><p></p><p>9. Install the new MGW shifter (without the handle) with the MGW logo in the front and use the supplied bolts to bolt it down. I can't remember exact torque numbers for the bolts, but with the RTV make them snug. Again, don't get King Kong on them. The thread locker isn't needed when the RTV is used. If you decided to use the gasket, apply a dab of thread locker on each bolt and snug them down. Don't tighten them down too much though or you could cause the gasket to squeeze out and not seal properly. I prefer to tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern, like a 4 lug wheel, so it distributes evenly. I usually get them snug first, then go back again and tighten them down for the last time.</p><p></p><p>10. To set the stop screws, I put the shifter in first gear, then screwed in the front stop screw until it contacted the shifter, then I back off the screw 1 full turn, then put the car in third to make sure it went into gear fully for third, too. Once you're happy with the front stop screw, tighten down the lock screw on the top of the shifter base. These need to be tight, but don't break the allen wrench or anything over it. I used the same procedure for 2nd and 4th. I didn't need any mirrors or flash lights or anything to set them like some people have; maybe I'm just small and flexible. </p><p></p><p>11. Once you're happy with your set screws, you can put the rubber shift boot back on. You'll have to stretch it over the shifter in some areas, but it's no big deal. Then bolt it back down. </p><p></p><p>12. You can now install your shifte lever. There is a washer for the shifter that comes along with the spanner nut. The washer has little 'teeth' on it. This goes on the shaft first, under the shift lever. Then slide your lever of choice over the shaft. Next you install the spanner nut, but make sure none of the lock screws for it are sticking out underneath, preventing the nut from tightening all the way. Once you get the lever in a comfortable position for you, tighten the spanner nut down with the provided spanner wrench, holding the lever in place where you set it. You want this to be pretty tight so the lever doesn't rotate on the shaft on hard shifts. Once you do this you can tighten the lock screws. These need to be fairly tight also, like the shifter stop lock screws. </p><p></p><p>13. Next, double check everything to make sure it's tight and all that jazz. Then you can install the shifter bezel. Hook up the lighter connection, slide the rubber grommet over the shift knob shaft, then just pop it into place with your palms. </p><p></p><p>14. Install your shift knob. Then go rip through some gears with a nice test drive!</p><p></p><p>Hopefully that'll get you there. Haha. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.</p><p></p><p>-Blaise</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SublimeRT, post: 1752879, member: 9879"] I don't think I have the directions anymore. But since it's 9:10 AM and I haven't gone to sleep yet cause I'm not tired at all for some reason and I'm bored, I'll try to explain it the best I can. 1. Put the tranny in nuetral and set the parking brake. Unscrew the factory shift knob. 2. Get your fingers underneath the outside edges of the shift bezel (the plastic part on the outside, not the part where the shifter boot mates to the bezel) and pull firmly on it. It just snaps in, but don't get King Kong with it; just firmly pull it, but with care. Don't yank it out either because you'll need to disconnect the lighter. It simply disconnects. Put the shifter bezel aside. 3. Remove the factory shifter handle by removing the bolts that hold it in. 4. Next, remove the rubber boot with the plate around it by removing the 4 bolts at each corner. It'll take some wiggling to get it out of the hole the shifter sits in. Also be careful not to rip the rubber boot. You'll now see the stock shifter mechanism. 5. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the shifter on. These might take a little effort, so watch out for it coming loose all the sudden and skinning your knuckles on the surrounding sheet metal. You will not be reusing these 4 bolts. 6. Next, pull the stock shifter off. If it's a bit tough to get off, you can bolt the stock shifter handle back on for some extra leverage, but once again be careful of it flying off since sometimes there's a bit of tranny fluid on the bottom of the shifter that could get on your interior parts. 7. Clean all the RTV off the shifter mounting pad of the tranny. Razor blades work well and fine sand paper works too. You might want to stuff some paper towels or and old rag in the trans so none of the RTV falls into the tranny. Make sure the mounting pad is dry too. 8. MGW supplies CobraBob's silicone shifter gaskets and new bolts with the shifter. You have two options; you can either go the old fashion, tried and true way and use some high temp. blue RTV around the shifter mounting pad, going around the perimeter and around the bolt holes or you can use the supplied gasket. If you use the gasket, some red thread locker is recommended on the shifter bolts when you install them. The gasket cuts down on shifter/tranny noise a little bit and is reusable, if that's a concern for you. Make sure if you use the gasket though, that you get it on straight so it will seal completely. 9. Install the new MGW shifter (without the handle) with the MGW logo in the front and use the supplied bolts to bolt it down. I can't remember exact torque numbers for the bolts, but with the RTV make them snug. Again, don't get King Kong on them. The thread locker isn't needed when the RTV is used. If you decided to use the gasket, apply a dab of thread locker on each bolt and snug them down. Don't tighten them down too much though or you could cause the gasket to squeeze out and not seal properly. I prefer to tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern, like a 4 lug wheel, so it distributes evenly. I usually get them snug first, then go back again and tighten them down for the last time. 10. To set the stop screws, I put the shifter in first gear, then screwed in the front stop screw until it contacted the shifter, then I back off the screw 1 full turn, then put the car in third to make sure it went into gear fully for third, too. Once you're happy with the front stop screw, tighten down the lock screw on the top of the shifter base. These need to be tight, but don't break the allen wrench or anything over it. I used the same procedure for 2nd and 4th. I didn't need any mirrors or flash lights or anything to set them like some people have; maybe I'm just small and flexible. 11. Once you're happy with your set screws, you can put the rubber shift boot back on. You'll have to stretch it over the shifter in some areas, but it's no big deal. Then bolt it back down. 12. You can now install your shifte lever. There is a washer for the shifter that comes along with the spanner nut. The washer has little 'teeth' on it. This goes on the shaft first, under the shift lever. Then slide your lever of choice over the shaft. Next you install the spanner nut, but make sure none of the lock screws for it are sticking out underneath, preventing the nut from tightening all the way. Once you get the lever in a comfortable position for you, tighten the spanner nut down with the provided spanner wrench, holding the lever in place where you set it. You want this to be pretty tight so the lever doesn't rotate on the shaft on hard shifts. Once you do this you can tighten the lock screws. These need to be fairly tight also, like the shifter stop lock screws. 13. Next, double check everything to make sure it's tight and all that jazz. Then you can install the shifter bezel. Hook up the lighter connection, slide the rubber grommet over the shift knob shaft, then just pop it into place with your palms. 14. Install your shift knob. Then go rip through some gears with a nice test drive! Hopefully that'll get you there. Haha. Good luck and let us know how it turns out. -Blaise [/QUOTE]
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MGW Shifter for X-mas, NO DIRECTIONS!!! Help
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