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Mod Motor Cooling System
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<blockquote data-quote="SlowSVT" data-source="post: 14852902" data-attributes="member: 20202"><p>Thanks Troy, just want to pass on what I've learned.</p><p></p><p>At this point the coolant has passed thru the gasket and entered the cylinder heads. The are a few things that can be done to the head to improve cooling but your limited to where you can get access with a dremel. One vital area you can get access to is the small bend in the water jacket that cools between both exhaust ports which is the hottest section in the whole engine. Using a dremel preferably on a flex shaft with a small cutter radius the inside corner and attempt to open the water jacket leading between both exhaust ports only. Do not do any grinding on the other side leading to the outside of the exhaust ports, you want to cannel as much coolant between the ports only, the outside walls of the exhaust ports are fed by two large openings in the head on either side of the head bolt hole. <u>This is something I highly recommend if you have the patience and the time. You want to do everything you can to keep the exhaust side of the head cool</u>.</p><p></p><p>Here is the water jacket opening showing the area to be smoothed. It's kind of tight in there but more the reason to clean-up as much of the casting as possible. This head has some grinding already done but is not finished.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]642297[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]642298[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>Next on the list are the front water outlets. There was excess casting flash in the opening that can be smoothed. You can ground that little "step" till it's flush with the ID of the crossover. I'm not sure it's even needed but I left it there anyway.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]642299[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>I always polish the chamber and the exhaust port with one of the goals is to minimize heat absorption. I may ceramic coat the exhaust port, back side of the exhaust valve and the header flange. I don't not recommend ceramic coating the chamber or the piston crown I have personal experience with that and it's not good! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]642300[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]642301[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>As I mentioned I fabricated my own evenflow rear cooling taps. Of all the systems I've seen I think this system will shine when it comes to getting coolant out the rear of the head in a balanced manner. The crossover type cooling mod is the most practice way to tap the drivers side head but won't move a significant volume of coolant out of both heads. The drives side rear tap runs directly to the front crossover where it smoothly merges with the coolant exhausting out the front. The RH side is a little different. I still wanted it to connect to the heater core but that is quite a detour compared to the LH plus it has the coolant has to squeeze down to a 1/2" line compared to 3/4" on the LH outlet. The output of the heater core goes back up to 3/4" but will only flow as good as the 1/2" line plus the coolant needs to be pushed thru the heater core. To compensate I connected a smaller bypass tube to the RH cylinder head tap as shown in the photo below. This will make up for the loss of flow thru the heater core and help balance the system.</p><p></p><p>The factory restrictors in the heater core have been removed. If I remember correctly the input to the heater core is the 3/4" line and the output the 1/2". I reversed them 1/2" input/3/4" output which will reduce the pressure from removing the restrictors plus the bypass should prevent the heater core from bursting. Don't get this backwards you will have problems!</p><p></p><p>RH tap (this is a modified stock tap with a 3/4" nipple which will be cut off and replaced with a 1/2" tube to match the heater core input line. The bypass line is 1/2")</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]642302[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>LH (this originally was the LCD Chicago fitting I cut and rotated to exit along the valve cover which also allows access to the hose)</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]642303[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>Fitting including the Y that recombines the bypass with the heater core output that use to go back into the engine</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]642304[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>I smoothed the entry in both taps</p><p></p><p>On this one the factory tube extended into the tap which was ground flush</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]642305[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>The LH tube has a nice fat radii leading out to the hose</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]642306[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>I used 5052 aluminum tubing to connect it to the crossover. There is a lot of surface area between both tubes this help shed heat the second the coolant leaves the engine. It not nailed down is kinda just hanging there but I think you get the picture.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]642307[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]642308[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>Note how the coolant will "merge" with the main output.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]642309[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]642310[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>As you can see here I moved the LH output to line-up with the main output. Before the was blasting right into the RH output at a right angle which is one of the worst atrocity in the whole cooling circuits. Now everything merges smoothly. You can see the sight window I added to the fill tube which will give you an instant visual if your running low on anti-freeze and the port plug is extended high on the engine to aid purging the air out.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]642311[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>One thing I would caution about is tapping the rear coolant from the freezeout plug. This places the output further way from the exhaust ports and will push more of the cooler water out from the intake side of the head and not from the hotter exhaust side of the head.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]642312[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I am not a big fan of the AN lines marketed to replace the crossover. Anything smaller then what came from the factory should be shunned as all that will do is increase the velocity of the coolant resulting in higher internal pressure, turbulence where you don't need it, lower pump output and increase cavitation. </p><p></p><p>Another option is to adapt a late model GT500 crossover the thing is HUGE! ............ and expensive.</p><p></p><p>Up till now none of this has done a damn thing about remove any heat from the engine. All this has done so far is to increase the volume of coolant circulating thru the engine, direct additional coolant where it's needed and help balanced both sides of the engine. Keep in mind each one of these mods stands on there own, some of them are not practical for some people to undertake or it's just something to consider for a future build. I do admit I'm a bit overkill with regard to cooling systems but it's a lot of fun evaluating all this stuff and seeing where one can do better. I have the same approach with every engine I have built which from my experience has served me well.</p><p></p><p>We'll move downstream from the engine on the next post.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SlowSVT, post: 14852902, member: 20202"] Thanks Troy, just want to pass on what I've learned. At this point the coolant has passed thru the gasket and entered the cylinder heads. The are a few things that can be done to the head to improve cooling but your limited to where you can get access with a dremel. One vital area you can get access to is the small bend in the water jacket that cools between both exhaust ports which is the hottest section in the whole engine. Using a dremel preferably on a flex shaft with a small cutter radius the inside corner and attempt to open the water jacket leading between both exhaust ports only. Do not do any grinding on the other side leading to the outside of the exhaust ports, you want to cannel as much coolant between the ports only, the outside walls of the exhaust ports are fed by two large openings in the head on either side of the head bolt hole. [U]This is something I highly recommend if you have the patience and the time. You want to do everything you can to keep the exhaust side of the head cool[/U]. Here is the water jacket opening showing the area to be smoothed. It's kind of tight in there but more the reason to clean-up as much of the casting as possible. This head has some grinding already done but is not finished. [ATTACH=full]642297[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]642298[/ATTACH] Next on the list are the front water outlets. There was excess casting flash in the opening that can be smoothed. You can ground that little "step" till it's flush with the ID of the crossover. I'm not sure it's even needed but I left it there anyway. [ATTACH=full]642299[/ATTACH] I always polish the chamber and the exhaust port with one of the goals is to minimize heat absorption. I may ceramic coat the exhaust port, back side of the exhaust valve and the header flange. I don't not recommend ceramic coating the chamber or the piston crown I have personal experience with that and it's not good! :( [ATTACH=full]642300[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]642301[/ATTACH] As I mentioned I fabricated my own evenflow rear cooling taps. Of all the systems I've seen I think this system will shine when it comes to getting coolant out the rear of the head in a balanced manner. The crossover type cooling mod is the most practice way to tap the drivers side head but won't move a significant volume of coolant out of both heads. The drives side rear tap runs directly to the front crossover where it smoothly merges with the coolant exhausting out the front. The RH side is a little different. I still wanted it to connect to the heater core but that is quite a detour compared to the LH plus it has the coolant has to squeeze down to a 1/2" line compared to 3/4" on the LH outlet. The output of the heater core goes back up to 3/4" but will only flow as good as the 1/2" line plus the coolant needs to be pushed thru the heater core. To compensate I connected a smaller bypass tube to the RH cylinder head tap as shown in the photo below. This will make up for the loss of flow thru the heater core and help balance the system. The factory restrictors in the heater core have been removed. If I remember correctly the input to the heater core is the 3/4" line and the output the 1/2". I reversed them 1/2" input/3/4" output which will reduce the pressure from removing the restrictors plus the bypass should prevent the heater core from bursting. Don't get this backwards you will have problems! RH tap (this is a modified stock tap with a 3/4" nipple which will be cut off and replaced with a 1/2" tube to match the heater core input line. The bypass line is 1/2") [ATTACH=full]642302[/ATTACH] LH (this originally was the LCD Chicago fitting I cut and rotated to exit along the valve cover which also allows access to the hose) [ATTACH=full]642303[/ATTACH] Fitting including the Y that recombines the bypass with the heater core output that use to go back into the engine [ATTACH=full]642304[/ATTACH] I smoothed the entry in both taps On this one the factory tube extended into the tap which was ground flush [ATTACH=full]642305[/ATTACH] The LH tube has a nice fat radii leading out to the hose [ATTACH=full]642306[/ATTACH] I used 5052 aluminum tubing to connect it to the crossover. There is a lot of surface area between both tubes this help shed heat the second the coolant leaves the engine. It not nailed down is kinda just hanging there but I think you get the picture. [ATTACH=full]642307[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]642308[/ATTACH] Note how the coolant will "merge" with the main output. [ATTACH=full]642309[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]642310[/ATTACH] As you can see here I moved the LH output to line-up with the main output. Before the was blasting right into the RH output at a right angle which is one of the worst atrocity in the whole cooling circuits. Now everything merges smoothly. You can see the sight window I added to the fill tube which will give you an instant visual if your running low on anti-freeze and the port plug is extended high on the engine to aid purging the air out. [ATTACH=full]642311[/ATTACH] One thing I would caution about is tapping the rear coolant from the freezeout plug. This places the output further way from the exhaust ports and will push more of the cooler water out from the intake side of the head and not from the hotter exhaust side of the head. [ATTACH=full]642312[/ATTACH] I am not a big fan of the AN lines marketed to replace the crossover. Anything smaller then what came from the factory should be shunned as all that will do is increase the velocity of the coolant resulting in higher internal pressure, turbulence where you don't need it, lower pump output and increase cavitation. Another option is to adapt a late model GT500 crossover the thing is HUGE! ............ and expensive. Up till now none of this has done a damn thing about remove any heat from the engine. All this has done so far is to increase the volume of coolant circulating thru the engine, direct additional coolant where it's needed and help balanced both sides of the engine. Keep in mind each one of these mods stands on there own, some of them are not practical for some people to undertake or it's just something to consider for a future build. I do admit I'm a bit overkill with regard to cooling systems but it's a lot of fun evaluating all this stuff and seeing where one can do better. I have the same approach with every engine I have built which from my experience has served me well. We'll move downstream from the engine on the next post. [/QUOTE]
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