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<blockquote data-quote="SlowSVT" data-source="post: 14865983" data-attributes="member: 20202"><p>Haven't posted in a while have been busy with other things but set aside some time to discuss oil cooling options.</p><p></p><p>Oil is really a crappy heat conductor compared to water. Most oil cooling systems are there to protect the oil first and to cool the engine a distant 2nd. Once you start to get close to 250 degrees the properties of the oil start to break down. The factory oil-to-water cooler gets first dibs on the cooler radiator output before moving on to cool the engine. Not only that but the internal copper HE will add another restriction for the water pump to overcome. I'm not a big fan of this system. There are 4 HE's already handing off the front clip adding one more would make a tight situation even worse. The factory cooler is a easy solution to the problem from a production car perspective but not so much from a performance standpoint.</p><p></p><p>My philosophy with regard to hot engine fluids is to get them out of the motor ASAP as nothing cools as long as it's inside the engine. A remote oil filter and oil-to-air cooler is the logical choice. Not only will it cool the oil better but it will get the motor out of the oil cooling business which will do a better job of shedding engine heat. As you can see in the photos in my other post I have an FRPP water/oil adapter which is a very nice piece (the MMR unit looks pretty good as well). The FRPP plate is tapped for AN10 lines. I would resist going any higher as larger AN12 lines add a lot more volume to the system when you consider how much you'll need to plumb the system. Any oil drainback will require the pump to flood the lines are oil galleries delaying lubrication to the bearings. AN10 lines will speed oil to the bearing faster and takes bends easier. <u>The line routing require a lot of thought</u>. I have mine figured out with minimal bends but it took more than a few evenings. Unfortunately I can't show you the system as my car is at the body shop getting painted. </p><p></p><p>Peterson fluid systems <a href="http://petersonfluidsys.com/filter_mount.html" target="_blank">http://petersonfluidsys.com/filter_mount.html</a> has a neat built-in primer pump in their remote filter adapter. This is a nice feature if the car sits for an extended period of time, you just put a cordless drill to it to drive the pump. The problem with this system is the port location is not very flexible and might make hose routing very cumbersome and inefficient. <u>Figure out your line routing before buying and remote oil cooling hardware</u>. This system won't work with my set-up but I'm not loosing sleep over it either.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/Images/filter_primer_large_34.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>A while ago I picked up a Fram HPK6000 remote racing filter adapter which is no longer available. This thing tapped to accept lines as large as AN12, can be routed from either side, as an internal inspection screen, tapped holes for sensors, lots of cooling surface area, huge ports and a 2 quart high burst rate racing oil filter. The oil starts to cool the second it enters this housing.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]643589[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]643590[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]643591[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Always look for a remote filter adapter with large passages with a minimal of sharp bends and right angles. Each new restriction reduces the oil pressure at the end of the system. I've seen quite a few adapters on the market I find horrid and consist of a block of aluminum with 2 tapped holes on either side with a filter hung blow it :xpel:</p><p></p><p>Use mandrel bent AN tube fitting as shown above wherever you need a bend, no not use right angle fitting anywhere in the system! One trick you can do is get filter housing, thermostat and cooler tapped for AN12. This allows for fat AN12 mandrel bent fitting which will lower the restriction as the oil rushes into the housing. Then you use an AN12-to-AN10 adapter to plumb the system. Just make sure everything fits as the adapter add length to the fitting installation. </p><p></p><p>Next comes the thermostat. Some people consider this as "optional". For a pure racecar I would agree, a thermostat will introduce additional restriction in the system for an engine that doesn't get heat cycles very often. On a street car I would highly recommend them especially if you live in a cooler climate. Cold engines wear very quickly which is why it's important to warm your engine before leaning hard on the pedal. On a cold day your oil will struggle to get warm getting routed thru a cooler with freezing cold air blowing thru it.</p><p></p><p>I liked the Mocal thermostat <a href="http://www.mocal.co.uk/products.html#hermostats" target="_blank">http://www.mocal.co.uk/products.html#hermostats</a> . It's an "H" shaped housing. When it's closed the oil crosses over to housing and exits out the other side. When it's open the oil passes straight thru and back on the other side with almost "zero" restrictions. I actually put a grinder to all the sharp edges machined into the housing and blended in all the passageways.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]643592[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Regarding the oil cooler and placement. Most people mount it in front of the radiator and call it a day.........<em>It's convenient"</em> In that case chances are you are not much better off than when you had the oil-to-water cooler you are just dumping hot air over the rad and restricting the air having another cooler in front of it. </p><p></p><p>I've elected to place it in the LH brake cooling duct. This is an ideal location, close to the remote filter, it's wide open to incoming air and it looks like it belongs there (the other duct is my cold air induction <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> )</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]643593[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>For a road racer this would be better served as a brake cooling duct. On the street an oil cooler would be of more benefit to the car. Best to expose as much of the cooler face to the oncoming air. I've seen guys just place it in the fender well space behind the driving light/brake cooling duct bezel with just the brake tube opening feeding the cooler and with "0" ducting or seals. That set-up renders the cooler about 10% effective as what little area a 3" hole has and all the space surrounding the cooler chances are only a trickle of air with pass thru the core :nonono".</p><p></p><p>I got a sheet of Kydex sheet plastic. It black, you can fold it on a bend brake and is pretty durable and made an air duct that starts just behind the bumper cover opening with the cooler 4-5 inches recessed then extending to just in front of the wheel well cover curving downward exiting the vehicle. The cooler is housed in a very smooth tunnel and is sealed all around the cooler with near 0 leakage. Keep in mind how the air exits the cooler is equally important as how it enters it. If it's choked on the exhaust side means the air in front won't enter the duct and will go someplace else. Race teams spend considerable effort in designing air intakes and duct work. The more efficient the duct is the more effective what's using it is.</p><p></p><p>The cooler is rubber mounted to the underside of the bumper support. The plan is to support it on a hinged type mount with a spring type lower brace in the event something whacks the LH corner of the bumper it may save the cooler from bursting open in a mishap. VERY IMPORTANT TO ALWAYS RUBBER MOUNT THE OIL COOLER! and support it at both sides. They are dip brazed thin sheet metal construction and can get rather heavy filled with oil. Vibration and shock loads from a hard mounted oil cooler can fatigue and fracture over time. <u>In that location suddenly dumping oil on your front tire is not advisable</u>. Install the cooler with the lines exiting out the top. If you install them facing downward the fittings will have 4" of air between that and the pavement which will be very vulnerable getting sheered off. Make sure the installation is well thought out and built soundly. Do it right and you will never have to bother with it.</p><p></p><p>I would recommend some sort of screen for rock and pebble resistance. Do not use fine screen or tight mesh of any kind. The best design system can be rendered mediocre even using expanded mech. What you want is maximum "open area" when you approach 85-90% your doing pretty good. All that's needed is to deflect and slow objects that are big enough to pass thru the grillwork. I find that 1/2" round wire square mesh is the best. You can get welded galvanized wire mesh at most local hardware stores which can be powder coated black (paint will chip like hell).</p><p></p><p>I can't think of any other way to incorporate an external oil cooler in a Terminator where it will be as effective. It's a lot of work and may not be for everybody. For someone with a real serious car it's well advised. Heat is your engines mortal enemy you can never have enough cooling capacity.</p><p></p><p>I'll touch on passive cooling next</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SlowSVT, post: 14865983, member: 20202"] Haven't posted in a while have been busy with other things but set aside some time to discuss oil cooling options. Oil is really a crappy heat conductor compared to water. Most oil cooling systems are there to protect the oil first and to cool the engine a distant 2nd. Once you start to get close to 250 degrees the properties of the oil start to break down. The factory oil-to-water cooler gets first dibs on the cooler radiator output before moving on to cool the engine. Not only that but the internal copper HE will add another restriction for the water pump to overcome. I'm not a big fan of this system. There are 4 HE's already handing off the front clip adding one more would make a tight situation even worse. The factory cooler is a easy solution to the problem from a production car perspective but not so much from a performance standpoint. My philosophy with regard to hot engine fluids is to get them out of the motor ASAP as nothing cools as long as it's inside the engine. A remote oil filter and oil-to-air cooler is the logical choice. Not only will it cool the oil better but it will get the motor out of the oil cooling business which will do a better job of shedding engine heat. As you can see in the photos in my other post I have an FRPP water/oil adapter which is a very nice piece (the MMR unit looks pretty good as well). The FRPP plate is tapped for AN10 lines. I would resist going any higher as larger AN12 lines add a lot more volume to the system when you consider how much you'll need to plumb the system. Any oil drainback will require the pump to flood the lines are oil galleries delaying lubrication to the bearings. AN10 lines will speed oil to the bearing faster and takes bends easier. [U]The line routing require a lot of thought[/U]. I have mine figured out with minimal bends but it took more than a few evenings. Unfortunately I can't show you the system as my car is at the body shop getting painted. Peterson fluid systems [url]http://petersonfluidsys.com/filter_mount.html[/url] has a neat built-in primer pump in their remote filter adapter. This is a nice feature if the car sits for an extended period of time, you just put a cordless drill to it to drive the pump. The problem with this system is the port location is not very flexible and might make hose routing very cumbersome and inefficient. [U]Figure out your line routing before buying and remote oil cooling hardware[/U]. This system won't work with my set-up but I'm not loosing sleep over it either. [img]http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/Images/filter_primer_large_34.jpg[/img] A while ago I picked up a Fram HPK6000 remote racing filter adapter which is no longer available. This thing tapped to accept lines as large as AN12, can be routed from either side, as an internal inspection screen, tapped holes for sensors, lots of cooling surface area, huge ports and a 2 quart high burst rate racing oil filter. The oil starts to cool the second it enters this housing. [ATTACH=full]643589[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]643590[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]643591[/ATTACH] Always look for a remote filter adapter with large passages with a minimal of sharp bends and right angles. Each new restriction reduces the oil pressure at the end of the system. I've seen quite a few adapters on the market I find horrid and consist of a block of aluminum with 2 tapped holes on either side with a filter hung blow it :xpel: Use mandrel bent AN tube fitting as shown above wherever you need a bend, no not use right angle fitting anywhere in the system! One trick you can do is get filter housing, thermostat and cooler tapped for AN12. This allows for fat AN12 mandrel bent fitting which will lower the restriction as the oil rushes into the housing. Then you use an AN12-to-AN10 adapter to plumb the system. Just make sure everything fits as the adapter add length to the fitting installation. Next comes the thermostat. Some people consider this as "optional". For a pure racecar I would agree, a thermostat will introduce additional restriction in the system for an engine that doesn't get heat cycles very often. On a street car I would highly recommend them especially if you live in a cooler climate. Cold engines wear very quickly which is why it's important to warm your engine before leaning hard on the pedal. On a cold day your oil will struggle to get warm getting routed thru a cooler with freezing cold air blowing thru it. I liked the Mocal thermostat [url]http://www.mocal.co.uk/products.html#hermostats[/url] . It's an "H" shaped housing. When it's closed the oil crosses over to housing and exits out the other side. When it's open the oil passes straight thru and back on the other side with almost "zero" restrictions. I actually put a grinder to all the sharp edges machined into the housing and blended in all the passageways. [ATTACH=full]643592[/ATTACH] Regarding the oil cooler and placement. Most people mount it in front of the radiator and call it a day.........[I]It's convenient"[/I] In that case chances are you are not much better off than when you had the oil-to-water cooler you are just dumping hot air over the rad and restricting the air having another cooler in front of it. I've elected to place it in the LH brake cooling duct. This is an ideal location, close to the remote filter, it's wide open to incoming air and it looks like it belongs there (the other duct is my cold air induction :) ) [ATTACH=full]643593[/ATTACH] For a road racer this would be better served as a brake cooling duct. On the street an oil cooler would be of more benefit to the car. Best to expose as much of the cooler face to the oncoming air. I've seen guys just place it in the fender well space behind the driving light/brake cooling duct bezel with just the brake tube opening feeding the cooler and with "0" ducting or seals. That set-up renders the cooler about 10% effective as what little area a 3" hole has and all the space surrounding the cooler chances are only a trickle of air with pass thru the core :nonono". I got a sheet of Kydex sheet plastic. It black, you can fold it on a bend brake and is pretty durable and made an air duct that starts just behind the bumper cover opening with the cooler 4-5 inches recessed then extending to just in front of the wheel well cover curving downward exiting the vehicle. The cooler is housed in a very smooth tunnel and is sealed all around the cooler with near 0 leakage. Keep in mind how the air exits the cooler is equally important as how it enters it. If it's choked on the exhaust side means the air in front won't enter the duct and will go someplace else. Race teams spend considerable effort in designing air intakes and duct work. The more efficient the duct is the more effective what's using it is. The cooler is rubber mounted to the underside of the bumper support. The plan is to support it on a hinged type mount with a spring type lower brace in the event something whacks the LH corner of the bumper it may save the cooler from bursting open in a mishap. VERY IMPORTANT TO ALWAYS RUBBER MOUNT THE OIL COOLER! and support it at both sides. They are dip brazed thin sheet metal construction and can get rather heavy filled with oil. Vibration and shock loads from a hard mounted oil cooler can fatigue and fracture over time. [U]In that location suddenly dumping oil on your front tire is not advisable[/U]. Install the cooler with the lines exiting out the top. If you install them facing downward the fittings will have 4" of air between that and the pavement which will be very vulnerable getting sheered off. Make sure the installation is well thought out and built soundly. Do it right and you will never have to bother with it. I would recommend some sort of screen for rock and pebble resistance. Do not use fine screen or tight mesh of any kind. The best design system can be rendered mediocre even using expanded mech. What you want is maximum "open area" when you approach 85-90% your doing pretty good. All that's needed is to deflect and slow objects that are big enough to pass thru the grillwork. I find that 1/2" round wire square mesh is the best. You can get welded galvanized wire mesh at most local hardware stores which can be powder coated black (paint will chip like hell). I can't think of any other way to incorporate an external oil cooler in a Terminator where it will be as effective. It's a lot of work and may not be for everybody. For someone with a real serious car it's well advised. Heat is your engines mortal enemy you can never have enough cooling capacity. I'll touch on passive cooling next [/QUOTE]
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