Motor went swimming

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Cody4V

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jony51999 said:
I'm about to rebuild my first mod motor. Back in the day I had a small biz building cars and engines for guys...lots of strokers, nitrous, fogger and vortech's from low boost to full tilt cog drive t-trims.

I've been researching and learning these mod motors and I'll say this, if you want to rebuild yourself it's not impossible but you will certainly need a good machine shop that knows their stuff and these engines in particular.

The iron block is more forgiving when it comes to a lot of things but you still need to make sure that everything is measured and in spec. That said, I would expect that a full tear down and reassembly with minimal machine work would be sufficient, depending of course on what the condition was prior to flood.

Bottom line is, either change oil and run it to see how it goes or pull it apart and plan on having heads checked with a valve job and possible guides plus at a minimum a hone job and new rings/bearings.



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Thank you for the info. That's why I'm on here to find people who know what they are doing. I've never gone into a mod motor. Always ended up with a stang that had good motors and did alot of bolt ons and full chassis upgrades (upr). I'm a certified Yamaha Tech(which I don't even use anymore). I'm on of those guys if I take it apart I can put it back together- sometimes with a lil help.lol. I'm just seeing if what I thought was the right course of action is on this same lines as most of yall. I'm no stranger to sank 4-wheelers or sxs and I figured it's the same concept just on a bigger scale. I'm sure I'll be in touch with you for advise if you don't mind.

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Cody4V

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Coosawjack said:
Salt water??o_O
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Well....no it was dirty river water which more than like had sand along with mud. The only good thing is that these motor are aluminum and it won't rust enough to seize a motor up. Luckily I work for a pipe fabrication shop in which we also on a machine shop across the street so simple machining (milling heads,honing block) will be done there. Extensive work will be done in Houston.

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BLU7710

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I have done several 3.8 5.0 and 4.6 engines that have been in flood Baton Rouge 2016 and Harvey 2017. The engine that is still in car. Cover the t-body
*Psi wash the engine bay.
*Remove the fuel lines at intake, trip the inertia switch or unplug the fuel pump connector.
*Drain the oil.
*Remove blower/intake
*Remove the spark plugs.
*Remove vlv covers.
*Vac or blowout as much water & oil from intake, heads and spark plug holes. Spray all exposed internal engine with pb blaster.
*Turn engine by hand
If it doesn't turn. Spray pb blaster in the spark plug holes. Let it sit a while.
*Blow out all the removed electrical connections.
*Clean MAF & T-body.
*Loosen H pipe and muffler connection.
After it can turn by hand keep turning to evacuate- the water in the cylinders.
*Get it to bump enginewith starter. Watch for "Theft" light fast or normal flash.
Fast flash- your on a journey now checking fuses, relays, cluster, controllers.
* Reassemble, new oil and filter, clean or new plugs.
Start and run 10 mins.
Drain oil replace filter again.
This has worked except one flood engine.



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01yellercobra

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Cody4V said:
Well....no it was dirty river water which more than like had sand along with mud. The only good thing is that these motor are aluminum and it won't rust enough to seize a motor up. Luckily I work for a pipe fabrication shop in which we also on a machine shop across the street so simple machining (milling heads,honing block) will be done there. Extensive work will be done in Houston.

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The stock engines in these cars have iron blocks. But even the aluminum blocks have iron sleeves. So either one can rust up and seize.

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Cody4V

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BLU7710 said:
I have done several 3.8 5.0 and 4.6 engines that have been in flood Baton Rouge 2016 and Harvey 2017. The engine that is still in car. Cover the t-body
*Psi wash the engine bay.
*Remove the fuel lines at intake, trip the inertia switch or unplug the fuel pump connector.
*Drain the oil.
*Remove blower/intake
*Remove the spark plugs.
*Remove vlv covers.
*Vac or blowout as much water & oil from intake, heads and spark plug holes. Spray all exposed internal engine with pb blaster.
*Turn engine by hand
If it doesn't turn. Spray pb blaster in the spark plug holes. Let it sit a while.
*Blow out all the removed electrical connections.
*Clean MAF & T-body.
*Loosen H pipe and muffler connection.
After it can turn by hand keep turning to evacuate- the water in the cylinders.
*Get it to bump enginewith starter. Watch for "Theft" light fast or normal flash.
Fast flash- your on a journey now checking fuses, relays, cluster, controllers.
* Reassemble, new oil and filter, clean or new plugs.
Start and run 10 mins.
Drain oil replace filter again.
This has worked except one flood engine.



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Damn, that's a wealth of knowledge. Thank you. Only bad thing is the motor I purchased was on the floor of the shop along with the heads and supercharger. The car and motor in the pic was rolled then flooded. It is also for sale. I'll be getting a list of parts and prices from him this week on what he has and what was damaged and what wasnt.

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BLU7710

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Engine on the floor was in flood also? Reguardless get it on engine stand. Drain oil, remove plugs spray in Pb blaster. If it turns by hand put in table spoon motor oil. Quick blast of compressed air, so coats the cylinder walls. If it does NOT turn remove oil pan and remove 2,3,4 main caps do this one at a time. Inspect and brake clean. White grease the crank journal Reassemble. Try to turn. After each one. Then do 1 and 5. Then do the rods. You'll find which are seized. Keep the journals and bearings clean and lubed. This will at least get the crank turning and lubed a months until you can rebuild it.

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Cody4V

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BLU7710 said:
Engine on the floor was in flood also? Reguardless get it on engine stand. Drain oil, remove plugs spray in Pb blaster. If it turns by hand put in table spoon motor oil. Quick blast of compressed air, so coats the cylinder walls. If it does NOT turn remove oil pan and remove 2,3,4 main caps do this one at a time. Inspect and brake clean. White grease the crank journal Reassemble. Try to turn. After each one. Then do 1 and 5. Then do the rods. You'll find which are seized. Keep the journals and bearings clean and lubed. This will at least get the crank turning and lubed a months until you can rebuild it.

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That's the kind of info that is helpful right there.Ty.

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SID297

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Anything iron is likely trashed, the gears in that KB included. IMO, there's some decent parts to salvage but not much.
 
Four Door SVT

Four Door SVT

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The engine is out of the car, it makes “0” sense to not disassemble and replace bearings and polish bearing surfaces at minimum. Same for cam journals and cams. The block can be cleaned and honed as well. It should not cost 5k unless you replace rods, crank and pistons. The piston pins could also been effected but hopefully it got air locked and the water didn’t fill the block.
 
jony51999

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Cody4V said:
Well....no it was dirty river water which more than like had sand along with mud. The only good thing is that these motor are aluminum and it won't rust enough to seize a motor up. Luckily I work for a pipe fabrication shop in which we also on a machine shop across the street so simple machining (milling heads,honing block) will be done there. Extensive work will be done in Houston.

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Hey Cody, from what I've learned with regards to rebuilding these motors even the hone job is pretty involved to do it right. To do it properly you really need to use a torque plate and even head gasket that you plan to run (the old ones should suffice and you can use the old tty head bolts for that as well since you cannot reuse them when you do your final reassembly.

Also remember that these engines use a 4032 high silicon forged piston so the piston to bore clearance is much tighter (typically around .001) than a typical 2618 forged piston.

I'm planning on upgrading to 2618 pistons when I rebuild mine which will give me a stronger piston that can handle more abuse (albeit at the cost of being a little noisey when cold as the piston drops out of the bore at bdc which means the largest diameter portion of the piston is out of the bore so you get a bit of piston slap noise until it's fully warmed and expanded to operating size). That said another benefit of using the 2618 alloy is that you will still be able to use a std bore piston without being concerned that your piston to bore clearance will be too big due to the material removed when honing as the 2618 needs around .003-.0035 ptb.

That of course is assuming there is no serious scoring that would necessitate a bore and oversized piston to fix it.


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Cody4V

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Yea that's pretty snug. The bottom end has already been built. It's not stock by anymeans. I don't know the exact specs bc the paperwork was lost in the flood bit the guy who built it was a friend of mine who never spared any expense. Trying to contact him to find our what was done to it.

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