Here are a few other pics I took while I had the camera out.
My 2002 GT Build Thread (over three years and still going)
- Thread starter bobby_0081
- Start date
That is awesome man gad you got it all doneepper:
Me too. How does it look?
Thanks.
Nice work and impressive 2v numbers. Now that you have a new driveshaft, you can remove the dog bone off the diff to drop about 8-10 pounds
Love 2v builds!! Can't wait for what's next. What rear gear you running with the 6sp mag? What are u taching at 70mph?
Awesome. 350 rwhp NA out of 2V is fantastic. Great job.
3.55 gears and it tachs 1700 at 70. Next will be a new posi unit or a rebuild for the old one and some 3.73 gears. It seems to be doing the "one wheel peel" lately.
Thank you.
That's nice to be below 2k at 70+ for mpg, wonder what you would be at with 410s?? I'm right at 2k at 60 with 410s and stock 3650. Mines a dd hence all the questions..thanks!
Well I went to the 1/4 mile strip last Friday night and could only run the 1/8th because of weather. I ended up with only a few passes.
First one was bad and over 10 seconds because it just sat and spun. I guess my posi unit is going out and will require a rebuild. My second run ended up 8.85 @ 84.40 mph with a 2.19 60 ft and my third run was 8.83 @83.85 mph with a 2.20 60 ft time. I am running Continental street tires and having the above mentioned traction lock issues. I am going to rebuild the traction lock and get some better tires and give it another shot and hopefully when I do I will be able to run the 1/4.
First one was bad and over 10 seconds because it just sat and spun. I guess my posi unit is going out and will require a rebuild. My second run ended up 8.85 @ 84.40 mph with a 2.19 60 ft and my third run was 8.83 @83.85 mph with a 2.20 60 ft time. I am running Continental street tires and having the above mentioned traction lock issues. I am going to rebuild the traction lock and get some better tires and give it another shot and hopefully when I do I will be able to run the 1/4.
I drive mine daily too. I average 12-15K miles a year.
gogone3
New Member
i love your dyno, im looking for one just like this on my mustang. did you opt for the 170 or 185 trick flow heads? what size headers?
185 and here's a link to the exact ones I have. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-51910001-m38
The headers are BBK Long tube ceramic coated headers 1 5/8" primaries and 2 1/2" collectors. Here is a link to them too http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BBK-15410
Has anyone here ever seen or heard of a car acting like mine has been lately?
I have a pretty stout 2002 Mustang GT. A few months ago while sitting in heavy interstate traffic, a lot of stop and go because of an overturned truck in the road, it started running really bad. It wouldn't hardly idle and it would spit and sputter and if you really gassed it then it would run great for a few moments only to start back running poorly again. I dealt with this for a day or two and then decided to try and reload the tune in to the PCM and it seemed to do the trick and the car ran better for the last two months. Then yesterday I let it sit and idling and it started doing it again. The Air Fuel ratio gauge will show that it is running really lean and if you blip the throttle a few times it will usually straighten out. It almost acts like a carbureted car that is running too rich. I redid all the grounds the last time this happened and checked all my connections and replaced both front O2 sensors. It has stock Motorcraft plugs, Accel coils, TFS heads, TFS cams, Bullitt Intake, Twin 65mm TB, BBK MAF sensor, a new TPS when I changed the Throttle body, and a JLT cold air (under hood type). The air filter is clean, the PCM has no codes, and the car itself has 230K miles on the body. I don't know what type of fuel pump is in the car or if it is stock or a cheap OEM replacement because I bought the car with 145K miles on it and it was bone stock and even the air box silencer and a paper filter in the air box. The fuel filter is also fairly new and is a Motorcraft filter. It seems like it has a vacuum leak but the last time this happened it checked the manifold for leaks with some carb cleaner and nothing appeared to be wrong. The EGR is also deleted and turned off in the PCM along with the rear O2 sensors.
My guess is either the fuel pump screen in the tank is getting clogged up or the pump is going to go out eventually or maybe my PCM is dying.
If I buy a new pump which pump should I buy since I am at 353 RWHP and 344 RWTQ. For all the stuff I have heard about the stock ones mine hasn't held me back as far as I know and my tuner said it was enough pump when he last dyno tuned the car last fall.
I have seen the BBK pumps but I am unsure if I need that much pump and whether or not I will need to have it tuned again if I go with a higher flow rate pump.
Lastly the car runs great going down the road and it will just start running like crap when you let it idle. It doesn't even happen every time I let it idle it has just happened enough that I thought I would throw it out here to see what replies I get.
I have a pretty stout 2002 Mustang GT. A few months ago while sitting in heavy interstate traffic, a lot of stop and go because of an overturned truck in the road, it started running really bad. It wouldn't hardly idle and it would spit and sputter and if you really gassed it then it would run great for a few moments only to start back running poorly again. I dealt with this for a day or two and then decided to try and reload the tune in to the PCM and it seemed to do the trick and the car ran better for the last two months. Then yesterday I let it sit and idling and it started doing it again. The Air Fuel ratio gauge will show that it is running really lean and if you blip the throttle a few times it will usually straighten out. It almost acts like a carbureted car that is running too rich. I redid all the grounds the last time this happened and checked all my connections and replaced both front O2 sensors. It has stock Motorcraft plugs, Accel coils, TFS heads, TFS cams, Bullitt Intake, Twin 65mm TB, BBK MAF sensor, a new TPS when I changed the Throttle body, and a JLT cold air (under hood type). The air filter is clean, the PCM has no codes, and the car itself has 230K miles on the body. I don't know what type of fuel pump is in the car or if it is stock or a cheap OEM replacement because I bought the car with 145K miles on it and it was bone stock and even the air box silencer and a paper filter in the air box. The fuel filter is also fairly new and is a Motorcraft filter. It seems like it has a vacuum leak but the last time this happened it checked the manifold for leaks with some carb cleaner and nothing appeared to be wrong. The EGR is also deleted and turned off in the PCM along with the rear O2 sensors.
My guess is either the fuel pump screen in the tank is getting clogged up or the pump is going to go out eventually or maybe my PCM is dying.
If I buy a new pump which pump should I buy since I am at 353 RWHP and 344 RWTQ. For all the stuff I have heard about the stock ones mine hasn't held me back as far as I know and my tuner said it was enough pump when he last dyno tuned the car last fall.
I have seen the BBK pumps but I am unsure if I need that much pump and whether or not I will need to have it tuned again if I go with a higher flow rate pump.
Lastly the car runs great going down the road and it will just start running like crap when you let it idle. It doesn't even happen every time I let it idle it has just happened enough that I thought I would throw it out here to see what replies I get.
bob by_ 0081 ;14395045pSo after nearly a year of no mods and just driving the car back and forth to work and my stock T56 not wanting to stay in reverse said:24092[/ATTACH]View attachment 24093
Well within 10 miles the rear seal came out of the brand new trans. I got a new seal from Tremec and it was metal and stayed in but leaked as you can see from the photo below.
View attachment 24094
I got tired of the constant leak coming from my 3K dollar trans and called the guys at American Powertrain and they hooked me up with the part number for an SKF seal from NAPA and also a new custom made driveshaft that I got two days after I ordered it. That's good service.
View attachment 24095
No more leaks! I don't know if it was the wrong yoke, out of balance, or what, but the driveshaft fixed it. No more smoke when I stop at a red light.
Hey nice build there I also put together a 01 gt with a 2v 323 strocker bigbore boss block trickflow heads stage 2 blower cams n 2.6 kB 14psi 600hp , last yr n was woundering if u had any install problems with the t56 mag besides the yoke leakage did u hav to do some grinding anywhere or around the shift fork? I read the cobra hav to do some grinding around there Any tips on the install?, i just ordered one from D&D hole kit with drive shaft n tranny bracket. thanks ahead I appreciate any help just trying to be more prepared before I start the install.
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