My brakes are toast...

[Juiced-03]

Well my pads have finally reached the end at 23,000 miles LOL. My friend and are going to try the pad swap ourselves. I have never done brakes before but he is pretty confident in doing mine since he has done several cars. Is there anything I need to know before beginning? Any special tools or anything that makes these brakes different from any other car? Should I have my rotors turned or is that optional? I am not sure which pad I will go with yet. I will probably do some searches on here and see what is the best. I want something that has better stopping power over stock with no noise and little dust. Anyone have trouble swapping the pads themselves?

Thanks!

Bryan

 

[Dana]

I can help with a few of the topics.

First, you need a special tool for the rear calipers. It is used to push the pistons back into the caliper housing. It pushes and turns at the same time. These pistons can not just be pushed back in. Don't know if it is needed on the fronts, haven't done them yet.
I would always get the rotors turned. It is cheap insurance against a pedal pulsation and aids in seating the pads.

Material selection is up to you, but I think there are always trade-offs to be made. I don't think you will get increased stopping power without some additional brake dust.
I have heard of some new ceramic material that reduces the appearance of dust because it is white, but I have no experience with them.
I am far from an expert on performance brakes on these cars and I know that many others have had a lot more experience with various type of pads.
You are right to search around for comments on the different brands and models.

Dana

 

[JDV]

It is used to push the pistons back into the caliper housing. It pushes and turns at the same time. These pistons can not just be pushed back in. Don't know if it is needed on the fronts, haven't done them yet.

You have to do that because of the E brake. They wont push back in without "screwing" back in. Its inherent to all RW Disc brake cars.

The fronts should push straight in. BUT you have to push all pistons back in together. If you dont, one will go in while the other pushes farther out. I usually use an old pad and a C clamp to push evenly. I havnt done my cobra yet, but ive done my T bucket with 4 piston wilwoods several times.

Its not hard once you see what happens.

 

[ShelbyGuy]

fronts: pull the e-clip off the pin, pull the pin, lift caliper up and out. pads just clip in. use a block of wood and a c-clamp to compress the inner two pistons together. crack the line or the bleeder screw to make this easier.

rears: i used needle nosed pliers and a pry bar to get the e-brake cable end off the caliper. remove the bolts with the rubber accordian boots [these are serviced by your local auto parts store in a kit] and again the caliper lifts up and out. like dana said, you need the magic tool [i have the universal "cube with pins" one] to screw the rear caliper piston back in. no c-clamp or major effort required.

i was able to score the front pin/washer/e-clip kit and rear bolts/nut-sleeve-thingy/accordion seal kit from the local car quest. i have yet to change rotors.

 

[351MachOne]

Holy hell your front brakes lasted to 23k? I switched my stock ones out at about 4k... They were done... I went with some Hawk HPS and I just changed them at 10.5k... There wasnt even a tenth of an inch left on the pad...

I went with the PFC from Autozone for longer pad life. My pedal is a little softer but I can deal with NO SQUEAL!

The fronts are cake. I havent done the rears yet. From what I see it is an actuating caliper and needs to be twisted back in. No prob.

 

[Juiced-03]

LOL ya my rears need replacing right away, I cant even see any pad left! The fronts will be good for a few more months. Thanks for the replies guys!

 

[BillyMac72]

get a big hammer and long pry bar and go to work

 

[Juiced-03]

Originally posted by ShelbyGuy

rears: i used needle nosed pliers and a pry bar to get the e-brake cable end off the caliper. remove the bolts with the rubber accordian boots [these are serviced by your local auto parts store in a kit] and again the caliper lifts up and out. like dana said, you need the magic tool [i have the universal "cube with pins" one] to screw the rear caliper piston back in. no c-clamp or major effort required.

why do you have to remove the e brake cable??

 

[Dana]

Well, you actually don't have to remove the e-brake cable, but it is the lesser of 2 evils. If you don't take that off you will have to remove the brake line and open the system up.
They are both wrapped around other parts of the IRS and one of them has to be removed. The easiest one is the e-brake cable.
Besides, it has to be re-routed after the install anyway. If you do the swap, it will be obvious to you. I am not sure if the re-routing can actually be done with the e-brake cable still attached anyway. It can be done with the brake line(hose) still attached though.

Dana

 

[Juiced-03]

Thanks Dana, you have been very helpful. Everyone has told me that it wont be necessary to remove the brake line nor the E brake cable, but I dunno. I guess I'll just have to get in there myself and see! I guess the Ebrake cable can be extended by removing a bracket at the lower control arm.

 

[03InThe11s]

just a little helpfull hint, i took a 13/16"socket, and ground down the end to make two little notches that fit in the piston of the rear caliper. its free (kinda sorta), and its easy to turn (1/2"ratchet)

 

[Cobra10thaniv]

Originally posted by 03InThe11s
just a little helpfull hint, i took a 13/16"socket, and ground down the end to make two little notches that fit in the piston of the rear caliper. its free (kinda sorta), and its easy to turn (1/2"ratchet)

Now theres a guy thinking! Sounds like me I grab the whats close and start making tools if need be.

 

[SVT4ME]

Great info guys

 

[Dana]

Originally posted by Juiced-03
Thanks Dana, you have been very helpful. Everyone has told me that it wont be necessary to remove the brake line nor the E brake cable, but I dunno. I guess I'll just have to get in there myself and see! I guess the Ebrake cable can be extended by removing a bracket at the lower control arm.

The cable doesn't need to be extended, just re-routed.
Also removing the e-brake cable allows you more flexability to reposition the caliper out of the way when reinstalling the new axle. Take a piece of wire and tie it up out of the way. Don't let it hang by the hose.
The one thing that should be done is move the front bracket for the ABS line at the torque box inward (towards the driveshaft) a few inches. All that is necessary is to redrill the mounting hole for the rubber bracket and turn the bracket around. This will help keep the cables and lines off of the tire.
I have to do some work under there today. I'll try to get a few pictures of the finished layout if I can.

Dana

 

[slythetove]

I went with EBC green stuff pads on the front and Brembo slotted (not drilled) rotors. From www.tirerack.com They stop a lot better.

I recommend the pads for sure. Too bad they don't make them for the rear. I have the HPS on the way this week for the rears.

 

[Dana]

Here are a couple of pics of the finished install.
Dana

 

[Dana]

one more

 

[Juiced-03]

Thank you everyone especially Dana for the help!! I just got done and let me say I hope I never have to do it again LOL!! I hope the fronts are easier than the rears lol! The tool Autozone sold me was complete junk. It didnt work for shit. I had to file it down for it to work right and even then it wouldnt turn the piston too well. I have no idea how you guys used needle nose pliers though LMAO!!! Oh well it is all done, even though the brakes I got are kind of shitty, it stops and that is all I need hehe!

 

[CHeRNoBYL]

Not trying to hijack this thread, but can any of you brake experts tell me why I get noticeably more dusting from my rear wheels rather than my front? Is this normal? On every other vehicle I've had I get much more dust buildup on the front wheels ... did Ford use a different type of pad on the rear or are my brakes not adjusted properly?

 

[Cobra10thaniv]

Originally posted by CHeRNoBYL
Not trying to hijack this thread, but can any of you brake experts tell me why I get noticeably more dusting from my rear wheels rather than my front? Is this normal? On every other vehicle I've had I get much more dust buildup on the front wheels ... did Ford use a different type of pad on the rear or are my brakes not adjusted properly?

Ford used a differnt compound friction material in the rear pad. There is mention of this in many articles on the 03 Cobra. They had a shorter stopping distance with the differnt pad.

I agree every other car I had was always bad in the from but these cars a terrible for dust in the rear but do stop great.