my ricer moment

[ARdoller]

after fussing with my instrument cluster a number of times over the past few months, i know my fuel gauge is WAY off, which just makes it even worse than it was from the factory (i think its a good sign, when my needle reads empty and ive only put 85mi on a full tank). so im gonna look into an Autometer fuel gauge. if i get a fuel gauge, this would be a good time to look into an air/fuel gauge as well. i guess my question is, would i need a wideband or narrowband? the narrowband would fit my budget, but if its basically worthless, id just hold off on the whole "project" until i can afford the wideband.

 

[Tabres]

Why don't you just change the sender?

 

[JasonSnake]

yup, could just be the sender. Your situation sounds like my TBird, just not as bad. Even if I fill it up all the way, it barely touches the F.

 

[ARdoller]

ive pulled the needles off my gauges a number of times already, so at the very least, its a combo of the gauge/sender sucking from the factory, and the needle being miscalibrated. im sure i could get it "close" but id rather not have to depend on "close" if im on the lower half of the gauge.

 

[venom1997]

Narrow bands suck donky balls GET a wideband:beer:

 

[Gallows]

Try a new sender and don't waste your money on a narrow band a/f.

 

[9cobrastang7]

DO NOT PULL THE NEEDLES OUT. I've done this before and they all need to be recalibrated! Cost me $250 for pulling those stupid ass things out. You might want to check a speedo shop near you.

 

[mwolson]

It is pretty easy to calibrate the needles. PM me if you are interested in a calibration kit.

 

[ARdoller]

its not a matter of recalibrating them. every mustang i have driven, the gas gauge has always been off. for once, id rather have one thats actually accurate.

plus, the question had nothing to do with the gas gauge, it was about the A/F gauge, which no one except one person seemed to care about.

 

[Tabres]

Gee, sorry... only 3/4 of your post was about your fuel gauge :rollseyes


You're wasting your money if you buy a narrow-band

 

[mwolson]

its not a matter of recalibrating them. every mustang i have driven, the gas gauge has always been off. for once, id rather have one thats actually accurate.

plus, the question had nothing to do with the gas gauge, it was about the A/F gauge, which no one except one person seemed to care about.

I just figured I could help people who have removed their needles and want to get them back on the posts in the right place.

While developing a gauge needle calibration kit, I tested several clusters and the fuel gauges were extremely accurate at the E mark. I did not test them at any other mark and I did not test fuel level senders, which I would suspect first since they are in a caustic environment.

I also figured since someone else had told him that the NB guage is a worthless light show and that he should get a WB, there was no reason to pile on.

 

[Gallows]

Narrow bands suck donky balls GET a wideband:beer:

Try a new sender and don't waste your money on a narrow band a/f.

plus, the question had nothing to do with the gas gauge, it was about the A/F gauge, which no one except one person seemed to care about.

Nope there were two of us. I have a PLX wideband PLX Devices Inc. - Multi Gauges, Single Gauges, Sensor Modules, Wideband Air Fuel Ratio, Data Logging, Fuel Saving / Scan Tools I have the second unit down with the white gauge and even my tuner was impressed with it.

 

[ARdoller]

thank you.

the only reason i mentioned the fuel gauge, was because im sick of them not reading correct (i had the sender replaced in my last mustang, and it still was never right), so i figured if i was gonna get a new fuel gauge that i know will be accurate, i could just get a two-gauge pillar and put an A/F gauge in as well, since thats the only other gauge id have a purpose for. im not one to put gauges in my car for no reason, so id only ever buy what i feel i need, which is an accurate fuel gauge, and an A/F gauge.

 

[ARdoller]

i guess my next question would be, do both narrowband and wideband gauges work with the same o2 sensors, or do you have to replace the o2 sensors with wideband sensors to use a wideband gauge?

 

[Gallows]

I don't know how the N/B hooks up but my PLX came with a bung and O2 with it.

 

[mwolson]

i guess my next question would be, do both narrowband and wideband gauges work with the same o2 sensors, or do you have to replace the o2 sensors with wideband sensors to use a wideband gauge?

The wideband requires a special sensor. Most people weld in an extra bung for the WB sensor.

Some widebands such as my PLX M300 has a narrow band output, which is what I am using. I ran the NB signal to the connector from an old O2 sensor, and put the WB sensor into the front driver's side stock bung. If you go that route, you will need to put a 20 ohm 10 watt resistor across the O2 heater pins on that connector to avoid a heater failure CEL.

Others turn off the rear O2 sensors in the tune and put their after one of the cats. I wouldn't do that, though, because the cats affect the exhaust chemistry so you will not get as accurate a reading.

 

[mwolson]

Speaking of rice, here is how I installed mine in my car:

 

[Gallows]

Pretty sneaky setup:beer: Does the CD player still work?

 

[mwolson]

Pretty sneaky setup:beer: Does the CD player still work?

The stock CD decks die young. There is now an iPod hidden under the dash instead. I have a second foglight switch that controls a relay that switches between the radio and the iPod. I have a wireless remote control for the iPod on the visor.