My Whipple SC arrived yesterday

Grey03Cobra

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Originally posted by Wild Bill
Wow,sounds awesome! Please pm. me when you have it done.I would deffinatley like to see the whipple in action.If you want I can give you a run before and after to see what kind of real world gains you get.


I probably won't drive the car until I get that tick fixed, it drives me nuts. But I'll let you know once it's done.
 

akaeric

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From experiance building motors while the motor is open you should go ahead and replace all the lower end parts you might not get a nother chance better safe than sorry. Just because they call them selfs a speed shop doesn't mean they are good check out how clean there place is. If its clean then there work habits are clean. All it will take is one gran of sand on the crank to destroy the lower end. Try and check on their customers experiance and how if their motors are still togther and how long. This is just a suggestion your talking about alot of money and all things should be investagated beileve me I have had to repull a mopor 440 after just putting it back in the car because they sold me a marine crank which is design to direct oil out of the block so it leaked out of the seals. Talking about being pissed.
 

Hissss5

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Originally posted by Grey03Cobra
Only from this view...

rear1.jpg





J/K:-D

See how you are. :p
 

fr03cobra

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I thought the only way to get rid of the tick was to get the new head ford replaced it with how are new pistons going to get rid of the tick? Is it the new valve guides you put in?
 

kingcobra8541

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AEM computer

Hey Grey03, you may want to rethink the AEM. I had one in a project I did about 2 years ago. I bought it thinking because it was "plug and play" it would be and easy alternative to a full stand alone system. There is nothin plug and play about it! The disk comes with "tuning" instuctions its a noval! I messed with the system and could barly get the car to fire.( and that was while I was on the phone with tech support in cali. wracking up the phone bill) I finally brought to a "pro" who had tuned all kinds of differnt systems after 2 days he called me to come get my car, he was frustrated and told me just to take the car at no charge. it was dead rich and it limped home. I spent about a grand to finally get it tuned right.
Since the system has been out for a little while now there may be more people we know how to tune those things. DO NOT THINK YOU CAN DO IT YOURSELF! Trust me!

:nono:
 

NeverEnoughHP

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Maybe you guys cam help out a internal motor rookie. I am very seriously thinking about a new power adder, KB or Whipple. Waiting on the GF's approval :bash: What exactly does it take to upgrade pistons. And should you bore to a 5.0? Also, should you do cams at this point too? Need some prices, info, and opinions please.
 

Grey03Cobra

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Re: AEM computer

Originally posted by kingcobra8541
Hey Grey03, you may want to rethink the AEM. I had one in a project I did about 2 years ago. I bought it thinking because it was "plug and play" it would be and easy alternative to a full stand alone system. There is nothin plug and play about it! The disk comes with "tuning" instuctions its a noval! I messed with the system and could barly get the car to fire.( and that was while I was on the phone with tech support in cali. wracking up the phone bill) I finally brought to a "pro" who had tuned all kinds of differnt systems after 2 days he called me to come get my car, he was frustrated and told me just to take the car at no charge. it was dead rich and it limped home. I spent about a grand to finally get it tuned right.
Since the system has been out for a little while now there may be more people we know how to tune those things. DO NOT THINK YOU CAN DO IT YOURSELF! Trust me!

:nono:

The place I'm taking it to here (Factor X Performance) has a lot of experience with AEM. They mostly work on NSX's, but they offered to do the install and tuning and I only pay for it if I'm satisfied. I watched them work with the AEM on some other cars, and they no kidding know what they are doing, otherwise I would just get a chip burned.
 

Grey03Cobra

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Originally posted by NeverEnoughHP
Maybe you guys cam help out a internal motor rookie. I am very seriously thinking about a new power adder, KB or Whipple. Waiting on the GF's approval :bash: What exactly does it take to upgrade pistons. And should you bore to a 5.0? Also, should you do cams at this point too? Need some prices, info, and opinions please.

You don't have to do any engine mods with the KB or Whipple, they are truly bolt on (fuel upgrades, and engine management upgrades are necessary though, depending on how high you want to run the boost) The only reason I'm putting new pistons on is because the I have that tick, and it appears to be because of the teflon wearing off the stock pistons.

The cams on the 03 Cobra's are designed to work with the supercharger, so I would leave these alone.

Trying to stroke out your engine will be expensive for the 03's simply because there isn't a lot of kits out there for under $3,000, and it really isn't necessecary unless you want to compete. Believe me, a properly tuned KB or Whipple 03 Cobra will have more than enough power for you on the street (especially with the IRS and street tires)....but that is just my opinion, some people can't help but always want more horespower.

With a stroker kit, and pulling the engine, and getting everything done, you are probably looking close to $7,000, plus a lot of down time for the car. If you really want to go that route, I'd wait until there are more kits out there and the price comes down.

Either way, good luck, and have fun.
 
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Grey03Cobra

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Originally posted by akaeric
From experiance building motors while the motor is open you should go ahead and replace all the lower end parts you might not get a nother chance better safe than sorry. Just because they call them selfs a speed shop doesn't mean they are good check out how clean there place is. If its clean then there work habits are clean. All it will take is one gran of sand on the crank to destroy the lower end. Try and check on their customers experiance and how if their motors are still togther and how long. This is just a suggestion your talking about alot of money and all things should be investagated beileve me I have had to repull a mopor 440 after just putting it back in the car because they sold me a marine crank which is design to direct oil out of the block so it leaked out of the seals. Talking about being pissed.

Thanks for the advice. I have checked them out, and they do run a tight ship there.
 

Grey03Cobra

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Originally posted by fr03cobra
I thought the only way to get rid of the tick was to get the new head ford replaced it with how are new pistons going to get rid of the tick? Is it the new valve guides you put in?

A majority of the people I've talked to that have gotten the head swap say they still had the tick afterwards, and the only other option Ford gave them was to replace the motor (only because Ford dealerships typically don't do engine rebuilds).

I've heard from others who have done piston swaps, and the tick went away.

I've talked to a few techs here, and they say as the teflon wears off the skirts of the pistons (and because our pistons are "floating pistons") they get a bit of piston slap on the cylinder walls once the teflon starts to wear off the piston skirts.

Either way, there are a lot of theories out there about what the tick is, I'll let you all know if the JE pistons solved the problem once everything is done.
 

AzDropTop

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Possible stupid question warning from a 99er...:)

Are the Whipples considered better than the KB's? I've learned a little about why the KB's are better than the Eaton's, so just curious.
 

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