I own a 96 Cobra with a stock engine (113k miles) and minor modifications. I have many questions regarding upcoming maintenance and would greatly appreciate anyone's opinion/advice. The rad. is a Fluidyne and likely needs flushing. What do you think of Royal Purple's Purple Flush for this purpose? I've read of people first adding this to the rad., then driving about 50 to 60 miles before flushing out the cooling system. On that note, does Water Wetter/Purple Ice truly drop temperatures? Is one preferable to the other? In addition to the rad., some of the engine is aluminum; thus, should I use a Dex-Cool type of antifreeze? Is Peak a preferred brand? Installed are 60k miles old copper plugs that I'm probably going to change. Is iridium preferable to platinum, or...? I'm skipping copper because of frequent replacement requirements compared to the other two. Should I consider a third, alternative metal? Also, should I consider replacing the coil packs and/or some other component of the electrical system? The car's growing sluggish, and I'm thinking it's due to something electrical. The compression checks out fine. I believe the rear gear is a 3.27. Would changing it out to a taller 3.73, 4.10 etc. accelerate things? Very unlikely this car is heading to the track, just street use. Finally, is there a CAI that is CARB legal and worth the $? Perhaps that's something of an oxymoron. I installed then uninstalled a Demolet CAI, which I was happy with (it became CARB illegal several years after purchase). Lastly, any recommendations regarding brake pads and rotors? Thank you very much for reading this. I realize it's exceedingly lengthy, but would appreciate any advice.
Need Advice
- Thread starter therzl
- Start date
Use Autolite 764 gapped to .054 These cars love the copper. Dont mess with new coil packs unless its needed, and only replace with OEM. Throw some 4.30s in the back (skip the 3.73 and 4.10), and buy a K&N drop in filter.
If the car is sluggish, the IMRCs may be stuck closed. Any CEL codes?
If the car is sluggish, the IMRCs may be stuck closed. Any CEL codes?
You can use the Royal purple Flush for that purpose.
The water wetter and purple ice shit works better with only water. Do not mix with coolant.
Use the regular green coolant, any brand, and mix the ratio to your climate.
Check the how to section here to bleed the system properly. Might as well change the thermostat while you're in there.
Check all the rad and heater hoses too for defects.
Spark plugs, I like copper plugs. For your case, Iridium is just fine.
For spark plug wires, use Motorcraft or NGK only.
As far the coils, check for physical defects like cracks on the body or the epoxy. Bench test them with a ohm meter (resistance check).
How to test a Coil Pack - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans
If they need replacement, use FORD/MOTORCRAFT coils only.
If the car is feeling a little sluggish:
Are the IMRCs still functioning? (not disconnected or tied open), quite possible they need a cleaning (remove intake manifold for this job).
Replace fuel filter if it hasnt been done in a while.
Test/replace O2 sensors (can also check with a good hand held scanner with the voltage readings)
Clean MAF sensor with a proper cleaner.
Clean Throttle Body with appropriate cleaner as well.
Install an air/oil seperator as well to keep oil out of the intake tract.
Cold air Kits, honestly the stock tube and airbox with the silencer removed, with a good flowing air filter is very sufficient.
Brakes, stock replacement blank rotors (any brand that sells them coated. Coated so they dont look like shit after a week), and a good set of Semi Metallic or Organic Brake Pads. (Wagner, Raybestos, Centric/StopTech, EBC, Hawk, Performance Friction etc).
If the brake fluid looks like shit, flush the fluid out with fresh fluid.
The water wetter and purple ice shit works better with only water. Do not mix with coolant.
Use the regular green coolant, any brand, and mix the ratio to your climate.
Check the how to section here to bleed the system properly. Might as well change the thermostat while you're in there.
Check all the rad and heater hoses too for defects.
Spark plugs, I like copper plugs. For your case, Iridium is just fine.
For spark plug wires, use Motorcraft or NGK only.
As far the coils, check for physical defects like cracks on the body or the epoxy. Bench test them with a ohm meter (resistance check).
How to test a Coil Pack - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans
If they need replacement, use FORD/MOTORCRAFT coils only.
If the car is feeling a little sluggish:
Are the IMRCs still functioning? (not disconnected or tied open), quite possible they need a cleaning (remove intake manifold for this job).
Replace fuel filter if it hasnt been done in a while.
Test/replace O2 sensors (can also check with a good hand held scanner with the voltage readings)
Clean MAF sensor with a proper cleaner.
Clean Throttle Body with appropriate cleaner as well.
Install an air/oil seperator as well to keep oil out of the intake tract.
Cold air Kits, honestly the stock tube and airbox with the silencer removed, with a good flowing air filter is very sufficient.
Brakes, stock replacement blank rotors (any brand that sells them coated. Coated so they dont look like shit after a week), and a good set of Semi Metallic or Organic Brake Pads. (Wagner, Raybestos, Centric/StopTech, EBC, Hawk, Performance Friction etc).
If the brake fluid looks like shit, flush the fluid out with fresh fluid.
Last edited:
Op, read this.
https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/index.php?threads/465027/
Sent from my SM-G892A using the svtperformance.com mobile app
https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/index.php?threads/465027/
Sent from my SM-G892A using the svtperformance.com mobile app
The stickys are your friend OP
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