Need car audio help

Swole

Im Swole
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Whats up everyone need some quick suggestions on what could be wrong with my car audio setup. My car audio has worked for over a year with no issues at all. So heres the low down. I have an 2005 Ford Escape Limited, i have an aftermarket head unit, amp, and single 10 inch sub. 3 days ago my alternator went out on my car so it would only stay charged through a jump for a few minutes and die. My whole system would still work fine. I picked the car up today after the new alternator was installed, no changes made to anything else and my amp/sub doesn't work. I notice the fuses in the amp are blown, and i buy some new ones. Great, got it fixed...3 seconds later it pops the fuses. I go through about 12 fuses and they all pop within a few seconds each time. The fuse in the front next to my battery never pops. I take try a different amp the fuses pop in that amp also. I literally take all the wire out and ground out, redo it all today and it still pops all the fuses. I feel like im crazy because i cant figure it out. The very last try i thought i got it to work, the amp doesn't pop the fuse for over a minute, however the amp starts to fry and begins to smoke. I cant figure it out. The dealer swears they haven't done anything else to the car. I used a meter to test volts on everything i could think of, the "remote" wire which runs from the head unit to the amp and turns it on basically was spiking up to almost 20 volts and i thought that was the issue, i replaced it and it stayed at a steady 13.9 volts and would still pop the fuses.

Aftermarket Kenwood Excelon head unit
Audio Bahn Sub
Audio Bahn mono amp
Pioneer mono amp (now fried)
 

ModularFan

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There's definitely a Voltage issue, or some kind of electrical issue going on? have you replaced the whole fuse box?
 

noahsark2012

4V 500rwhp club
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what gauge amp wire and ground wire are you running?

sounds like you're getting entirely too much juice running through the wires and it's causing the amp fuses to blow, either that or the vehicle chassis ground (from battery to the car's chassis) is improperly grounded or has a bad connection.

also ask the dealership if the alternator they put in has the same amperage output as the one that was originally in there. (e.g. used to have a 75 Amp Alternator, but now has a 130 amp alternator) might be part of your problem.
 

NA97GT

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Jun 22, 2004
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measure the voltage at the alternator, as well as the voltage at the battery, both at idle and reving the engine. You could have a voltage regulator that is not working properly. Your deck should never have output 20volts from the remote wire, can you elaborate on what youy did to fix that issue. BTW im an audio installer.
 

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