Need some help: P0171/0174/1000 codes

[Tex Arcana]

So, back when I did my separator R&R (http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-187/824413-oil-separator-installation-r-r-new-post.html), I reset my SES.*

Needless to say, it didn't hold long.

Fast forward to the end of June, I finally get some time to check on this. I pulled the separator (which wasn't working well anyhow, definitely leaking oil and likely air), and ran the PCV line straight to the PCV "valve". Reset the codes, took a drive of about 25 miles, made a stop of about 30 minutes (truck shut down); the code came back, about 3 minutes after the restart.

Last Tuesday, I rechecked the lines, pull off the red one from the passenger side and made sure I had a totally straight shot into the PCV inlet on the blower; I also checked all of the lines on the driver's side and made sure all were tight and seated. Reset codes (using my Superchips ECU reflash unit), drove about 35 miles, went to a friend's house. Hung out awhile, truck cooled down; I then left to go home, and the SES popped again, about 5 minutes into the drive.*

While I was at my friend's, I read a bit on the drive cycle (Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle), but couldn't get too deeply into it. But that brought up a few questions:

1) do I have to do the entire drive cycle to clear the codes (assuming there is no air leak)??*

2) or am I forced to do the complete drive cycle as shown, and hope everything holds and I can do everything step-by-step without being stopped by traffic or cops??

3) is it possible my Superchips tune isn't playing nice with my fuel? I typically use Walmart gas (10% ethanol, thank you EPA and metro areas), and I hadn't had a proble before.*

4) Should I pull the tune and try again;*

5) Should I try again, do the drive cycle, and THEN pull the tune if that fails?


I'm pretty certain that I replaced the hose on the port on the lower intake, with a decent fuel-rated hose, and clamped it with a hose clamp. The worst problem here is my living situation: we're in an apartment, they have strict "NO WORKIE ON CARS!!" rules, and we won't be getting into the house were building until mid-September, at best. I don't have a place where I can pull the blower to get to that orifice and hose on the lower intake; and my inspection sticker is out. Another issue is my commute: 1.2 miles each way doesn't allow for the truck to do much of anything before I have to stop--that'll be solved in a few short months, but I'm also hoping to have an efficient beater to drive by then, so I can garage the beast and take better care of it.*

So, loyal denizens of SVTP: impart thine wisdom upon me!! Spare not mine feelings; give it to me straight and true; so I might learn, and profit.*

Thanks folks!

 

[WhiTriCobra]

I know i had all same 3 codes at one point. 171/174 are the lean bank 1 and 2. I made sure the midpipe to headers was tight, 02's were tight and they were. Next i pulled the SC and my lower intake hose had a rip in it. I replaced it and the codes went away. For the 1000, i told Rick to fix it in the tune and he did. Sucks you can't work on the truck where you live but do you have any friends or family where you can take it and work on it?
I would make sure everything was tight and all vac lines look good. If so, you need to recheck that rear lower intake hose. Call your tuner and get a update tune to take the 1000 off.

 

[Tex Arcana]

I know i had all same 3 codes at one point. 171/174 are the lean bank 1 and 2. I made sure the midpipe to headers was tight, 02's were tight and they were. Next i pulled the SC and my lower intake hose had a rip in it. I replaced it and the codes went away. For the 1000, i told Rick to fix it in the tune and he did. Sucks you can't work on the truck where you live but do you have any friends or family where you can take it and work on it?
I would make sure everything was tight and all vac lines look good. If so, you need to recheck that rear lower intake hose. Call your tuner and get a update tune to take the 1000 off.

My "tuner" is a handheld Superchips reflash unit, just takes a stock tune and motor, and improves it a bit.

I'm beating the bushes now, trying to find someone to volunteer a garage, and maybe some hands...:bowdown:

 

[Tex Arcana]

Update

So, spent some time on it this weekend:



Passenger side of motor, sans separator:

PCV "valve" and elbow/fittings/line, all good (the oil y'all see is from the old POS separator):

Driver side, under the snorkel, where the PCV and bypass tube source, solid connections:

Snorkel connection to throttle body, all good:

Eh, IAT sensor in the filter hasn't been giving me any issues, but I don't like how this fits, gonna get fixed:

This doesn't look too good, despite the hose clamps. I reset the hose, pressed it on far deeper, and then locked it down with the clamps:

This looks fine, as does the connection to the tube to the turkey pan:

Ahhhhh, MUUUCH better!! I actually filed down the ridge just below the flange you see, which allowed the two tabs to lock into the hole better. It pushes the sensor further into the cavity, and gets it (hopefully) out of the boundary layer, and (hopefully) gets a better reading:

And after AAALLLLL that rigamarole... No win. :smt013:smt097:smt021

I took it for the Ford OBDII ECU reset drive cycle (OMFGWTFBBQ WHAT A FVKKING PAIN IN THE AZZ!!! There is no WAY to complete that properly without a fvkking dyno or a private road that's at least 50 miles long and deserted!! :nonono::bash::fm, I had some trouble completing it as written; so I went for a fairly long drive after that, about 50-60 miles all-told. No code until I stopped to refuel, and when I checked it before restarting, they came back, P0171 & P0174.

So I guess it's down to either the turkey pan elbow, the fuel filter (which was replaced at about 50k iirc--90k now), or O2 sensors. I've tried spraying the intake/blower/upper intake joints, and no leaks as far as I can tell.

Now to find a garage and a couple days to work on this. I'm also gonna get some 400° auto trans hose for all of the hoses in the system. I'm also thinking about a way to get a hardline from the turkey pan orifice up to the tee on the drivers side.

(sigh) more work...

 

[WhiTriCobra]

I would go ahead and just pull the SC. i'm betting it's the piece that attaches right there at the bottom of the lower intake/turkey pan. Plus good time to clean your intercooler and inside lower intake. Also the IAT1 wouldn't really cause that issue since it's before the MAF and the MAF would have adjusted for it.