New build time. Need a monster amount of input.

[forged00]

Well my ocd took over and the cars getting torn down into a roller and starting from scratch. Long story short, I bought the car about a year ago. It was a decent build, with valuable parts, but had a lot of corners cut and way too much crap rigged that it hasn't been able to run properly the entire time I've had it. Finally got it going good, put it on the dyno last week, did two pulls at over 700hp each and the floated the drivers side head by stretching the stock head bolts with 24psi. So I'm tired of fixing another persons rig job and doing everything right my way. Here's a run down of what I picked up.

1999 Mustang Cobra. 100k on body, 23k on longblock/trans (pulled from a salvaged 04 cobra)

Engine:
Factory forged 04 engine
Crower stage 2 blower cams
[INT/EXH - Dur @ .050” Lift: 212°/212° RR: 1.8/1.8 Gross Lift: .484”/.484” LSA: 114°]
Crower Valve springs
Crower Retainers
99 Cobra intake
Accufab twin 62mm TB
Pro M MAF
8 qt MMR baffled oil pan.
BBK Headers / Spintech mufflers

Supercharger Setup:
Paxton novi 2000 custom 24lb pulley/ 8 RIB setup
3 inch aluminum intercooler cold side
Tial 60mm "race" BOV
BMPR 4 Inch intercooler

Fuel:
Magnafuel protuner 750 -4303
Gen1 Fore fuel rails
-10an fuel line
-8an return
Aeromotive FPR
04 cobra baffled and sumped tank
Kenne Bell boost-a-pump

Drivetrain:
04 Cobra T-56 with MGW 26 spline input shaft
Tri-Ax Shifter
Stage 3 Spec clutch and flywheel
UPR quadrant and firewall adjuster
Dyntech aluminum drive shaft
31 spline Solid axle swap with 3.73 gears

Suspension/Wheels:
Kenny brown camber/caster plates
Lakewood 90/10 front shocks
M&M Rear Coilovers
Steeda UCA/LCA
Prothane UCA bushings
Full length weld in Sub frame connectors
17x9 & 17x10.5 SVT 10th Anniversary wheels.
255/45/R17 Nitto 555s up front
315/50/R17 Mickey Thompson ET Streets
Cross drilled 13" rotors up front w/03 cobra calipers

After those two pulls, I already know I'm close to maxing out that stock shortblock, at least with the pistons. I know the crank and rods are good for 1k hp which happens to be my goal. My fuel system is strong enough also and E85 compatible, which is what I'm switching to once I get some larger injectors.

So my question for you experience high horsepower guys - is what would you do? I'm considering selling the shortblock as is and building a fresh teksid based build after, or should I reuse my stick block, crank, rods, and just get some ~.020" over pistons? I'm also about debating on selling the blower kit and going with twins just for the high possible horsepower potential. Either way the cars down for a while, motor should finally be out tomorrow, and now I just need a heading on which direction to go. Thanks for the input and help!

 

[Oiljunkie]

most 1k builds are teksid blocks.

there are actually some really good reads in the termi section regarding engines to handle big power.

 

[Brutal Metal]

Holy Moly 24lbs out of a NOVI? That Biatch is Maxxed!!
I as well would do an aluminum block build...

 

[forged00]

most 1k builds are teksid blocks.

there are actually some really good reads in the termi section regarding engines to handle big power.

I'll have to check them out later today! I've got a lot of research to do anyways.

Holy Moly 24lbs out of a NOVI? That Biatch is Maxxed!!
I as well would do an aluminum block build...

Actually it's the latest generation of the Novi 2000s and maxes out at 27-28psi. I still have room.

I'm looking towards the teksid based build with my stock crank and rods with some upgraded pistons. It'll still handle what I want and is the "cheap" alternative in a way.

 

[01yellercobra]

I'll have to check them out later today! I've got a lot of research to do anyways.




Actually it's the latest generation of the Novi 2000s and maxes out at 27-28psi. I still have room.

I'm looking towards the teksid based build with my stock crank and rods with some upgraded pistons. It'll still handle what I want and is the "cheap" alternative in a way.

Cheap, fast, reliable. Pick two. IMO I wouldn't be looking at stock Manley's for 1000hp. They might hold, they might not. Spend the money now on decent rods before you window a block.

Have you done the math to see how hard you're spinning the blower? Just because they say it can make 28psi doesn't mean you'll see it on your set up. I had a maxed out T trim making 15psi because of my set up.

 

[forged00]

Cheap, fast, reliable. Pick two. IMO I wouldn't be looking at stock Manley's for 1000hp. They might hold, they might not. Spend the money now on decent rods before you window a block.

Have you done the math to see how hard you're spinning the blower? Just because they say it can make 28psi doesn't mean you'll see it on your set up. I had a maxed out T trim making 15psi because of my set up.

"If it's fast and cheap, it's not reliable. If it's fast and reliable, it ain't cheap." Haha. I'm well aware of that unfortunately

I'm not sure on the exact pulley combo, but with my 10% overdrive and whatever pulley is on my blower (it's a custom size) I racked up 23.5psi on the dyno.

 

[shurur]

I think na svt had said that the 05-10 3v block was even stronger than the teksid..and maybe more plentiful...

 

[forged00]

I think na svt had said that the 05-10 3v block was even stronger than the teksid..and maybe more plentiful...

Yep. The WAP block (Windsor aluminum plant). I've already got a teksid I can pick up for cheap anytime I want to here locally here in Houston. But if there were none available that'd be my second choice for a block b

 

[32vApe]

The jump from 700whp to 1000 is big. I would not trust stock Manley's at that level. I would go billet. I would do a teksid based short block. Do not go less than 10:1 compression. Your going to need 3" exhaust no matter what. Your going to need bigger headers if you stick with cenri's. The durability of the stock valves and stock seats is questionable at that power. Having the heads ported and the intake heavily worked is going to make hitting that kind of power a lot easier.

 

[forged00]

The jump from 700whp to 1000 is big. I would not trust stock Manley's at that level. I would go billet. I would do a teksid based short block. Do not go less than 10:1 compression. Your going to need 3" exhaust no matter what. Your going to need bigger headers if you stick with cenri's. The durability of the stock valves and stock seats is questionable at that power. Having the heads ported and the intake heavily worked is going to make hitting that kind of power a lot easier.

Heads are definitely getting ported. I'm trying to find something local before I send them to livernois or fox lake. The more I think about it I'm leaning towards the 5.0 stroker teksid shortblock at around 10.5:1, and I'm selling the novi kit this weekend and sticking to the twin set up. The accessibility and the higher potential turbos have sold me on that.

 

[01yellercobra]

Have you thought about a big bore set up? It's easier to make power with more cubes. And the larger bore unshrouds the valves for better flow.

 

[forged00]

Have you thought about a big bore set up? It's easier to make power with more cubes. And the larger bore unshrouds the valves for better flow.

Would the .020" on the 5.0 stroker be considered a big bore?

 

[Nightmare90gt]

No a big bore takes either sleeving your teksid block or buying a big bore block. A big bore is a bore of 3.700 vs stock 3.552

 

[forged00]

No a big bore takes either sleeving your teksid block or buying a big bore block. A big bore is a bore of 3.700 vs stock 3.552

Got it. Are there really that beneficial of gains going that big of a bore? I've personally only seen bug bore applications mostly on NA apps.

 

[01yellercobra]

I had a big bore stroker in my 01. It came out to 5.3L. At 12psi and 12 degrees of timing it made 496rwhp on a mustang dyno. That was with a D1, stock intake, stock 03 heads and Ford GT cams.

 

[forged00]

I had a big bore stroker in my 01. It came out to 5.3L. At 12psi and 12 degrees of timing it made 496rwhp on a mustang dyno. That was with a D1, stock intake, stock 03 heads and Ford GT cams.

Why only 12psi? Were you just being conservative?

 

[Oiljunkie]

I've read mixed reviews regarding big bore blocks and stroker build approaching 1k and exceeding that range. Main caps walking, heads lifting. Most of the problems seem to have been from boss blocks iirc.

You might want to reconsider switching to an auto transmission.

 

[forged00]

I've read mixed reviews regarding big bore blocks and stroker build approaching 1k and exceeding that range. Main caps walking, heads lifting. Most of the problems seem to have been from boss blocks iirc.

You might want to reconsider switching to an auto transmission.

Most of the 1k builds I've read up on are still 4.6l/5.4l bases. I've also read mixed reviews on the boss blocks. :-/

And unfortunately I know since I'm going turbo I'll have to switch to auto to get the full potential. I'll still have fun with my 6 speed in the beginning though.

 

[01yellercobra]

Why only 12psi? Were you just being conservative?

Just where I ended up at the time. I never dynoed it with the F1A at 19psi. But it was pretty fast.

 

[forged00]

Well after a month of consistent working, and going through TX2K to feed my addiction, I've decided to be more reasonable. Sad story is that I've owned the car for over a year, and haven't been able to fully drive it for longer than three days. I could spend the time on building up my TT kit but don't want the car down for another year so I thought of something different. I've chosen to get the longblock redone and run the car NA for now while I build the TT kit on the side. I know that since I'll be running turbos in the end that I'll have to up my compression anyways. Since its a stock 03 cobra block I know that it would be pointless to run it NA at its ~8.6:1 CR. I'll rebuild the shortblock to be happy at handling around 800+ HP. I've decided to run the stock block and crank, and just up my rods and pistons. Unfortunately I'm also ballin on a budget like most of us are lol. I've got the blower kit up for sale so hopefully it will sell soon and help fund the shortblock build and part of my turbo build as well.

Now questions for you, what's the best decent price rod and piston combo I should go with? I know I would get more cash if I sold the shortblock whole but I would only do that if I decided to go with a 5.0 stroker teksid build. Would that be worth it or would I get the same results basically but building a solid 4.6 foundation?