New clutch problem!

[Skudra]

I got my SPEC stage III clutch thursday the 14th and got it put in that day. The place who put it in calls me up and says that the release bearing that SPEC supplied doesnt fit. I decide to let them put one of their release bearings in instead of having to send it back and pay double for the install. I have broken the clutch in for 330 kms and first gear is still really crappy and notchy. Every time I release the clutch slowly in first gear the car shakes like crazy. If I give it a little gas and release it a little quicker it doesnt seem to do it. It also shakes a little when I slowly gear down into second. Now, my questions:
1) should the clutch be ok without the SPEC release bearing?
2) is the shaking normal until its totally broken in?
3) I heard that since it is a performance clutch that its supposed to be 'popped' a little quicker than normal. True?

Any advice is appreciated, thanks!

 

[Red98CobraStang]

I think the shaking is from engaging the clutch so slow. The clutch is actually slipping when you do that. Drive it a little longer and dont be so soft on the clutch. Is your pedal real Stiff? Cuz I think I have a spec stage 3 in my car and my pedal is like Im pushing on a brick wall!!

 

[Doug]

the car will screech while trying to slip it since it is an on/off clutch.
I, too, need to have my assembly modified. I needed a "clutch fork pivot ball". I would have them check it out to make sure its fully releasing the clutch. Its a 15$ part from summit to fix. My stock pivot ball was about 1/4" too long. Mine is due to having the tremec and the lakewood safety bellhousing (scatter proof).

I would say that you probably need one, too.

also, try pulling up on the clutch pedal to see if that helps.

 

[94CobraPace]

The spec stage III clutch is a very sticky clutch & does not slip well. Did you use a billet flywheel? Using a stock flywheel can cause problems with a spec III. Spec recomends using a billet flywheel when using their stickier clutches. I don't think the throw out bearing is the problem. I think it is the clutch not liking to be slipped.

 

[CY98Cobra]

Is your pedal real Stiff? Cuz I think I have a spec stage 3 in my car and my pedal is like Im pushing on a brick wall!!

Everything I've geard says spec clutches have a light pedal. If you're pedal is stiff I would bet you have a FRPP King Cobra clutch, which are known for the stiff pedal. Mine is very stiff with the King Cobra. My girlfriend can't even drive my car becasue of it.

 

[WhiteDevil]

Well good thing you got the Spec Stag III for all those 680ftlbs of torque u have :lol: Why would u get such a sticky clutch when u have just light bolt ons.

 

[CY98Cobra]

That's why I have a stage 1 waiting to go in. I think it makes some people feel more manly if they say they have a stage 25 clutch.

 

[WhiteDevil]

Stage 1 for me too those are good for 400ftlbs or so.

 

[CY98Cobra]

I wish I needed a stage 3. How do you like the stage 1? I have one waiting for my king cobra to go out.

 

[WhiteDevil]

Dont have it yet, June its going in along with a steeda quadrant, cable, and firewall adjuster. As well as a new Rear main seal.

 

[CY98Cobra]

Oh ok.

 

[SnakeBite98]

im getting the Stage II put in as we speak, you wouldn't really need a stage III until you're getting in the 10 sec territory with ballsy launches every time.

 

[Doug]

there is a difference between driving on the street and making your way up to peak power...

runnin at the strip when your clutch sees 0 ft/lbs at one instance then over 600ft/lbs in a millisecond (like my car) then you are going to need a good clutch.

Its not all about torque specs and so forth. Launching a car on slicks is going to need something more than a stage one. clamping force, disk material are all things to be considerred. The stage 3 was made to handle a lot of abuse, whereas a stage one was made for regular street driving of a powerful vehicle.

 

[CY98Cobra]

I understand your need of a stage 3 Doug. However, for an n/a bolt-on car I think it's overkill.

 

[Skudra]

My main concern was basically strength. I know I would never use the 600 ft/lbs its made for, but I wanted a really strong clutch. I am just curious as to why this happens or if there was a problem. I cant look back now, its in for a long time!

 

[RippinSVT]

Keep slipping a puck-clutch and I guarantee you'll replace within 2000 miles...

 

[SnakeBite98]

Keep slipping a puck-clutch and I guarantee you'll replace within 2000 miles...

yea, strength can be hard with a SPEC Stage I even, you don't need a grippy clutch for it to be strong. just brake it in correctly and get a clutch quadrant upgrade. Since its in there, you just gotta get new mods to support the clutch :banana: :rockon:

 

[Skudra]

Ok, so I need upgrade some things to be safe. Upgrade the clutch quadrant and anything else? Best places to get the clutch quadrant upgrade? The clutch is actually starting to slip a little less, I guess Im getting used to it. I still really like it cuz the pedal is a lot easier to push and it grabs a lot better than my stock one. I was just concerned that the slipping was a huge problem, but now that I kinda know how to drive it I think it'll be ok.

 

[Wylde Horses]

You'll need a clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster. The two most popular manufacterers are probably UPR and Steeda. And yeah, don't worry too much about the clutch chatter, it usually goes away as the clutch gets more broken in, or at least becomes far less noticable.

BTW, good to see another local on the boards. One of the best mustang mechanics in the lower mainland is a guy named Rick at Trax Autocraft - really knowledgeable and has no trouble fixing any trouble I get myself into. Also, vancouvermustangs.com is a good local forum to find out where the decent shops are, etc.

 

[Skudra]

Thanks very much for the info! I have had some problems in the past with people not being able to fix and diagnose things that might be wrong with my car, so its good to hear about shops that know their stuff.