Ok so I had been having issues with the fuel system. Some sort of electrical gremlin where the car had no fuel pressure. I thought we had that figured out. The FPDMs were overheating and going into thermal shutdown so plugging in a spare set would fix the issue. This was happening before I tore down the whole front end to replace the timing cover gasket.
I replaced the timing cover gasket, put everything back together and she started up and ran fine. No more leaks at all by the way so that was a success at least........However, I drove it about 4 miles to a gas station to fill her up and then it wouldn't start after putting gas in. It would turn over but not start. Turns out I have zero fuel pressure again. I hooked up the spare, nice and cool, FPDMs that ive been running around with.........same issue. I have a fuse that runs on its own line near the battery under the hood. I checked it and it was blown. Replaced the fuse and the car started up but now it wont hold idle.............:bash: It will die immediately if I take my foot off the gas. So im thinking IAC Valve........the fact that I got a p1504 code reinforced this. I limp the car home and clean the IAC Valve with some carb cleaner (no I didn't spray it directly into the valve). I reinstall the valve and the car starts and holds idle again. Problem solved right? Wrong.....
The next day I drive the car another 10 miles without issue. On the way back home it starts to stutter and doesn't want to go, but clears itself up once I get up to speed. Then as Im slowing down coming to a red light the car dies again. I pull over and it starts back up but AGAIN will not hold idle unless I keep my foot on the gas. Im getting code p1504 again along with FIVE other codes which were: p0171, p0174, p0325, p0330 and p1233. P0325 and P0330 im not worried about because those are knock sensor codes and this car doesn't have any (mach 1 aluminum block). Basically fuel related again, but the car is getting fuel........When I keep my foot on the gas and let it run and just hold it steady at say 1k rpm it will run all day long and gets a steady 35-40 psi of fuel pressure and it holds that even revving to 5k rpm.
So this time I went and bought a brand new IAC valve at my local Vato Zone and installed it. It didn't fix the issue. The car will still not hold idle even with a brand new IAC valve. I took the part back and got my money back. So that's where I am at right now. I cant figure this out and all I want to do is drive the damn thing reliably :shrug:
Mods list:
5.0l stroker fully forged w/ WAP mach 1 block bored .020 over.
9.6:1 CR
Comp Cams stage 2 blower cams
Posi ported eaton with stock TB and plenum
2.76 upper and 4 lb metco lower
stock fuel rails, 60 lb injectors
-8 AN fuel line
Twin Ford GT Pumps
Dual FPDMs with dual fpdm wiring harness and relay
Fore Fuel hat w/ PPRV Delete
The tune on the car now is from when it was at nearly sea level. Ive only had it for a month at 5300 feet above sea level. Could it have something to do with the tune and the high elevation? I had planned on retuning it but not until I installed the return fuel system and a 150 shot wet nitrous kit......
Please help!! I need this fixed ASAP! Thanks
I replaced the timing cover gasket, put everything back together and she started up and ran fine. No more leaks at all by the way so that was a success at least........However, I drove it about 4 miles to a gas station to fill her up and then it wouldn't start after putting gas in. It would turn over but not start. Turns out I have zero fuel pressure again. I hooked up the spare, nice and cool, FPDMs that ive been running around with.........same issue. I have a fuse that runs on its own line near the battery under the hood. I checked it and it was blown. Replaced the fuse and the car started up but now it wont hold idle.............:bash: It will die immediately if I take my foot off the gas. So im thinking IAC Valve........the fact that I got a p1504 code reinforced this. I limp the car home and clean the IAC Valve with some carb cleaner (no I didn't spray it directly into the valve). I reinstall the valve and the car starts and holds idle again. Problem solved right? Wrong.....
The next day I drive the car another 10 miles without issue. On the way back home it starts to stutter and doesn't want to go, but clears itself up once I get up to speed. Then as Im slowing down coming to a red light the car dies again. I pull over and it starts back up but AGAIN will not hold idle unless I keep my foot on the gas. Im getting code p1504 again along with FIVE other codes which were: p0171, p0174, p0325, p0330 and p1233. P0325 and P0330 im not worried about because those are knock sensor codes and this car doesn't have any (mach 1 aluminum block). Basically fuel related again, but the car is getting fuel........When I keep my foot on the gas and let it run and just hold it steady at say 1k rpm it will run all day long and gets a steady 35-40 psi of fuel pressure and it holds that even revving to 5k rpm.
So this time I went and bought a brand new IAC valve at my local Vato Zone and installed it. It didn't fix the issue. The car will still not hold idle even with a brand new IAC valve. I took the part back and got my money back. So that's where I am at right now. I cant figure this out and all I want to do is drive the damn thing reliably :shrug:
Mods list:
5.0l stroker fully forged w/ WAP mach 1 block bored .020 over.
9.6:1 CR
Comp Cams stage 2 blower cams
Posi ported eaton with stock TB and plenum
2.76 upper and 4 lb metco lower
stock fuel rails, 60 lb injectors
-8 AN fuel line
Twin Ford GT Pumps
Dual FPDMs with dual fpdm wiring harness and relay
Fore Fuel hat w/ PPRV Delete
The tune on the car now is from when it was at nearly sea level. Ive only had it for a month at 5300 feet above sea level. Could it have something to do with the tune and the high elevation? I had planned on retuning it but not until I installed the return fuel system and a 150 shot wet nitrous kit......
Please help!! I need this fixed ASAP! Thanks
