Next suspension mod - on a budget?

1st usa car

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Got some money and planning next mod -- I never drag or track -- I dont want to lower my 2011 SVTP Vert.

Like everyone w/ or w/o my bolt-on power adders - I want to put more power onto the ground and be better in the turns.

I was considering LCA relo brackets, front strut bar or rear shocks.

Currently my LCA are not pointing up and just break parallel in the correct direction --- not sure if it will be best bang for the buck at this point. Probably BMR

Front strut bar... no experience with this. Steeda I know its an easy install and not too expensive.

Changing shocks and springs together have always been an AWESOME mod --- not sure how much changing ONLY the shocks will improve a car. I was looking at QA1 or Viking for the rear... and IF needed Strange for the front.

What is the best bang for the buck mod at this point? Is there something else worth considering?
 

fullboogie

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Realistically, most of the suspension mods we do have very little effect on the street. Our cars, particularly with the engine mods you have, make so much torque on the low end that it's impossible to put it to the ground. We have similar mods, and I have BMR everywhere, drag radials, and my car blows the tires off the rims in first and second in the heat of summer. There's nothing that's going to help that.

On the track, it's a different story.
 

barspen

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Since you have BMR LCAs and Hotchkis sway bars installed, I'd look at a UCA bracket & control arm and sticky tires.

As 'fullgoogie' stated, not much else you will need for the street. I hit the road course a few times a year, so adjustable stocks and struts with CC plates get it to the next level before moving into coil-overs (typically not desirable on the street).

Strut bar would be for looks only (I have one on the way from Steeda :) )
 

1st usa car

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I do agree --I have no fairy tale dream that I will find 1st or 2nd gear entirely useful... but with every suspension mod my car is more predictable "safer" and traction has improved a lot. Is there anything feasible left to do & worth doing w/ my criteria--
 

1st usa car

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better tires are sitting in the garage -- will install them in the Spring ... trying to get some more wear out of the Good Years, they still have decent meat on them.

UCA was something I was considering but I read the install is a pain and the kit is not the cheapest... I was thinking those shocks are about the same price and simple to install -- thought they would improve things more.
 

barspen

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Negligible difference with aftermarket shocks or struts on the street, IMHO. If you did HPDE, I'd say its money well spent as you want to carve corners better. On the street, not much help.

UCA and bracket is not that bad...http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?999728-BMR-Releases-New-Product-Adjustable-Upper-Control-Arm-for-2011-Mustang-UTCA033&p=14191461&viewfull=1#post14191461

The adjustment of the Jam nut is a PITA (not gonna lie), but otherwise, its way easier than it seems. Just block off the good part of a day and make sure the fuel tank is under a 1/4 full.
 

railroad

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I installed the listed BMR parts on my 13 while stock. I noticed a significant improvement in power to the ground and control of the car, when the computer decided to give me the power and break the tires loose.
 

Sielmo

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Got some money and planning next mod -- I never drag or track -- I dont want to lower my 2011 SVTP Vert.

Like everyone w/ or w/o my bolt-on power adders - I want to put more power onto the ground and be better in the turns.

I was considering LCA relo brackets, front strut bar or rear shocks.

Currently my LCA are not pointing up and just break parallel in the correct direction --- not sure if it will be best bang for the buck at this point. Probably BMR

Front strut bar... no experience with this. Steeda I know its an easy install and not too expensive.

Changing shocks and springs together have always been an AWESOME mod --- not sure how much changing ONLY the shocks will improve a car. I was looking at QA1 or Viking for the rear... and IF needed Strange for the front.

What is the best bang for the buck mod at this point? Is there something else worth considering?

My experiences here and is not to contradict the for-mentioned. First suspension mod I did (wheel hop) was the UCA which cured my issue. I have since then added stickier tires, LCAs, relocation brackets, panhard, and FRPP springs. I still spin freely in 1st and 2nd gear but I'm noticing a firmer downward grip to power applied on the road. Overall, better road manners with these mods.
 

sleek98

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My experiences here and is not to contradict the for-mentioned. First suspension mod I did (wheel hop) was the UCA which cured my issue. I have since then added stickier tires, LCAs, relocation brackets, panhard, and FRPP springs. I still spin freely in 1st and 2nd gear but I'm noticing a firmer downward grip to power applied on the road. Overall, better road manners with these mods.

What tires are you running? We have basically the same mods and power but with bone stock suspension I sometimes hook first and dead hook second when it's warm out on nitto 555r 275/40/20s
 

Sielmo

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What tires are you running? We have basically the same mods and power but with bone stock suspension I sometimes hook first and dead hook second when it's warm out on nitto 555r 275/40/20s

You may be doing better than me on the tires/traction. I am using Continental DW Extreme. They seem compribable to the 555R with regards to the Treadware rating. I haven't ventured into the NT 05s as I'm trying to be rain tolerant. With that said based on your description, I may need to look at the 555r.
 

sleek98

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You may be doing better than me on the tires/traction. I am using Continental DW Extreme. They seem compribable to the 555R with regards to the Treadware rating. I haven't ventured into the NT 05s as I'm trying to be rain tolerant. With that said based on your description, I may need to look at the 555r.

I'm also running a taller tire so that helps with the 3.73s a bit.
 

BMR Tech 2

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Between the 3 mods you listed in the OP, I'd recommend grabbing the LCA relocation brackets, then doing a set of shocks later. At this point, your OEM shocks are probably still fine and won't need to be replaced for a bit. Strut tower brace won't give you any noticeable gain the cars handling. The LCA relocation brackets are going to be the biggest bang for your buck, hands down.
 

1st usa car

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alright - i will shop for some relo brackets.

When would be a good time to replace my shocks? and I would like to upgrade when its time --- Are the QA1 or Viking overkill? they dont seem to be too much more money and they are shiny.
 

1st usa car

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Picked up and installed UPR LCA brackets... I used the top hole, should give me some decent bite but not crazy. Finished install at night and spent the next day at the beach. Can't wait to drive her to work tomorrow.
 

PowerWheels

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I'd lower it, do a mild lower, looks great handles better. I did the FRPP springs on my 14 and am very happy.
 
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1st usa car

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I have lowered every car that I have owned --- really enjoying the freedom of not having a lowered car for the 1st time. Lowering the car is defn a way to improve the car's suspension but i will try and hold out. So, far all the mods are working well together.

Unable to fully test the LCA brackets today -- morning rain and afternoon traffic but the car had no negative feedback. No noise, vibration or indication that i changed something. Was able to get a quick pull in 3rd- felt very stable and less tire spin. Give her another try tomorrow and see if i have more free road.
 

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