Nitrous guys - help please!

[TheJeanyus]

How would a 100 shot perform with a non-ported blower w/ 2.76" upper? Will I be able to run 10's on slicks? Would I be better served to spend the money on a port and a lower?

What nitrous kit have you guys had the best luck with?

Also, what supporting mods are necessary to run a 100 shot safely?

Thanks in advance. :beer:

 

[Wishing4Cobra]

You should be able to pull off in the high 10's. I think with a Steg 4 ported and lower you should get into the 10's also. Alot of people use NOS, or ZEX brand. Most importantly you would need a tune with 100 shots (i hope you know that already), bottle warmer, purge kit, window switch.

 

[TheJeanyus]

You should be able to pull off in the high 10's. I think with a Steg 4 ported and lower you should get into the 10's also. Alot of people use NOS, or ZEX brand. Most importantly you would need a tune with 100 shots (i hope you know that already), bottle warmer, purge kit, window switch.

Yeah I know I'll need a tune. I've just never had a car with nitrous before so I didn't know if I needed anything other than what you mentioned. I guess I should have been a little more specific - do I need any fuel, spark, or engine modifications to support the nitrous?

 

[Jeremy27]

Yeah I know I'll need a tune. I've just never had a car with nitrous before so I didn't know if I needed anything other than what you mentioned. I guess I should have been a little more specific - do I need any fuel, spark, or engine modifications to support the nitrous?

The only thing other then a retune is plugs. You dont need a bottle warmer, purge kit or window switch. If you have the money and want that stuff then get it but its not needed. If you do get nitrous then get colder plugs and close the gap depending on the size of the shot(usually around .35).

 

[2004silvercobra]

port is all the time when you need it nitrous isnt but would be better for track. and nos/zex sucks do nx its proven better numbers and will work and not brake on you.

 

[RANDYRAMIREZ]

Would You Need Injectors Also Or Do U Just Make Up The Fuel With The Wet Kit. I Was Thinking Of Getting A Nitrous Kit As Well.

 

[jlauth]

NX is the way to go, and with it you should be able to punch into the 10s. That is of course if the half shafts dont snap, because of the 600+ ft-lb of torque you will have and the slicks. You may be ok with that setup for a while, but it will be volatile.

A bottle warmer is an absolute must for any nitrous system IMO, i would also choose a MSD digital window switch. They work great and there is no RPM pills that need to be installed. Purge valve is cool, but not a must.

I run s NX setup with their Gen-X 2 upgrade. It comes with all of the goodies.
You should not need injectors for this setup. The nitrous fuel solenoid tapps into the schrader valve that can be found on the front of the passenger side fuel rail. A boost a pump may be required to achieve adequate fuel pressure.

Good luck you car is gonna be fast.

 

[jlauth]

The only thing other then a retune is plugs. You dont need a bottle warmer, purge kit or window switch. If you have the money and want that stuff then get it but its not needed. If you do get nitrous then get colder plugs and close the gap depending on the size of the shot(usually around .35).

I assume that he has some TR6's as the car sits. Considering he is running a 2.76 pulley. And yes a window switch and bottle warmer are a must.

 

[03whipedsnake]

never had nitrous either whats the purpose of the window switch ?

 

[PistolWhip]

The only thing other then a retune is plugs. You dont need a bottle warmer, purge kit or window switch. If you have the money and want that stuff then get it but its not needed. If you do get nitrous then get colder plugs and close the gap depending on the size of the shot(usually around .35).

This is some bad advice. #1 Your plug gap will need to be no more than .32 with that pulley and spray. Any larger and your asking for spark blow out.
#2 You need a window switch with any nitrous set up that is going on a car that has a Rev Limiter. If you tap the limiter while spraying, your going to end up with a very bad day and a lot of broken intake parts. The window switch is a MUST!
#3 As for the warmer, in order to maintain bottle pressure at levels that allow the Nitrous to do what it's supposed to do, you need a warmer. A full bottle will maintain its pressure, but one or two hits and the pressure drops off dramatically. Once it drops to below 500 psi, the remaining nitrous in the bottle is useless. You tell me, is the bottle warmer a must? Unless you like getting only half a bottle worth of Nitrous out of each fill, I'd say yes.

 

[jlauth]

The window switch grounds the nitrous system at a specific RPM, which is chosen for you application. Mine grounds the nitrous system at 3200 RPM and ungrounds the system at 6500 RPM. It in conjunction with a WOT switch make it possibe to spray nitrous only at WOT and between the RPM band of 3200-6500. The window switch is a safety feature which I would recommend to everyone with a nitrous system, that is if they are sophisticated enough to need a progressive nitrous controller.

 

[jlauth]

Everything that pistolwhip said is correct.

 

[TheJeanyus]

I know the bottle warmer and window switch are pretty much necessities. Though the kit would work without them, I'll be using both. My main question, as I said above, is whether or not I'd need injectors, a BAP, or any other mods to support it.

Also, I'm guessing a dry kit is the way to go. Am I correct?

Thanks for all th replys everyone. 600+ rwtq here I come.

 

[jlauth]

NX only sells wet kits, and that is the way that i would go, but there are mixed reviews about spraying gas through the blower. If it were my 03 cobra, and i plan to get one in a year and do similar mods i will be going with a wet kit. If on the other hand you feel that a dry kit is for you then i would go with a NOS brand kit.

I believe that a BAP is a must, but injectors are not. I know that most guys that have a ported eaton add some 60#ers, but your extra fuel with a wet kit will be added by the fuel solenoid, where as the extra fuel for a dry kit will be added by the injectors. Therefore if you go wet= BAP, and dry= BAP and injectors.

 

[voodooterminato]

dynotunenitrous.com. Great stuff at a great price!

 

[jlauth]

I have one final thing to add. When deciding between wet and dry a lot of the 03-04 cobra guys dislike wet kits, and every one of them who dislikes wet kits says "The superchargers were not designed to flow fuel" or "Fuel will puddle in the intake." (The window switch will prevent puddling)

This is true, however these Eaton superchargers were also not designed to be fitted with a 2.76,2.80, or 2.93 pulley. And i don't believe that the engineers at Eaton designed these superchargers to be ported by an outside company.

We do a lot with these cars and their parts that they were never intended to do. With that being said just make your own decision on which system you prefer (wet or dry).

Also search the blower bistro there is some good stuff in there, like this article which involves a NOS wet kit.


http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373873&highlight=nitrous

 

[black01mustang]

I may be mistaken I don't think a wetkit is as bad for the eaton as it would be for a kb/whipple because those have a teflon coating.

 

[PistolWhip]

I would address the wet vs. dry with your tuner. Some tuners have a preference and will suggest one or the other based on their tuning expertise.
However, as stated above if your running a dry kit you'll most likely need a BAP and injectors depending on the size of the shot. If your running a wet kit a BAP should be all you need. A small dry shot pre MAF may not need any added fuel upgrades. I have seen 35-50 shots pre MAF with no problems, but the 2.76 pulley may be putting you at the edge of the pumps capabilities already.