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<blockquote data-quote="NTXRockr" data-source="post: 13719211" data-attributes="member: 143742"><p>This is random, but if the tps relearn doesn't fix the problem then check your power and signal wires. I had the exact same situation happen - it would hit hard out of the hole but fall on its face before mid track. I ended up rewiring the entire kit and found that those two wires were installed backward into the relay from factory...basically, the switch was getting 30 amps and the solenoid only 5 amps. </p><p></p><p>Long story short, the nitrous solenoid doesn't get enough power and doesn't stay open, whereas the fuel solenoid (it only needs 5 amps) stays open and enriches the motor and it falls on its face. On the flip side, the switch and anything wired in series with it are getting 30 amps and can be overloaded...I kept popping 30 and 40 amp fuses and couldn't figure out why, even caused my window switch to literally catch on fire. I'm lucky it didn't burn the car to the ground.</p><p></p><p>On a side note, I strayed away from the tps/window switch after this incident and used a handheld launch control button. Good thing about it is its on only when you push it (so no worries about nitrous activating when going wot in the window range while trying to pedal the car if it gets loose down track) but bad part is you can activate too low on rpm and get a backfire (and possibly destroy your intake manifold). I run a boss mani so I hit it a split second after launch, so around 2200 or so...best bet it 2500+. I prefer the handheld or microswitch method over tps, but may have to go back to it to run a second stage or use a progressive controller.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="NTXRockr, post: 13719211, member: 143742"] This is random, but if the tps relearn doesn't fix the problem then check your power and signal wires. I had the exact same situation happen - it would hit hard out of the hole but fall on its face before mid track. I ended up rewiring the entire kit and found that those two wires were installed backward into the relay from factory...basically, the switch was getting 30 amps and the solenoid only 5 amps. Long story short, the nitrous solenoid doesn't get enough power and doesn't stay open, whereas the fuel solenoid (it only needs 5 amps) stays open and enriches the motor and it falls on its face. On the flip side, the switch and anything wired in series with it are getting 30 amps and can be overloaded...I kept popping 30 and 40 amp fuses and couldn't figure out why, even caused my window switch to literally catch on fire. I'm lucky it didn't burn the car to the ground. On a side note, I strayed away from the tps/window switch after this incident and used a handheld launch control button. Good thing about it is its on only when you push it (so no worries about nitrous activating when going wot in the window range while trying to pedal the car if it gets loose down track) but bad part is you can activate too low on rpm and get a backfire (and possibly destroy your intake manifold). I run a boss mani so I hit it a split second after launch, so around 2200 or so...best bet it 2500+. I prefer the handheld or microswitch method over tps, but may have to go back to it to run a second stage or use a progressive controller. [/QUOTE]
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